Sr50 2015 derestricted standard equipment advice required

Discussion in 'Newbie Scooter Tuning' started by GJ7RWT, Feb 10, 2017.

  1. GJ7RWT

    GJ7RWT Member

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    32
    Sorry it's the tecnigas silent Pro exhaust I've seen on a website
     
  2. GJ7RWT

    GJ7RWT Member

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    32
    Thanks Marsh for the advice. I think my son might start getting a bit worried when he sees his scooter in bits on the drive
     
  3. Tamiyacowboy

    Tamiyacowboy Pippa's Owner

    Messages:
    1,850
    Rides:
    Piaggio Skipper
    Ah if its like the one i posted it can be derestricted .

    but the silent pro is ok to its a more stock looking pipe so mr policemen wont be so interested in the scooter if he is pulled over. a little less noise and a little extra power.

    i run the technigas trek with a full derestricion to it , its a little louder but boy its got a nice powerband spread 30mph upwards the scooter flys , 0-30 the scooter is nice and sensible , hill climbs 25-30mph
     
  4. Stevep

    Stevep Well-Known Member

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    5,895
    Better not bleedin' break down!
    We're late enough getting to france, not particularly fond of late dinners.
    Technigas are decent pipes, just don't get the chrome ones. Rusty in 3 months. Better to have self colour and use VHT black rattle can paint.
     
  5. GJ7RWT

    GJ7RWT Member

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    32
    Here is an interesting graph showing a standard pipe versus various other pipes. The silent Pro looks like a good bet. I know the rollers have been changed (surely for lighter ones) which I think I am right in thinking moves the revs higher for a given speed. So that would fit with what my son says, acceleration is a bit lacking as with a standard pipe the power starts declining after 6000rpm. If with the rollers fitted his motor is running closer to 7000 he will have a power disadvantage. If my theory is incorrect here then please let me know.

    My thoughts are that the silent Pro will be more forgiving if everything isn't matched perfectly. I am about 95 percent committed to purchasing one as it's an easy bolt on job.

    Hope the file uploads ok
     

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  6. Stevep

    Stevep Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,895
    Found that on ped parts?
    Useful innit
     
  7. Tamiyacowboy

    Tamiyacowboy Pippa's Owner

    Messages:
    1,850
    Rides:
    Piaggio Skipper
    if you willing pop on a technigas trek , this will give you a really forgiving powerband spread, so even if he went with heavyer rollers it would still do ok.
    the trek pipe powerband spread is from around 8000 rpm to 9000rpm , so as the motor builds its rpm the pipes soon going to kick in and deliver that kapow punch .

    at the mo your stock pipe holds you back due to its tuned for low rpm so at around 6000rpm its at its optimal and above its falling away , so if he is producing lets say 3.4hp now @ 6500 rpm when the bike starts to rev higher the HP will drop down to around 3hp. with a propper sport pipe like a technigas triops / trek that base 3.4hp its gonna shoot up to around 5.8hp.

    throw on a malossi multivar hi speed variator his little scoots going to top out somewhere between 45-50mph flat out on the rpm ( he going to be hitting around 9000+rpm or just shy )

    heres a couple attachments showing whats possible and another putting the sleint pro up against sport pipes ;) the slient pro makes just over 5hp at around 8600rpm ...... but if we look at the trek pipe its producing a max hp of around 9hp but this is with a 70cc barrel, so a standard 50cc barrel your looking close to 6hp maybe 6.05 hp and its operating around the same rpm and a little higher than where the silent pro hits its max
     

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  8. GJ7RWT

    GJ7RWT Member

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    Yup! Very handy comparison. Lots of very useful info on their site. I've learnt a lot from it in a short space of time.
     
  9. GJ7RWT

    GJ7RWT Member

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    32
    Hi Marsh,

    I am just about to buy a set of main jets for the 17.5 phva. Are they the 5 or 6 mm ones I need? I think the sizes run from 50-70 so that should be well within the range I need as I am going with the tecnigas silent Pro.

    Cheers
    Andy
     
  10. MARSH

    MARSH Whooooo!

    Messages:
    3,214
    Rides:
    Piaggio Typhoon
    6mm, start with the biggest jet and work down in size until it work's !
     
  11. GJ7RWT

    GJ7RWT Member

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    32
    Thanks Marsh. Sounds drastic going from a mid 50 (apparently) to a 70 but hey I am brand new to this so I will do as you say

    Looks a right pain in the ass to get these jets changed. Carb off probably, lots of clips, hoses etc. Access not great heh
     
  12. GJ7RWT

    GJ7RWT Member

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    32
    Also found in the bag with the rollers and inlet baffle was this rubber pipe. Anyone know what it's for?

    Cheers
    Andy
     

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  13. GJ7RWT

    GJ7RWT Member

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    32
    I've been trying to find a definitive answer on the interweb as to whether that inlet baffle between the air box and carb should be left in it not. Never before has one little piece of brass caused such differing opinion!

    Some say it's not a restrictor at all and it's there to create a better mix of air/fuel at low revs whilst others say it should only be taken out on 70cc engines. Looks like the majority say it's a restrictor and needs to come out no matter what.

    Whats the opinion of my learned friends on this forum?

    Cheers
    Andy
     
  14. Stevep

    Stevep Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,895
    Yeah, that brass plate has caused a lot of opinions to be voiced.
    It acts as a restrictor to the airflow into the carb.
    Technically, if you remove the plate, you would probably have to up-jet at least one size anyway to compensate for the increased air flow.
    If you're tuning the bike, fitting 70 kit's, exhausts and stuff, then remove it; you are going to re-jet the carb to suit everything else anyway, and the better the airflow, the better the bike will run.
    I personally have not had a problem with removing these brass plates
     
  15. GJ7RWT

    GJ7RWT Member

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    Cheers Steve,

    I've got some bits arriving any day so hopefully I will be able to take a look over the weekend to see what's in there at the moment with regards rollers and jets. All good fun !

    Cheers Andy
     
  16. GJ7RWT

    GJ7RWT Member

    Messages:
    32
    OK so the latest is the Tecnigas silent Pro exhaust has been fitted which has improved acceleration considerabley. The lighter rollers that were fitted by the previous owner couldn't have suited the stock restricted exhaust.
    The main jet fitted was a 64. With the tecnigas exhaust it was running just on the leaner side of perfect so I upped it to a 65 to be on the safe side. I have yet to pull the plug to see how the 65 is doing but the scooter certainly runs well according to my son who is now able to keep up with the rest of his mates!

    I haven't looked at the rollers. As the scooter is doing what it should do now there seemed little point. The silent Pro has a wide power band so the weights aren't too critical. Also, I don't have an accurate enough set of scales to measure tenths of grams.

    So I think we are there now. Thanks for all the advice from everyone. My initial guess that it was a problem with the rollers was wrong (it was more a case of wrong exhaust for the rollers fitted)

    Cheers
    Andy
     
  17. MiNoR cOnFuSiOn

    MiNoR cOnFuSiOn Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,276
    Rides:
    et2 monster
    the brass plates holes diameter, equal more than the throat of the carb, thus, its not a restrictor, its a director. removing this gives you no high end gains and poor low end running. rollers you need to weigh and compair to performance, ride the bike, if they are too heavy, the bike will rev, engage the clutch, slip for a bit then the revs will ether stay low or gradually go lower and lower untill you eventually reach the top of the ramp and MAYBE accelerate, hills are amazing for working out roller weight. take them out, weigh them, ajust accordingly. quarter gram per roller makes a difference you will notice, and there are setup sets avalabkle (big bunch of rollers or diff weighted cores you swap out) a set of these is invaluable, then just buy rollers to suit the setup. tbh theres no reason for a scooter enthusiast to instantly buy a good selectyion of rollers, i have 10+ sets kicking about for each bike i own as its better to have them on hand, and i DO change them weekly almost. always having a play. past a cheapo pipe you really should look at just buying a 70 kit. more power, stock pipe, same delivery. will pull nicely indeed, or add a pipe to the mix and you are laughing. i ride a similar asetup bike 20+ miles a day, country hills and asshole cars on national speed lim9it roads (60+) and the bike keeps up fine (i have a kit gear up and pipe) well, theres a bit more in the engine, but more for reliability and the hills (variator, crank, clutch springs blah blah blah) but i run an airbox so other than the pipe the bike looks stock. theres a few options, 40 isnt a high top speed so you can deffo make most of your power, but dont think sacrificing top speed gives you acceleration, its a mytgh, too heavy or too light a roller just LOOSES top end or acceleration. just because its revving hard, doesnt mean its moving hard. again, take it up a hill and down a hill at full throttle, if it slows going up the hill, drop the rollers a bit, if revs higher going down a hill than on the flat, drop the weight.. iuf it revs but wont climb the hill, it needs more weight, if its revving its tits off and still not really moving down the hill/reaching full speed, it needs weight. its complicated, but the sooner you learn how to listen to what your engine wants, the sooner you can make changes based on what you know, not what your told.
     
  18. GJ7RWT

    GJ7RWT Member

    Messages:
    32
    Thanks MC for th detailed reply.

    That brass baffle plate on the inlet certainly devides opinion! So if if put it back in, theoretically the jetting shouldn't need to be changed as the amount of air entering is still limited by the carb throat and not the total size of holes in the baffle plate? I checked the plug yesterday and it's a nice dark coffee colour without the baffle so hopefully putting the plate back in won't upset that?

    I think we could still go lower on roller weight as the revs do drop a but on the hills according to my son. I got him to carry a small GPS unit on Saturday to check the accuracy of his speedometer. The speedometer was showing 50mph whilst the GPS showed 44mph. I am not sure if the scooter was still accelerating at this point or if it had run out of chuff? As you can most probably tell, I don't actually ride this scooter!

    Thanks for your help.

    Cheers
    Andy
     
  19. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

    Messages:
    7,321
    Why do the put that plate in? I am pretty sure full power models (switzerland) have it, maybe its an emmissions thing?
     
  20. MiNoR cOnFuSiOn

    MiNoR cOnFuSiOn Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,276
    Rides:
    et2 monster
    nope, the holes in the plate are bigger than the carb, theres no restriction.. they literally point air at the idle circuit to give it a stronger "blow" as it were... if you dont have a 70 kit, you leave it the fuck there, or your idle mix will never be right/you will eat plugs, your revs will chase and you will drink more fuel. it will also loose responce and gain NO POWER FROM ITS REMOVAL :D

    should run identically at full throttle so if youve jetted it to suite no plate, it wont eeffect it. idle mix will richen tho, if its ajustable just wind the screw in a quarter to a half turn, if not, then its not changed from stock lol
     

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