Sym Jet Basix / Eurox Problems

This stupid scooter ..........

turn on lights, no low beam ..... hit high beam and it works , switch of high beam no low beam.

weird thing, side light is working - hi beam working so theres power to the switch. just replaced a perfectly fine bulb a another brand new one same thing only high beam and no low beam , yet my sidelights work and main headlight switch is being supplyed power. tried the connectors gave them all a jiggle and reseat, gave the main connetcor block a jiggle and reseat to.

was working fine the other night, turned off bike when to restart and then do lamp checks to find no low beam at all but all others work ....... worse part bike shop cant fit me in to end of next week or middle of the week after .

 

Round two on the stupid headlight on Pedro

so heres what i tampered with :

Phillips screwdriver to move the main sidelamps / lowbeam conenctor and try seat it better.
pulled off front cowl , removed bulb rubber boot and extracted bulb holder, tweeked the bayonet conections ( one was not fully connecting.
hit the kickstart, side lights mode (works ) .... low beam (works) .... high beam (works)
put the front panel and the bulb boot back on, start bike, sidelights mode (works) ...low beam ( dont work) ... high beam works ...

tear of the front again and nothing is outta place at all its all how i had it when the low beam came on. bulbs are fine both brand new ( halogen and incandescant ) , so yeah i dont wana swear on forum but im FPO. one min its works and the next it just stops again i dont get it one bit, no relays no controllers just straight to switch wiring , i cant see it being the main switch either otherwise why would side lights work . and to cap it all off someone in house moved my Spada lid and tore the camera mount clean of the chin bar , so yeah im super super miffed with this scooter and the cam mount needing replacing.

wanted working WWII Howitzer with a single HE round please ...... pedro need freaking shooting !!!!

 

With the front off, try wiggling the wires around to see if you have a broken wire internally.
Alternatively, grab a scotchlok connector, put it as far back along the low beam wire as you can and place the other end on the lamp terminal.
Disconnect the original bulb spade fitting.
Put the front back on and see if the same occurs, i.e bulb doesn't work.
If the bulb DOESN'T work then I think the connection is coming away from the bottom of the bulb itself when you put the front back on.
If it does work and stays on, then there's you broken wire.

 

Thank you stevep

heres the thing its didnt work , but when i gave the wires a wiggle behind the handlebar cover/switch and reseated the bulb conection plate on the bulb holder it worked. i turned off the lights via switch threw everything back on tried again and it stopped working again, i think it could be a wonkey switch ....

switch is a three way , Off - sidelights - main beam ..... when you switch from Off to side lights only the little 5w bulb upfront comes on, when you switch from sidelight to main beam both sidelight and main beam comes on , i think its the switch between sidelight and mainbeam thats faulting. Going to run out to Garry in the morning see if he has a jet 50 headlight switch .

my loom is kinda screwed up , the lamp goes from the bulb to a connector to a main loom that leads up into handlebar cowling and the relevent switches, once i get back from garrys, im going to pull the front handle bar cover off and unplug switch to check continuity on the white wire (white wire is mainbeam - blue is highbeam - green is ground ) , not sure i can do a continuity check on switch but will try that to.

if i find no continuity on the white but i do the blue, im thinking of a bypass, just going direct from white plug on lamp switch to the white wire connector on the bulb fitment cutting out the whole loom

 

Well for you sym jet owners ( jet basix - jet 100 )

you have three main wires from your headlamps Blue (high beam ) white (low beam) Green (ground)

now the wires lead to the DIMMER switch located on the left hand switch above the horn .
blue and white from headlamps go direct to the Dimmer switch , and the green goes to an earth.
also on the dimmer switch is a brown wire, this goes direct to your left hand headlight off/ sidelight/main light switch.

its very crude the way its sett out to the main loom leading from the front headlights to the switches, its taken me around an hour working out where these wires go from and to using my scooter and the Sym Jet 100 wire schematic .
i now think my problem lays between the connector that comes from the headlights upto the dimmer switch located on the left of the handlebars above the horn. so if your having lighting problems explictly lost the mainbeam fuction that dimmer switch is your first point of call.

i will also note the BA20D bulb holder is very poor on quality, the higbeam pos and high beam neg terminal pads that contact the bottom of the bulb itself are very prone to moving and sliding off the connection points on the bulb, there is no way to tighten these up either , so if you loose any function on headlights i also would hint at checking these connection pads on the BA20d bulb holder and maybe even tweeking them by pressing them down into the holder so the blub makes a full contact when inserted and the pressure from the bulb helps keep them in place .

still not fixed my loss of low beam, but i have narrowed down the area some what now.

 

At a total loss, continuity from switches to main looms, conitunity from main looms to bulb socket . Bulbs both tested and low beam enables from a 12v battery source direct connection.. also continuity between main light on/off and dimmer .

my only thought is theres a break somewhere that intermitently connecting , going to have to wait until i have saved enough pennys to have a couple hours labour in the bike shop.

 

FIXED the headlight problem:

first off i replaced the dimmer switch and the off/sidelight/mainbeam switch with those from a Honda SFX ( direct replacement ).
next i triple checked continuity on all switch pins and dimmer pins, i also traced continuity to the white wire on dimmer and the blue wire on dimmer, i also continuity checked the brown wire from dimmer to the brown wire on light/sidelight switch. all were in continuity.

next i reprobed headlamps blue wire reminal direct from bulb to blue wire on dimmer , the same with the white wire from bulb to the white wire on dimmer, both these were in continuity ( ie no breaks a full circuit ).

next was the bulb itself lowbeam terminal to earth and highbeam terminal to earth both in continuity.
highbeam to lowbeam terminals in continuity ........... HMMMMMMMMM problem here there should be no closed circuit to these two terminals . inspection of bulb under eyeglass showed the black ceramic had cracked and the pressure of bulb terminals and terminal spades had moved the internals of the bulb around and shorted both higbeam and lowbeam with each other.
fitted a Halogen BA20D 35/35 watt and everything works now ( fingers crossed ).

WORD OF WARNING : the syms BA20d bulb holder will not tollerate a Halogen bulb for to long at all its cheap plastic and will mealt under the 200 degrees heat the bulb produces once warmed up, you will also find the main healight lens will start to soften up and melt if your not careful. THERE IS NO FIX for this problem either i have exhausted all avenues even a retrograde refit of eurox headlights front cowl and wire loom, these two suffer the same fate as the lowly sym jet basix /red devil.

On a final note . after a lotta research and a few number plate searches Pedro keeps coming up as a SYM RED DEVIL ( its a basix but made for the us market )

 

Question to old school tuners :

changed carb to 17.5mm and a 80 jet size , also had the autolube re-adjusted .

heres the thing the motor gave up , ie a lotta white blue smoke loss of power , restarted and no idle and stall , restarted loss of power / idle and stall, motor fails to restart at all. plugs getting wet But theres a lotta black oil sludge and a highly blackened plug ( was a lovely choco brown untill motor went )

i changed from a fully synth oil and started running a yamalube semi synth oil , bike went in for carb change - rejet and setup, but i forgot to tell them i was using semi syth and not full synth, so its possible they have adjusted the auto lube to give 33:1 or less ratios when i should be running around say 40:1 with semi.
could this cluck up have fried the motor ie running a to rich/lean oil to air/fuel mix rate, thing is there was no sign of a hot motor ie the usual smelly hot motor smell , or overly hot variator case .

im also waiting on a compression tester, yet the service manual is giving a 7 kgf cm2 compression reading thats around 6.8bar or around 99 psi im thinking thats a bit low ?

also should i be running a dry test and a wet test ? . ie test with plug removed and take reading check for pressure fall. then inject a small amount of two stroke mixing oil into the cylinder allowing it to run around and seal the piston rings, again running a wet test and see if theres an added pressure raise, ie i run first test and get a 80psi reading no fall, yet a wet test gives a 110 reading with a fall to 92psi ? would this show a ring seal leak / possible barrel damage ?

 

ARGHHHHHHHHHHH


center stand is pushing exhaust off its mounting studs. went and checked the sym jet today, found the exhaust not even sitting in the manifold stud cut outs , the stand has pushed the exhaust upwards so the studs were barely catching.
Pushed the stand up and then remounted the exhaust to stud gaps on exhaust manifold , bolted it all down tight as i could and fired it up............ MASSIVE amounts of smoke left it running while tickling the throttle otherwise it drops out and stalls. after 5 mins warming up i shut it off geared up and went back to start it ....... it wont start and the carb filter is soaked with fuel again .

Pedro has been renamed hence fourth as DB aka demon bike because it feels like its possesed by the devil itself and just wont play nice any more. good note even after 5 mins warm up variator case was stone cold to touch

 

If you dont have too small airinlet, then you have a problem after the carb if the fuel is coming back. (if I understand you correctly)
I have read all your post and cant find if you have checked the reeds.
Some of your symptoms you have now looks like bad reeds...

 

exhaust had been pushed off its mounting studs due to a totally messed up center stand, that had caused the scooter to overheat and metal expands at high temps so the whole motor just started to heat up and that caused the fuel problems and none starting issue,

i refitted pipe to correct place on studwork and torqued down the holding nuts, removed airfilter and gave it a dry in the sun to evap any unwanted petrol from, then installed and kicked the scooter, third kick it fired up and everykick aftewrwards it fires first time.

got a buyer coming saturday to view it and maybe take it of my hands