yes some are open back up tomorrow but then close for new year. so garage cantget the parts in to fix it and shops cant get the parts ordered in then shipped back out in time. i just cant win lol.
sorry i missed you post must have jumped past it sorry, i have just read that and to be honest i don't understand it
OK, let me try to explain it again. If you take a wire from the battery red terminal to the spade terminal contact where the wire from the CDI unit normally goes on the coil (there's usually only one wire), you are energising the coil. If you earth the spark plug against the frame of the bike then quickly remove the 12v from the coil, the sudden drop in voltage should cause the plug to spark if the coil is OK. Putting 12v on and taking off 12v from that terminal should reliably produce a spark at the plug. What you are doing is simulating a set of contact breaker points on an older bike and bypassing the CDI unit to directly test the coil. If the plug sparks, then you need to test the CDI unit that feeds the coil. This is working backwards from the spark plug to find out where the problem lies. Has that explained it any better?
i have 3 wires going to my ignition coil. the wires i have going to it are red, green and i think blue, they all connect through a block connector. this is what mine looks like, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GILERA-DNA-50-CDI-UNIT-COIL-ALL-YEARS-/380602562130 as you can see it has 3 spade connections
OK, now I see what you mean. The red wire is permanent live 12v, green is earth and blue is the signal wire from the CDI. I would try a wire poked into the connector where the blue wire is and take that to 12v live by touching the red terminal. It should spark as you take the wire away from the red terminal. You should be able to do this with the block connector still in place.
ok great thank you, i just wish 1 of you guys was local to birmingham im sure the bike would have been sorted ages ago
Hi sut, i'm out of surgery now and back home, everything went well. How about I come and collect you and the bike on monday morning and we bring it back to the workshop so we can get it running properly for the lad?
no none at all. i have someone coming to help me with the bike tomorrow though so i am leaving it alone, i will let the expert have a look as i am sure if i mess with it anymore i am likely to create more issues.
Ok, so as some of you know i have sut's dna in my garage now to try and sort the running problems out. Managed to get it running late last night, after sorting out the lack of vacuum, Stripped and cleaned the carb, changed the fuel tap, got enough vac to get some fuel upto the carb and start it. Wasn't happy with the pump, seemed to not clear the air out of itself properly, clear fuel lines are a godsend sometimes, even after priming the main line with a syringe. So this morning have changed the fuel pump for a temp one off a sym jet. Now i've got a good supply up to the carb. Got to go back to the vacuum tap though; It'll run and idle quite nicely for now, still some tweaking (not twerking) to do with the settings, but the main thing is that when you rev the bike, it sucks fuel up to the carb through the vacuum pipe! And then obviously it dies a death instantly. So i think under increased vacuum it is drawing fuel past the diaphram. Heyho, off to drain the tank again.....such a bitch on these dna's.
You da man! Hope I get as skilled as you wiv scooters!- old minis easy ( part from bodywork!) but scooters..
electric fuel pumps off old ford orions are a god send sometimes. Tank drained, tap replaced, now the proof of the pudding.
That seems to have done it! No fuel in vacuum line, Revs ok, hangs a a bit higher than i usually like, but will play with that.
lovely, changed main jet to 60 from 80 due to new standard exhaust, thanks sut for the info after the phone call, holds revs now at full throttle.