Sym Jet Basix / Eurox Problems

Just a thought.. Could the fuel/carb issues be something to do with the fuel pump not being able to put enough fuel through?

 

yeah i seen a few, but problem is they require you to have been in a job for atleast 3yrs. the cheapest deal i found on finance was 35 a month on a sym bike. but problem is having no job at current i have no chance of finance, and you have to have a minimum amount going into back every month ( i also do not pass that requirement either ).

its just a long haul 10 quid here 20 quid there until i gain enough for an ebay job or a gumtree buy ( even then its a big risk getting something thats not exactly true to advertized " yeah it runs fine " and 10 mile later its blown out a stator or the bottom end blows out .

 

fuel pump got rebuild - cleaned and meter tested its giving correct measure of fuel to carb. i even got a mikuni copy pump shop fitted it kicked bike over and the motor couldnt run a high enough pressure to pump, fuel just trickled out ( still have the new pump here to) but it runs the stock peugeot/ sym pump just fine with a strong stream of fuel.

fuels working ok now, its just lean as hell up in wide open throttle , you pull over and the bike stinks of overheat ( that tell tail sticky heat smell) . sym sell the bikes overseas non europe derestricted (45mph ) and every one is sold with a 17.5mm carb fitted . so i am in hope the new 17.5mm carb is what is needed , ( yep they still run the same fueling pump on the none eu scoots ).

added a attachemnt of a mikuni pump ( mines a octane 101 copy of that pump )

 

New carb turned up..... i took it out of the box grabbed the bag and carb fell out onto the floor ( from about 3ft). it snapped off the whole carb drain nipple .

now onto euroscooterparts to find out if they sell replacement float bowls. looked at the Dellorto L-DEL1438 carburettor and is float bowl is nothing like the one the naraku has, yet its a direct copy of the dello carb so it states. the oiginal dello carb does not have a choke jet fitted where this naraku one does

booked bike in to have the carb fitted and re-jetted - set up could only get it in next wedensday so i have a very short time frame to find a replacement bowl.

 

Naraku no brand name carb ( meant to be a dellorto copy R1438 carb)

i am unable to find a shallow bowl , all bowls sold for this dello carb are large bowl and will not fit scooter due to bowl resting upon variator cover/engine cover. notice inside the bowl its got a 60 size choke jet to. also notice the blocked out port hole and screw hole in carbs air inlet side and beside the idle/mixture screws ( any idea ? i thought maybe a choke adjuster or possible a seperate fuel mix screw).
also be handy if someone could nail down what the carb is a copy from ie PHVA -PHVB etc etc

added attachments of the carb and the flakey fuel drain nipple where it snapped off, quality wise its pony and trap 100% china made .

 

have you tried chemical metal to stick broken bit back on

 

You know...........I don't think I'd worry about that too much.
Looking at the photo's, the drain screw will still shut off the fuel properly.
The only bit that is snapped off is the 'spout'.
If it really is an issue, where you can't get a container under it to catch the fuel while being drained, (which may be the case)
have a thought on this:
It looks like it might well be threaded into the body of the carb bowl, but then that's only how it looks on the photo.
If it's part of the casting itself, then it could be a different matter altogether.
If you suspect it to be threaded into the bowl, try a small stud extractor on it.
Or:
Measure the hole in the middle. (where the fuel would come out)
If it's the size I'm thinking about, try putting a piece of the straw that comes on the WD40 spray cans in there and use chemical metal to hold it in place permanently.
Chemical metal is petrol resistant so is suitable to use.
Then use some oil feed pipe to extend the straw to a suitable place.
And if the WD40 straw is too big, try some red inner sheath that is used on throttle cables.

 

Or..................
get the depth of the replacement bowl, and use a spacer on top of the reed valve block to adjust the difference

 

yeah it looks threaded in to me but closer inspection its just moulded into the body, two trains of thought , recut the inder id to accept a small rc fuel barb nozzle . if not i was thinking of drilling out to a very thin id copper brake tube and then bending said tube into shape so it flows from carb to between wheel and motor rear case ( copper i thought a better option being heat resistant and will not flop around like a silicone tube) . just gotta wait another 5 days before its in the shop and fitted and rejetted .

right now it pulls lovely , holeshot is sweet as, 0-30 is swift and then from 30-42 is rapid as hell, but i have lost top end speed from this pipe, the tt got me to 47-50 on clock , this trek gets me to 42-45 max and im maxed on throttle travel and rpm, only change was the pipe, still have the 3x6 and 3x8g rollers in but its changed the low end pick up, mid range. and bottomed out my max speed.
where i would scream and drop from a pull away, i now scream and just haul ass lol., i am in hope the bigger carb with more flow and a airbox restictor chop will give a little extra , airbox inlet is 40mm, but the restrictive rubber grommet tube brings it down to like 20mm .

once this is done i am leaving scoot alone for a few months till summer time , then malossi multivar and a spray job, then a second few months wait ( renew cbt - insurance with recovery cover) then i hope to have enough pennys saved to get a second scoot to fix up as main ride , looking at a vespa LX 125 or maybe an aerox if i find a cheapy

 

Anyone Know where i can get scooter panel stack transfer decals from, ie bremo etc etc etc in a stack formation for scooters. ie rally race style stack you see on doors but i wnat them running down the front left and right side paneling.

prefer them to be transfer so they look the part

 

OK to the sym jet owners reading this heres what you need to do to bring the basix/eurox to full power

exhaust either a tenchigas trek / leo vince tt ( derestrict these by removing the cone from the exhausts manifold)
usual cdi derestiction (upgrade cdi ) and remove variator wedding ring.
fit a 17mm carb naraku) and remove the snorkel restrictor in the airbox front plate (air intake), re-jet straight to a 81 dellorto main (6mm)
cut the metal tube from top of the naraku carb and fit a z shape plate to hold a propper cable adjuster from a 125cc -600cc carb. refit a new cable and inner sheath throttle cable and relax the adjuster on the handle bar throttle adjuster.
fit 3x 6 gram rollers and 3x 6.5 gram rollers into the variator , before doing this get rid of the stock variator and replace it with either a polini hispeed variator or a mallosi multivar 2000.

Top speed 50mph , pulls like a cart horse , sounds sweet within the law limits. power wise around 6.05 HP

your also ready from this base derestriction to fit a mallosi 70cc iron sport cylinder ( with a slight upjet to around 90 -105 main jet) and install a Hoca 14/41 gear up kit . power wise around 9.2HP will pull upto and over 50mph with around a top end speed of 60-65mph , run it rich or you will blow the t5c motor to bits on the stock crank

Be warned its not easy and will cost you an arm and a leg ( go buy an aerox is a better idea )


anyways after mega internet searches and registration dumps , i have found out my scooter is NOT a eurox as stated on the V5 , infact its a sym jet basix (newer motor ie a version 2) , there are 605 registered sym eurox in the uk out of the 2.5k registered in 2005. Basix wise there are only just over 100 left on the uk roads out of the 2k registered in around 2004 - 2006.

so pedro is kinda rare being there not to many left on the road out there and its sure to get lower over time. if your a eurox owner (2005-2006 ) theres only 600 or so left on the road and these will fall over a few more years to.

 

Sym jet owners , keep your eyes out on the kickstarter, mine has just started to play up, bushing is very wobbley and the retrun spring is now on its way out causing the kickstart to stay in the compressed drop down region requiring hand/foot to return it and also jarrs a bit to where it feels like its going to lock up.

if your kickstarter is a bit loose, get it fixed !! because if it locks up on the down sweep the starter will not engage and it will lock the tooth moon gear to the main drive face on variator without you able to start or run the scooter.

 

Still looking at headlight options.

so i am a kind of fan of the honda zoomer / ruckus style front panel mounted headlight bracket and dual round lamps, i like that metal butch look and the simple idea of them bolting direct to the zoomer/ruckus front fairing plastics.
just a slight problem, the zoomer/ruckus have a somewhat flat front panel where the sym jet's have a bow front panel.

looked at swapping the basix front fairing with a eurox dual teardrop style lamp fitting but i ran into problems, the basix has a single hi/low bulb fitting into a single socket headlamp ( one main headlight wire loom ) , where the eurox and others came revamped with dual lamp sockets . major pain in the rear as my loom is single lamp hookup only.

Next was something like an RD125lc front square lamp bodged into the front end of the sym fairing but again its lacking mounting points and the weight could tear through the plastic if its bolted direct to that ( lets be honest plastic aint that strong )

Final idea is a long shot and thats creating a metal back housing, that would help a lot and allow hotter bulbs to be fitted without worry of the melting housing problem BUT major flaw here is the reflector built into the plastic rear housing , without that the headlamp will fail on any mot due to not giving the correct light pattern throw.

Other ideas : chopping up the front fairing and trying to bolt in an aerox headlamp trying to bolt in a mbk / neos front headlamp.
try to fit a speedfight 1-2 font fairing and running speedfight headlamp unit. last choice was going fully naked and just bolting on a single round lamp ( not a good idea as it leaves the whole ignition reg/rect and likes open to thiefs and ney do gooders. or fit running lights but again aint no mounting points only the plastic fairing and i can see bolts getting pulled through that like a hot knife in butter.

so yep right now its still running round with a church candle as a headlight and keeping away from any unlit roads and not riding when its foggy/superfoggy as i cant see a darn thing at all

 

Argggggh want a cub BUT........

i found a 100cc sym jet exactly like pedro for £350. its a two stroker and all pedros parts will fit the 100cc.
or i can grab a mashed up pannels Aerox for £200 or a 56 plate NRG lc for £250 both have no ticket, but the sym 100 does.

but will the trek pipe fit the 100cc ( its more a 50cc/70cc pipe , surely it will work on the 100cc) already have a 17.5mm carb so that could be fitted and rejetted to 90-95 jets , a brand new 600 miles rear pully and clutch/belt and rollers i could swap over. all the plastics from pedro would bolt direct to the 100cc to, ( i could prep them early summer, have them sprayed and fitted by next winter to ) giving me a nice custom panel painted set and a spare stock panel set. , i could then sell the motor for a quick £80-100 , the frame and v5 for like what £50-80, and still have a fairly nippy scooter ?

i have to think whats better spending £900 on a cub, or £350 on a 100cc pedro and raking something back from the leftovers of the 50cc pedro. or i keep pedro throw the cub idea out of the window and find a ratted out aerox/ nrg and throw cash into that as a long term project.

i am just worried a spanking new cub parked out front even with it ground anchored is still going to be a very good target for theft, than a half hitched scooter ( cub is gonna sell quicker as parts if its stolen that a hard to come by sym jet )

 

Decided on a light upgrade. installing a 18w 6x cree led light bar.

going stealth and hiding it under the front panel above the mudguard but suspended below the fork yolk clamps, on my sysm jet theres a secondary dirt/water guard held on with 3 bolts two up front and a single at the rear. im going to use the rear single bolt to hold the lightbar in place, the run a homemade wire harness inc fuse holder to the main battery and a stealth fitted aux light switch.

the light switch i am thinking of hiding under the horn switch, drilling a 5-8mm hole under the horn button and fitting a tactile rubber on/off switch. out of sight out of mind for when scooter is MOT'd and incase some little nerd decided to try and switch it on and drain my battery. at 1300 lumens it should light up a fair bit of road ahead of me and means i can take trips out down the dark country lanes without worry whats coming up ( 55w candle does not light up the road very much at all ).

 

Well the first image is where the led light bar will be fitted, its a space above the front mudguard and below the front fork yolk clamp splash guard. the two front bolts will not be used, but the rear single bolt will hold the light bar tucked up out of the way. the power lead will use the speedo cable run and be fed upto the front fairing panel then join a homemade power leash with fuse holder to power switch.

second image is of the light bar and a rule giving folks an overal measurement of the unit. about 6 inch wide end to end about 150g weight full alloy body, plastic lens cover and holds 6x 3w cree SMD with small projector lensers. current draw is around 18w @ 10-30v and a light output of 1360 lumens and a 60 degree spread

third image is with the light bar just resting ontop of the front mud fender it gives you an idea where its mounted and the look on the sym with it roughly in place, does not look out of place and will be tucked futher back and more inline with bottom of front fairing.

added a fourth image, i G.I.M.P'ed up the original mock up but changed the light bar to be fitted in the front cowl right below the headlamp ( just a rough clone tool job ) , i think it being direct under the headlamp is going to have more impact on drivers seeing me and me seeing more of the road ahead.

 

Video test : this is the Kitvision HD camera sat atop of the led lightbar powered by a 8xaa battery pack (12v fully charged) the light bar as above post is a 18w -12v @ 1360 lumens , camera is switch on without powering up the lamp to give you an idea of how dark it is. then the lamp goes on to show it throwing the light out at a fair'ish distance . the camera then moves upto the street where the streetlights take over but the lamp is still turned on, right at the end i swing round to pedro and shut down the lamp showing how much light is cast by the lamp at close range ( i was around 10ft from pedro at the end of video )

 

Flickering headlights are annoying me really bad. my tail light is only just visable when bikes at idle and the front lamps dim a huge amount around 60% brightness loss .

been scouring the interweb for ideas, and i have come to the conclusion , the stator is on its way out or its the regulator rectifier.

new stator for the bike £68 , new regulator rec depending if its a 5 wire its £23 , if its a 4 wire its £6.99 .
new headlight assembly if i can find one £20 , i have a upgraded halogen bulb but afraid to use it in case it melts the headlight housing and bulb holder.

 

Led bulbs!

 

cant find any that will be road legal in uk.

the ones i did find are 360 with a lenser on the tip and wont give the correct light pattern ( my lense and housing are the focusers ).
also they still going to output heat , the SMT leds produce heat and its sunk away via the bulb holder and my fitting is the old BA20D type

looked at car led lamps but they can reach temps of 140c thats just gonna melt my plastic lamp housing and the bulb fitment holder.
only other way was to make a metal rear lens holder and try to remove the headlamp lens . its more hassle than worth.

cant get the led light bar fitted without causing collisions with the top of the mudguard and the light bar when its fitted. so i am having to look for smaller round lamps and with some way mount them using the front mudguard screw mount points. even then i have to tear off all front fairings and side footwell panels / rear panels / seat bucket +seat to then install the wire loom to power them and to fit a on/off switch.

its all going to have to wait till summer, and by then the nights would have pulled out lol