The crank housing are a right state from a poor rebuild
Had tons if metal chunks etc
So im planning on smoothing them out fitting new bearings crank water pump and nice think sealant beed
Will this work ??
Use plenty of "liquid gasket" on the case faces, obtainable from any good bearing supplier, work's great just like factory sealer.
What about the rough suface and indents along the bottom would it be ok for me to smooth ?? What tool would be best
Have you rebuilt this twice now on those cases ? From the damages visible, it seems like those marks will create no issues, like MARSH said, the gasket sealant will be fine. I dont see why it would trash again ?
Maybe the crankshafts flywheels could be too big ? Heat expansion and all that, maybe....
No ive only replace the 70kit and the guy im sorting it for Brought it with a rebuild done aprently so this is what ive found after strip down the pic of bits are the new stuff for the cases
Everything is standard aprat from 70kit rollers exhaust
Now gonna have heavy duty bearings racing crank
Could be anything all I know is once I put ut all back together it should be fine
Fingers crossed it gets back up and running, those dna's are a nice bike, dont see too many anymore !
Na you dont that why I wana get this sorted
Also it had face lift model farings
I never even knew there were a facelift model, what year did this happen ?
Well it's a 2002 and I was told had all the new model panels so pass I prefer my runner sp 125 tbh but as you say not many if these around
Ill get few pics later for ya
So ive skimmed over to top with a dremel witch now gives me a clean surface I also went over quickly with a brass wheel to polish it up a tad
So now what recommend way to rebuild ie put bearings in etc u was good gonna make sure tons of 2t oil ib every thing?
Well, not tons of it. But obviously anything which moves, you want enough lubrication to handle the initial filling of the carburettor, along with the firing.
Premix to whatever ratio the kit tells you to in the instructions. Allow to fully warm through etc etc. You know the score.
Its been a while and the dna anit pre mix its off oil pump ? Im gonna use Castrol racing oil
You still need to chuck some oil in the fuel. Practically all bores ive seen have specified you must mix oil in with the fuel aswell, to aid the break in procedure.
Many people have many different views on this, me personally, i follow the book.
Ahh ok ill see if the owner has the box still
See what it says on that
Im gonna strip rear disc off check gears change oil also once ive rebuilt this no harm in looking
The amount you mix typically speaking will only be like 10ml per litre, for example a full 6 litre tank will have 60mls of oil for the bore.
I dont see why not if it has been standing for some time, but if it aint broke dont fix it.
Use an high pressure airline to blow all the cases/bearing/piston/barrel etc, pop the crank in the freezer over night, when ready to build heat the case halves with a hot air gun until they start to smoke (obviously not melting), when hot drop the new bearings in, carry on heating cases/bearings but don't over heat bearing then put a little oil on them then a good amount of liquid gasket sealer on both case halves. while heating the cases give someone in the house a shout to bring the crank out the freezer, I prefer to fit the crank to the r/h case first (it should drop straight in the bearing) then quickly fit the r/h case to l/h case, you may need to pull the crank in a little to the l/h case using variator spacer/washers DO NOT HAMMER THE CRANK IN!! Once it's in bolt it all up snug make sure it spins freely by hand if not give the crank a little tap either side (copper mallet) to true it up or pull it through a little more. once cooled fit seals and build it up.
Correct me if i've missed a step.
Use an high pressure airline to blow all the cases/bearing/piston/barrel etc, pop the crank in the freezer over night, when ready to build heat the case halves with a hot air gun until they start to smoke (obviously not melting), when hot drop the new bearings in, carry on heating cases/bearings but don't over heat bearing then put a little oil on them then a good amount of liquid gasket sealer on both case halves. while heating the cases give someone in the house a shout to bring the crank out the freezer, I prefer to fit the crank to the r/h case first (it should drop straight in the bearing) then quickly fit the r/h case to l/h case, you may need to pull the crank in a little to the l/h case using variator spacer/washers DO NOT HAMMER THE CRANK IN!! Once it's in bolt it all up snug make sure it spins freely by hand if not give the crank a little tap either side (copper mallet) to true it up or pull it through a little more. once cooled fit seals and build it up.
Correct me if i've missed a step.
Do everything that man said
