Yamaha Neos 50cc build

Discussion in 'Scooter Projects' started by BunnyMum, Jan 23, 2017.

  1. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum Active Member

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    170
    20170123_161204_www.jpg

    The fat back wheel from the "stretched fatty" ruckus scooters is what got me into this project, so I guess this it's as good a place as any to start this project thread.

    This gorgeous wheel finally arrived and is the piece of the puzzle I've been waiting for to start actually putting the new rear end of my scoot together. tbh it's a lot prettier than the scooter itself at this point, which is mostly just a mess of frame and wires but hopefully that should change too shortly.

    So far it's been a lot of measuring, maths and buying parts "blind" and hoping they'll fit together in real life...and actually so far it looks like they might. There's still a couple of things which might yet trip it up but fingers crossed and welder-permitting we might be ok.

    The broad strokes of the plan are: fat back wheel & stretch, red on black (frame) with chrome/polished trimmings & some sort of air-ride, maybe a bit of pinstriping or custom paint, depending on how much surface area I have to play with. This 12x6 wheel on the back running a stretched 130/70 with a similarly finished 6-spoke aerox wheel on the front so it all matches.

    Initially it'll just stay stock 50cc since that's all I can ride on my car license and it'll let me get used to being back on 2 wheels, but once I've got my CBT I can either make the 50cc fast(er) or put a 125 in there...though tbh this is more about fun and building something cool/different to cruise around locally than speed since that itch is already pretty well scratched with my car projects.

    The fairing was all mashed up on my scoot when I got it so I've pulled all that off and am going for a more "naked" front end, downhill bars, aftermarket dial, controls etc but with some additional pipework (crash-bar stylee) to mimic the original lines of the fairing and add a bit of leg protection and potentially house the air tank/s. I'm waiting on the bends for those frame mods atm but will post pics once the fun starts there...

    More as I have it, watch this space :)

    BM
     
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  2. torpedo01

    torpedo01 Active Member

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    500
    Rides:
    Pedal Bike M8
    Going to be keeping an eye on this one :cool:
     
  3. Stevep

    Stevep Well-Known Member

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    4,295
    A street drag neos hmmmmm....................

    Malossi iron head 70 or 80 kit
    Multivar vario
    Malossi MHR race pipe
    Adjustable clutch
    Kevalr clutch slippers
    Kevlar belt
    21mm dellorto
    Double foam filter

    Thoughts abound:rolleyes:
     
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  4. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum Active Member

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    170
    Street drag is an interesting direction, though then I guess you'd want to keep it as light as possible, which I've not really been doing so far...maybe for the next one though :)
     
  5. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

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    5,065
    Ive never seen a 2 stroke in that style before, this will be good
     
  6. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum Active Member

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    170
    Since I'm still waiting on pipe bends I figured I'd post some pics of the bits which are waiting to go on and what's been done so far...

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    new bars, stem and multifunction speedo/tach

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    the speedo - and what it should look like when lit up. Should do fuel level, indicators etc etc as well as tacho + speedo..but whether it actually will is anyone's guess at this point.

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    these plugs look like they should fit something standard - if anyone knows what the connector name/type is so I can wire up a nice plug rather than hacking wires directly please let me know :)

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    The new headlight. Possibly a bit much for the charging system but I guess we'll see.

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    indicators to be mounted on the "fairing bars"

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    aerox 6-spoke front wheel to be refinished the same as the new rear wheel (polished & cleared w black rearside).

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    The new rear hub assembly (hopefully) - drive flange is from a mini classic. The thinner steel bar should bridge the gap between the splined hub/centre (which has yet to be extracted from the current rear wheel) and the drive flange. The 22mm socket for the rear hub-nut neatly fits inside the mini drive flange, so it looks like I should be able to adjust the offset for the rim as needed.

    Hopefully I'll be able to shrink fit or press it in and then weld the whole shebang together for added security. I'm hoping the mini flange won't need machining down to fit inside the brake shoes but I guess we'll see when it all goes together - there's plenty of material there in case it does need to be turned down. The large pipe is due to be precision cut on a lathe (so it's properly square) and then welded to the back of the drive flange, to form the new rear brake drum. I may wrap the large pipe with stainless so it stays shiny and looks nice, though atm the priority is getting it to work. Going to be a challenging combo of steels to weld together correctly but I *think* i've figured it out.


    20161230_134201_www.jpg
    This is probably the best pic of the bike as I got it with the front end plastics stripped off

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    Mock up for roughly how the "fairing bars" should go. The bottom of the vertical pipe will bend rearwards to meet the square cross-member which should mean it follows the lines of the frame better than in this pic. The steel mounts for the plastics (under that square bar) are somewhat bent on the left side so I'll probably just shave them off altogether and add a new box-section cross piece which the fairing bars will butt up to. I may carry the fairing bar theme on further rearward but need to get the front bit sorted first.

    Since getting it I've stripped all the front plastics, fitted the correct fork & front axle, unwrapped the wiring loom so I can figure out what's what and then either hide the wires in the frame, some stainless "shower hose" type stuff or just re-wrap them properly (was utter bodge job). I've also replaced the starter relay, made the brakes work and generally bolted things together properly and made things work more like they should.

    I'm hoping to get the bends for the fairing bars any day now and they're really the next step since the headlight, indicators etc will all be fitted to them. They should go across the front of the neck/stem as per the mock-up and I'll plasma cut a pair of little brackets out of thick sheet and weld that to the neck for a nice solid join. The indicators should go on the fairing bars somewhere and there should be enough space in the gaps to sneak a couple of small air cylinders and gubbins in for the air-ride bits, tho that's still largely theoretical at this point.

    *If* I can figure out the air stuff I'd like to have the it adjust ride height (primarily rear but both if possible) and perhaps also operate the stand...i.e. either an air-operated stand or (nicer option) lay frame when parked..though that will obvs depend on the type of actuator I end up using.

    The wider rear wheel will mean that whatever exhaust I end up using I'll likely have to cut up so it fits round the rear wheel but hopefully as long as it's done carefully and all the pipe lengths are kept consistent for the expansion chamber it shouldn't affect performance particularly. Still - the idea of buying a nice shiny new performance pipe and hacking it up right out of the box is a bit *eek* ;)
     
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  7. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

    Messages:
    5,065
    For that light, use LED bulbs... Minimal power draw...
    Ive fitted a similar speedo to an aerox before, it took a bit of fettling and head scratching...
    You should run the wiring inside the frame, plenty of room in there.
     
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  8. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum Active Member

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    170
    good idea re the LEDs - that'll work better :)

    re the speedo - did you find a plug to fit or did you end up having to hack the wires up directly?

    re the wires in the frame - you're probably right, it would be the nicest solution though I might wait till it's all working properly first otherwise that could get annoying really quickly. If the fairing pipes end up running further back than just the front bit then I think they would be an easy (and non-structural) place to run the wires. I'm a bit reluctant to start cutting holes in the main frame tubes..
     
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  9. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

    Messages:
    5,065
    Ive forgotten in all fairness, but i think i made up wiring plugs, i worked in a main dealer so we had all the yam plug things
     
  10. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum Active Member

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    170
    just found the connectors on ebay \o/
     
  11. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum Active Member

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    170
    bends finally turned up \o/

    and I seem to have acquired a yamaha jog donor bike..it has a tecnigas exhaust, apparently a mallosi 70cc kit and a few other bits I was after so figured I'd have what I want off it and part out the rest. at least I won't have to cut up a brand new exhaust now.

    I now sorta see how people end up with a collection of bikes now...:oops:
     
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  12. Stevep

    Stevep Well-Known Member

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    4,295
    and bits that sit on the shelf for years until you have a harsh clear-out;)
     
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  13. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum Active Member

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    170
    few little updates yesterday. Got the jog 6-spoke front wheel off scooter #2 (jog) and fitted to #1 (neos), at which point we learnt about the width differences between the neos and jog (jog is about an inch narrower), so had to put a set of jog forks on too so it all fitted properly.

    Got the new stem and bars on - the bars are a bit taller than I was after which means the front brake hose is a bit of a stretch currently. I might go for a set of mountain bike bars with slightly less rise and a bit less width but it's still progress. Alternatively with the stretch & lowering it might make sense to move the riding position back a bit so it's less "sit up and beg" and more "chopper/lowrider". we'll see how it develops I guess.

    Also transferred the sports exhaust from the jog/#2 to the neos/#1. It fitted pretty well, sounds a bit nicer and is way lighter than the oem pipe.

    #2/jog does seem to have an iron cylinder rather than ali so the mention of malossi 70cc kit may be correct but I couldn't get it running. It seemed like it was close and there was fuel getting to the cylinder (plugs was wet) and some spark (albeit weak) but I've not downloaded the service manual for the jog yet and it's a little bit different from the neos so will have to come back to that.

    The rear wheel-nut on the jog seems to be seized which is annoying..impact wrench normally makes light work of any stuck bolts but it was having none of it. Even rachet with a 5-foot extension wasn't budging it. I've been putting a squirt of wd40 on a couple of times a day since then and will have at it with a torch on sunday and see if that shifts it. Otherwise I might have found the rim to destroy for the splined shaft/sleeve ;)

    This week I also had a go at swapping tyres over and whilst I managed it, i think on reflection I'll get our local tyre place to put the tyre on the nice shiny new rim as I'll almost certainly scuff it up. The rim is from a car so they should be able to fit & balance it. Once funds allow I'll pop a nice new conti-twist on it and then I can start mocking up the rear-end/stretch in earnest.

    I've also ordered a pneumatic ram to experiment with. Given it's air the movement is likely not absolute like with hydrauilcs so there should be some "play", but whether that's enough to pass as suspension I don't yet know. Once I know how it behaves I'll be able to decide how it needs rigging up for the air-ride. I suspect it might end up with the ram working in parallel to the existing shock, using the double action part of the ram to either raise or lower the ride height. Doubling up might be the way to go on the front since then the forks could go up and down too i.e. one ram "piggybacking" each fork leg, which might give it quite a nice mechanical look too, but without messing with the original setup too much.

    I thought there was more involved with the engine/rear-swingarm mount but it literally looks to be one (long) bolt everything pivots on so given I'm stretching it anyway part of me wonders if that's the place to put the air bits for the rear - either with a small bag or a wide bore, short stroke ram.

    I think I've figured how the pipework/crash-bars/fairing-bars thing should go so next time i get a day with decent weather I'll dive into that. I reckon it'll be a full day on those though as the original fairing mounts need removing, a cross beam fitting and then the pipework fitting to that (see pic below). There should be a small but sturdy plasma cut brace joining the stem to the fairing pipes as they wrap around the front. It looks like the height there should be about right to mount the headlight so I've ordered some more sheet and will plasma some funky mounts and sticko-extra them on since there's no full-height stanchions as there would be on a normal motorbike (so I can't use the fittings it came with).

    Once the light is fitted I can start wiring it all up properly too since that's the last component I'm missing (i think).

    nobody else may be able to see it yet but I can sorta see it coming together gradually, which is kinda exciting...for now though it's still basically a mess of wires and pipes ;)

    20170202_143333a_www.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2017
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  14. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

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    5,065
    thats gonna look cool when done
     
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  15. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum Active Member

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    170
    thank you scuba, I'm hoping so too :)
     
  16. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum Active Member

    Messages:
    170
    I wasn't expecting to get to work on bikes till sunday but it was sunny and I'd finished work early last night so bonus scooter day \o/

    The wd40 trick on the rear wheel nut of scooter #2 worked - ratchet and 5 foot bar got it loose today with very little further hassle..so I'm pleased that's sorted. I had visions of having to cut it off which would have been super annoying. I think in the process I may have found my donor wheel to cut up for the centre spline bit too. I need to check it's the same thickness as the neos one but I think they are the same or close enough.

    Money permitted so as of last night we have a nice conti-twist en route for the fatty back wheel. I'm really looking forward to seeing how that looks stretched onto the new rim. gonna be sickkk ;)

    From what I could tell the conti tyres get a bit less mileage than most others but I don't do many miles and would trade grip for miles any day. I've got conti-sport 5s on my quattro and I can pull almost 1g sideways with them on roundabouts..so hopefully the scooter tyres are also pretty decent :D

    On scoot #1 (neos) I cut the existing (bent on one side) front fairing mounts off and cut the new cross-bar to fit. There was a bit of a hump in the middle from where the main down-tube goes but no biggie. It's a bit wider than it was before (18") but that seemed to be the most comfortable position for my feet so that's how it is. I will need to weld something over the hole in the middle bit so that water doesn't get up in there, which will be a lot of fiddly effort for something nobody will ever see, but I'd rather that than wet electrics further down the line.

    I also did yet more mocking up of the fairing pipework just to get an idea of the dimensions and I *think* we're good to go. Hopefully I'll get the cross bar welded on tomorrow and possibly the fairing pipework tacked together too (weather permitting).

    Coming back to it I actually quite like the riding position as it is now with the slightly taller bars. I wasn't sure if it would be too much but I think once the rear is stretched and lowered it should actually be about right.

    20170204_152212_www.jpg
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    Last edited: Feb 4, 2017
  17. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum Active Member

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    170
    One thing I've not figured out yet and am open to ideas on is what to do with the speedo/tach. I'm not really feeling it just mounted as is with a naked back..not only will it get sprayed with crap while riding but it'll look kinda meh.

    I'm trying to find something to encase the back - e.g. like a chrome headlight casing, or perhaps a piston from a car with the crown cut out. However it also needs mounting - and in a way where it can be moved so it isn't obscured by the bars (including if the bars change in future).

    I could potentially use the casing of one of the headlights but I really like the double headlight look so don't really wanna mess with that, even if it is going to be a power drain.

    I'd been wondering about mounting it this side (i.e. to the rear of) the stem so the bars' position isn't an issue but dunno about complicating that area..ideas anyone?
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2017
  18. Stevep

    Stevep Well-Known Member

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    4,295
    Officially you don't need a working speedo for the mot.
    But what about something that sits in the top of the headlight casing, like on the old english bikes?
    I saw an after market speedo this morning mounted on the side of the forks, low down from the bars.
    [​IMG]

    In this image you could use the two holes for indicator light (green led) and high beam light (blue led)
     
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  19. Stevep

    Stevep Well-Known Member

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    4,295
    This is on the Harley

    [​IMG]
     
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  20. BunnyMum

    BunnyMum Active Member

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    170
    ooh that's a cool idea! I've never seen that before, nice :) (re the speedo in rear of headlight)

    I don't think it'll work in this case because the speedo I have is quite large (~80mm at a guess) but that's definitely a super-cool solution I'll bear in mind for future builds.

    we may not need a speedo for the mot but I'm a stats-junkie so want one anyway just so I can keep an eye on things.

    EDIT: I like the harley one too.. hmm will have to have a play with it tomorrow and see where might fit. There will be bars to mount it on in about that position so that might be a good option. There's the ignition barrel on the other side and I was actually debating what to do with that so having the speedo on the left might work quite nicely and actually balance the lines rather than upsetting them, and whatever happens wiht the bars won't obstruct the speedo. nice, great idea. that might work. thank you :D
     

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