Yamaha Neos 50cc build

You could always go with a smaller speedo like this one, in mph obviously:



If you're going for the twin headlight setup, and it's the ones I'm thinking about, same as I've fitted to various 600 bandits, it might fit in the top of the headlight cowl behind the headlight glass.
You'll have to cut the hole obviously, but if you do the same on the other headlight bowl you could have the rev counter in that one.
Again, add a couple of colured led's for idiot lights.

 

I've already bought the speedo so that's the one I'm using for now and whilst it looks like it might fit in place of the glass on one of the headlights it's way too big to fit in the back. Down on the left like on the harley could be the way to go though, plus it's not so prominent that if it's not got a super pretty back on it, it won't be that noticable (vs up on the bars where it'd be very visible). I'll have to mock it up and see but I think down on the left will be the way to go. Plus there'll be a fairing bar in exactly that area to mount it on. #winning

The indicators (see 2nd post for pic) should be mounted horizontally facing out on the bracket which holds the headlights so there should be a nice cluster of chrome in that area.

below: crappy ascii diagram of the headlights & indicators, as seen from the front

o-|OO|-o

 

had a pretty productive afternoon today, got the recessed section done on the cross-beam and got that tacked onto the frame. Also got the fairing bars cut and tacked together. Miraculously despite not having a single truly flat surface to work on it all seems pretty square and looks like it'll fit nicely \o/

Next I just need to tweak the angle of the fairing-bar faces which meet the cross-beam so that they mate up snugly, then cut the brace to link it to the stem (see last pic for how it should look). I've not tried the plasma cutter yet but it looks like should be plenty of fun .

 

today was mostly brought to us by plasma cutting..got the front brace/bracket cut & shaped, which meant I could tack the fairing bars in place. I'm pretty pleased with how it came together and it looks like the lights should fit nicely into the mix.

Re the speedo/tach I tried it on the side as discussed but wasn't really feeling it. However it looks like I can extend the rectifier bracket upwards and mount it on there and it should be pretty well placed..easy to see from the riding position yet out of the way of the bars. #win.

The speedo and headlight brackets are cut but not cleaned up yet, hoping to get them done tomorrow.

Seeing the fairing bars in place I think I'll extend the bars rearwards and have them bend in to meet the frame which will give a nice place for feet, perhaps with some checkerplate on top to bring it all together.

I'm wondering about adding a cross bar as reinforcement since I have a feeling the stretched rear end might put extra load on that part of the frame. I've seen them on a few scoots and reckon it should help keep things solid. There's nowhere ideal on the frame to join it to though (i.e. at the seat end of it) so will need to add something sturdy. Should be doable tho.

If the air-ride only ends up needing one tank then it might just fit slung below the cross-bar. If it needs two tanks then they'll probably get tucked inside the fairing bars. I'll know more once the pneumatic ram arrives and can mock up the system.

 

just got the tyre fitted onto the rim - was a super tight fit and quite a tense fitting (as far as tyre fittings go). Even using the tyre machine it was a struggle to get on and it needed helping with levers, but we got there in the end. I think this was the first time my local tyre place had done a stretched tyre but they were happy to have a go and seemed to enjoy the challenge and something a bit different . Most importantly we got there without any marks on the rim \o/

I love how it sits on the rim, it actually looks better than I'd hoped - it's got a real nice lip on it, the stretch is perfect and the tread pattern suits it well too. Can't wait to see it on the bike

Now that i've got a tyre & rim I can start to figure out the offset needed and build the hub adapter, and then the actual frame to give it the stretch and re-centre the new wider wheel.

I think I have the consumables & process figured out for welding the particular types of steel involved and by some happy coincidence the hub adapter even fits inside the rear brake shoes without needing machining down..so we *should* be all systems go. happy days

 

managed to squeeze in some quality shed-time this pm, got the speedo/tach bracket cleaned up and the headlight brackets cleaned up and shaped to fit the fairing bars. Hopefully get them fitted and welded on tomorrow.

 

So a slight miscalculation re the indicators meant I had to re-make the headlight brackets but I got them done and tacked in place and it all fits pretty well now. Headlights and indicators are now in place \o/

The speedo bracket went on no problems (on the rectifier mount) and seems to be easily visible from the riding position which is good. I had to relocate the rectifier to a handy bracket which was behind the stem but otherwise stuff is pretty much all where it needs to be now and ready to have the wiring sorted out. I'm not really a fan of wiring but at least there's not that many wires to deal with on a scoot so I can sorta get my head around it...way easier than a car loom which just gives me "dog head".

Given that all the bits seem to have ended up in the same general area I think I may go with running wires through the main frame tubes after all, though haven't decided where best to make the holes for that in a way which doesn't compromise frame strength and doesn't allow excessive moisture ingress, but I'm sure all will become clear in due course. The wires will only go inside the frame once I've done the final welding and sprayed the frame so there's plenty of time to figure that stuff out.

I can't speak for performance gains since I've not actually ridden it properly yet but the new pipe sounds way better than the stock one

It's actually starting to look like a bike now and I'm liking it more every day. Can't wait to ride it

 

Pneumatic ram for the air ride turned up today..looks pretty decent & sturdy. I'll need a few fittings but then can start to mock up the air ride system .

As it stands it looks to have a bigger cylinder bit than the original shock so who knows, maybe the air cushion in the cylinder will be enough by itself, rather than it having to work alongside the original shock. The fronts will probably be better off as a "piggyback" setup though.

 

Started sorting out the wiring today and plumbing in the aftermarket controls. So far we have indicators, starter, horn and running lights. Am just in the process of figuring out the headlights atm but so far so good. I'm just doing "mock up" wiring for now and will tidy it all up later once it's all actually working. I didn't melt anything in the process (so far) so I'm counting that as a win.

When investigating the main fuse I was delighted to find someone had just bridged the contacts with a bit of wire..bodgetastic! Now it's got a 13 amp household fuse in there instead which is the closest I could find which actually fitted.

Along the way I've also been replacing the miscellaneous (rusty) botls with stainless allen bolts where possible so hopefully no more rusting.

 

Got the headlights wired up properly today - now the running lights come on automatically when the engine is running and the main dip/beam are switchable separately (when the ignition is on). From a power consumption/charging pov I'd prefer if the running lights went off when the headlights were on but that would likely involve relays which I've not found space to stash neatly yet. Perhaps that will come with time. Hopefully tomorrow I can start to wire up the speedo (*lots* of wires).

The wiring still needs a fair bit of "optimising" yet since many of the cables are way too long but I'll wait till it's all working as it should be before embarking on that. Measure twice, cut once and all that.

I'm soon going to have to try and fit the pieces of the "rear hub adapter puzzle" together. At this point I know I need to shave a little bit off the intermediate/spacer pipe which bridges the splined wheel core to the mini drive-flange where the wheel mounts on, and I currently have no idea how to do that without a lathe (which I don't have). I'm hoping freezing & heating the inner & outer components and a hydraulic press will get me some of the way there but I doubt it'll be enough without a little machining too.

Unless I can come up with an ingenious solution I guess I'll have to get local machine shop to trim it down a bit. I'm also hoping the wheel offset will work with the splined wheel core otherwise it'll all be for naught.

Hopefully I should get an idea of whether/how-well that'll work in the next few days when I can offer it all up and see how it fits in practice. It's getting to crunch time so watch this space...

 

Is that a bronco in the background?

 

lol no tho it is a mk2 golf 4x4 which is getting some underbody reinforcements for going off road. it's on ramps atm hence the front end height. I think it would like being mistaken for a bronco tho, I'll tell it you said so

 

Is it running a g60? Please tell me it is

 

sadly not a g60, they only came as LHD and this is a RHD version which is bizzarrely quite a lot rarer than the G60s now (only 32 left i think). It has however got a 16v/KR engine swapped in though so should be a lot of fun

 

Got the speedo somewhat wired up today. It actually lights up which is a good start, got the indicators, headlight icons and whatnot wired up too. So far not as much of a headf**k as I thought it would be. Though the tricky bits are really still to come so there's plenty of time for me to eat those words

Scuba - you said you'd wired a similar speedo into an aerox before - do you recall whether you were able to use the standard speedo hub thingy or did you need to use the one which came with the gauge? Also any clue as to how to deal with the tacho? The instructions are a little thin on details and fairly "chinglish". I'm guessing it needs some sort of signal from the ignition - something to do with the orange wire which goes to the coil perhaps?

 

sym jet 100s take a signal from the coil pulse and feed it through a resistor to the tacho.
i think they like the TT trails taking a signal pluse from either the ht lead ( not so ideal) or more so the coil itself .

 

thanks tamiya, so by 'coil pulse' do you mean the thin wire which goes to the coil or something else?

Surely if taking a pulse from the ht lead that would happen by induction wouldn't it?..like the bit you clip onto the ht lead on a timing light for a car motor

sorry if I'm being dense..)

 

yeah the tacho's tend to be induction,

some use the HT lead as the induction pulse, others request you hook the wire to the coil positive side ( im sure i steve mention this to someone else about fitting a tacho not using the HT lead but the coil feed instead ), and chinglish sucks i have had a few chinglish manuals in my time lol they end up in the bin with the product lol

 

aha thanks that makes sense I think, thanks

I also just found a link to a youtube video for the product which seems to cover this in a bit more detail...



and follow-up...whcih now actually leaves me more confused...



So in summary i think if not going induction, to potentially connect tacho wire here, since I don't really see where else the "pulse" would be going, otherwise go induction round the HT lead:

 

yeah that orange wire from cdi is the trigger , i would say your hooking to that orange wire and getting the pulse feed from that. the video he hooks to a blue wire ( thats his trigger wire that goes to pulse generator / coil ), i wouyld see what scuba/steve says just to be sure