the new - what have you done to your ped today thread.

Stripped the float bowl drain plug on the Katana's dellorto carb!!!!!!!
New one one way

 

cleaned and sold it along with the rs50 and cbr600

 

Right. Just put a 108 in the carb, a stiffer spring in the rear end, stiffened up the clutch, swapped the Malossi big roller variator out and put in the Doppler SB2R - but with the widest slider- with 21 g. This should let the c16 rev to about 8000 on take off and 12000 once the variator kicks in - and keep it there till full pelt.
I happen to know that the rollers will be too light and the carb will be too rich - but you gotta start somewhere........

Although I may be spot on with the jet.........

Somebody remind me to put the coolant back into it before I test it on friday.....

 

Got it back from the garage, the air hoses was disconnection but it seemed to run perfect, should I put them back on?

 

Interesting. Maybe they modded your depression pump for you...... Photos ?
And danger. if your carb depression hole is open- it- s going to lean out your mixture something rotten. get that sorted before you ride it. And go back and bollock them.

 

the scoot is being swapped for an old 1991 honda MT50, either tomorrow or saturday...

 

photos please!

 

whoaar. That's a bit of alright. So what's the program? Porting, custom exhaust, slick tyres and some Renthals? Me likee!

 

Gave the tranny case a tush....
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13456533525/
gave the water pump a tush.....
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13456891594/
I should do some more on the exhaust.....
and learn how to take photos.
Not all the screws are in the case. i'll probably have the effing thing off ten times tomorrow when I set it up. So I put half in, alternate- to speed things up.

 

Just set the scoot up. It's rather violent! Unfortunately the crank, which suffered a bit when I popped a roller cage, appears to have developed a bit of play at the big end. If I keep caning it then it's going to fail. This unfortunately means that I have to have it out of there and put another crank in there. So the MHR case is coming apart and the new Doppler crank in there is going into the all days engine. Rats. at least I spotted in time.
Did find the C16 collector though! So I just need to swap cranks and I have a monster set up for embarrassing the bikers in a week. There's a little meeting going on.

 

it already has renthals on it! and i think it has an an aftermarker exhaust or end can aswell

 

Who wants a tutorial on complete engine rebuilds? Because it's all happening here.

 

that would actually be quite a good idea. including a bit on getting circlips in!

 

OK - here we go.

Here is the donor engine - it needs some internal things doing anyway..
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475042415/

Pipe off
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475143503/

Block off
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475382974/

Cylinder off
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475132393/

wedge off
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475370004/

ignition side
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475013395/

Flywheel off
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475360624/

extractor on
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475005815/

rotor off
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475001215/

front end
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475094483/

Top off
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13474986325/

big holes..... I was glad to note that the entire kit was impeccable - despite some thrashing.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475334604/

Just a shot of a properly flowed case. Mmmm. Nice work. I will do this for anyone - I enjoy it. The top is a bit ragged - and this is why I wanted to have it apart. That - and a longer crank......
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13474973695/
If you want to flow a case without recourse to resin, this photo tells you a lot about where to go easy......

Plate on the ignition side. We're going to heat the case on this side and then tap up on this to remove one half of the case. My home made kit. Normally you would remove the balancing shaft first, but this is not a stock motor and everything has been taken care of.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475084663/

heat. It takes about 10 minutes for best results with this gun. Blowtorches are better but this case has been resined - and resin burns if provoked. Notice how the sealant has been added on the outside of the crank seal to glue it in there. Then there's the clip over the top (removed in this photo).
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13474977275/

10 minutes later and a couple of taps - one half off.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475321614/

Now we heat the other side - with the motor (open) on wood blocks. You do not want to screw up the surfaces on the important side.....
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475318234/

A couple of taps with a pointy thing in the end of the crank (don't want to use a hammer on your nice thread - you will fuck it) and it's out. Then we put it into the extractor. All this has not hurt the crank - but that cannot be said for the bearings. Change the crank - new bearings go on.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475067063/

another look at the bearing ripper
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475062373/

Simple !
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13474952985/

Done.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475299214/
now it gets sprayed in WD 40, wrapped in clingfilm and into the freezer it goes. Overnight. And the next (and most exciting !) instalment is for tomorrow ! How to put the bearings on ! With a hammer ! Without shagging the bearings ! Lots of fun. If you like that sort of thing.....

 

I did some whapping ! Posted this on the guides section - because this is just going to get buried.
So here we go.
Your crank has spent the night in the freezer. For this you need a horse - or a plate that fits between the two rotor parts of the crank. I have mine. You must invent yours. A plate on a vice works. I have yet to find a big vice - so I improvise. You need a hammer and a pipe, and because I know a man with a lathe - a ring made of brass (because it's softer than everything else (but this is a luxury item. You don't really need it). I use a towel folded over to protect the crank - but again - this is a luxo item. You can do without it. But it holds everything still for the next bit.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13493258763/

Care for some chilli sauce with that ?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13493146025/

Now - the bearings. Lots of people say 'heat them'. I say no. And yes. Heat them to about 50 degrees in the oven - because that's what they live with every time you start the scoot. More heat will possibly result in distortion and they will wear quicker.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13493512374/

Now we get down to it. You will notice that the crank is supported and the whapping is limited to the internal surface of the bearing. The outer bit is not bearing any load during the process. This is crucial. Put your (carefully selected) pipe on there and whap that fucker on there.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13493499664/

When it's fully on, flip the crank and do the other one. Fast. The metal heats up and the hotter it gets, the harder it becomes. These bearings have identical races - so there is no 'right' or 'wrong' way. But if they are more open on one side - put the open side outwards so the oil gets in there better. Here they are - on there. Another spray with wd40 or oil and a wipe and let everything get up to ambient temperature.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13493132015/

Make sure they are fully on ! If they are not snug up to the end stop then they will be - when you tighten your case (and bend the wrist-pin in the process thus fucking your expensive crank). Whap hard and clean. The note will change when the inner race connects with the crank. If the rotor is well supported - you cannot hurt anything.

Next chapter - how to get it all back together. More fun - if you like that sort of thing (which I don't).

Right up nice and snug.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13493236853/

 

Turbo, make our lives easier and embed the pictures into the post, please!

 

I have just gone and blown the exhaust gasket, ped sounds like a rocket and backfires like crazy.

Looks like new exhaust and gaskets for me.

 

someone please help! i've had this horrible noise coming from my transmission area the past few days, here's a video.



what could it be?

 

Well my zip currently sounds like this: