Yamaha slider I’ve taken out all 8 Allen key bolts from stator side and the bearing exposed on the variator side I’ve taken off the spacer bar and exhaust and cylinder but bashing with a rubber hammer isn’t moving anything any ideas
I need to replace crankshaft bearing on variator side as the cage has come out and bearings are loose. Theres no movement in the case after removing bolts
It would be best to use tool, if replacing crank as well as bearings I always use a copper mallet to knock crank out !
His spirit was guiding me as case split pretty easily on the left I had to use pulley on variator side to push the crank out the bearing stayed in so I bashed it out alot of work to replace a £6 part to confirm bearing goes in the variator side and there shouldnt be a lot of effort to get the crank through it
Does the bearing go at in the variator side and there shouldnt be a lot of effort to get the crank through it before tightning the case
It was a long time since i asembled an engine case. Maybe its better to seat the bearings in the engine case. Than the other way around, tho i think it makes minor differences. If you would have seated the bearings on the crank, maybe they dont go all the way in in the engine case. Just to be on the safe side, you never know if everything, is perfect in regards of distances between crank amd case, just my thoughts about it. In some cases i use freeze spray to cool down bearings instead of freezer, not everything fits in a freezer
I got the bearing in by freezing and heating the hole in the case with a heat gun i did same with crankshaft to get it in the stator side, very easy. Freezing the left case and crank and heating the variator bearing in the case allowed the case to mate to a certain degree. I pulled the case together with engine bolts in astar pattern. THe only issue is if i tighten to a certain amount with not much torque the crank shaft stiffens up, i thought once the case halfs were mated the crank shaft could not be affected by tightening the bolts, maybe the case bolts dont need to be crazy tight.
I’ve closed the crank now with the bolts but wondering how tight do these bolts need to be is it hand tight or specific Newton value
It's always better if you have a tourqe wrench laying around. But you can get away with it if you that gentle touch in your fingers. There are affordable Torque wrenches, and it's a peace of mind using em. But that's up to you. You probably did, Just asking, in case of, Did you use any of that goo inbetween engine half?
When tightening bolts the crank keeps tightening up so I needed to split the case again this time I made my own splitter from slotted channel and threaded bolts total £8
