Yamaha Neos 50cc build

You should do a thread about the stunt bike too...

 

but it's not a scooter?

 

Geared bike section...

 

oh right - didn't know about that, doh! Figured is wasn't a scooter so not the right place for it. I've been mostly documenting the R125 build/mods on my site & youtube tho, with some bits on the r125 forum too recently

 

Hellos ... Love this stretched project and am basicly about to attempt the same but with a differant donor bike.. a boatian 50 cc... its some nasty little chinese mickey mouse wanna be scooter. Why did i choose this one ? cos ive got everything inhouse. Plus i think the frame has potential ..its got a standard gy6 10 inch motor. Which leads me to my question. whats the distance between the drive shaft and the back end of the motor block on the minelli that uve used ? ive done the maths and keep coming up with the tire will rub against the back end of the motor block if i go for a 10 inch by 5 inch mini type rim. help !!
greetings andy

 

>> Love this stretched project and am basicly about to attempt the same but with a differant donor bike.. a boatian 50 cc... its some nasty little chinese mickey mouse wanna be scooter. Why did i choose this one ? cos ive got everything inhouse. Plus i think the frame has potential ..its got a standard gy6 10 inch motor.

heya, good luck with the project. FWIW i don't think there's much by way of "standard way of doing things" wiht this, but if you don't already follow them, check out scooterswapshop on youtube - he's done a few fatty builds, even some twin cylinder beasts, and has loads of really good info. I was pleased to see they did the wheel fitting the same way I did wiht the shaved-down standard rear wheel as a hub. https://www.youtube.com/user/scooterswapshop

rolling wrench is also worth a look, has done some cool builds along these lines:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4gAEMGlKwgQtHAQUp_1fvw

>> Which leads me to my question. whats the distance between the drive shaft and the back end of the motor block on the minelli that uve used ? ive done the maths and keep coming up with the tire will rub against the back end of the motor block if i go for a 10 inch by 5 inch mini type rim. help !!

I don't know the distance but have made a note to measure it next time I can.

in hindsight idk if the mini rim was necessarily the smartest way to go. It worked but there may have been other options which had less offset.It depends on your available patience and access to machining I guess. There was no real pre-trodden path with the neos that I could find though so i got a lathe and made a path, whereas with a gy6 you might have more options since isn't that what the ruckus has? (idk much about them so this may be innacurate if the swingarms are all different).. for example some of these might be an easier fit or may prompt ideas: https://theruckshop.com/product-category/wheels-rims/

whilst those particular wheels are crazy expensive I'm sure there's similar ones which are less fancy/cnc'd and don't cost as much, point is look at the bit where it bolts on. It's much slimmer than somethign like my mini rim which is maybe 1-1.5" thick at the bolt holes. Yes it's probably stronger but that thickness plus your adapter all adds to your "forced" offset, and pushes the wheel closer to the exhaust mounts and not-fitting, so needs thniking about. You may end up with a machining bill further down the line because of which wheel you ended up using (e.g modifying casings and correcting offset in the stretch frame vs machining/buying different hub/wheel combos).

If it's a really short swingarm you could possibly look at atv, golf cart or even trailer wheels which I think tend to be the more 10" range but there you'd likely need to shave down a (scooter) back wheel on a lathe like I did and then drill & tap it for your bolt pattern, though i *think* they tend to be thinner "plate" type mounting rather than the thicker "cast" ali like on my mini rim.

I think the mini rim is 6x12" but memory may be failing me there. I just checked and it's got a 120x70x12" conti twist streeetched on it (was pretty tight though). It's in my youtube scooter videos - i think part 3 covers the back wheel mounting in more detail and shows the clearance with the wheel vs the hub/adapter thickness:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLFlbA6WoZEkrZCaDDadJ7y5QefH5CX60r

hope that helps

 

I have an atv wheel outside if you need the measurements...

 

yep helps alot !!! machining wise... not a problem my old boss has a whole factory complete with CNC.s .. and hes very helpfull .. paybak for all the years i worked for him i think. Yes your right the ruckus has a gy6 as well. Ive looked at off the shelf wheel and machined hubs.from the states. but the prices scared the crap outta me. wheels in 1000 dollar prices and machined hubs for 300 ish. thats why im gonner go for the cheaper alternative a mini wheel. Ive found a place in the uk in leeds ( force racing) ..that can make a mini wheel in the style and to the specs i want with what ever offset Its a 3 peice wheel so depending on what inner and outter rims u go for you can adjust the offset. looked at some trailer and ATV wheels but ? dont like the styles, im taking the same attitude lines as u... if your gonner doing something do it well
watched all your clips on youtube thats how i clocked on your on this forum as well.
So far ive learned that the shaved ex wheel/ new hub way .. is the way to go.. Im also considering the shave off the exhaust attatchment point on the motor block as an option as well. It clears alot of room

Oh i have worked out and measured that the max wheel dia i can go for is 480 mm .. a radius of higher than 240 mm axil to back of motorblock could drop me in a world of pain.

thanks for the reply... Greetings Andy

 

oh cool, sounds like you're in a good position then re the machining. I got in a bit over my head without realising it, had to work to catch up

3-piece rim sounds ideal tbh as far as offset etc goes, good thinking! With a bit of luck that should mean you can minimise any additional offset and keep the wheel within the roundy bit it's supposed to go in, rather than mashing into your exhaust mounts.

Idk what's possible there but if they could do negative offset (or positive, dependign on how you measure) I wonder if you could keep the wheel central (i.e. same centreline as original, just wider rim) and eliminate the need to offset the motor in the stretch frame? That would have to be a good thing and would likely simplify things re the actual stretch.

>> watched all your clips on youtube thats how i clocked on your on this forum as well.

oh awesome, glad they were helpful

 

They may have been helpfull to me.... but your not in the mrs good books at the moment lol

 

lol oops. [ducks and covers]

 

measured the thing earlier... hope this makes sense. The 22cm is to the hanger, though the tyre is not a lot smaller than that. Sizes only approximate:



hopefully this shows what I meant about using the custom ET/offset to potentially correct the track. idk what their limits are.

Also these guys had some nice stuff, and were happy to drill things for a specific bolt pattern if you ask nicely..

https://www.steadygarage.com/store/chimera-unlimited-yamaha-zuma-125-rear-drum-hub

 

Corona bites !.... I work in health over here in holland but doing coaching from a distance. So ? time to burn... starting to do a mockup of how low how long ect... working out stuff for wheres the shock bracket ect is gonner go... but im looking for that stretched ruckus look without it being ruckus. last foto is what im aiming for.... cheers for the site had a butchers !!!

 

How did u get on with that air shock ?

 

would probably have been better off with something like an air-ride bellows. Not enough cross section on the plunger part with the arrangement I had (even with 3x pistons). It sorta worked in the end but relied on super high pressures (150+psi) which i wasbn't happy with and took ages to achieve. Bigger cross section (air ride bellows), less pressure needed, happy days.

I'd also try and keep the suspension (i.e. shock absolrber movement/range) separate from the air-up/down if doing it over again