Speedfight 2 - Electric Starter Issues

Discussion in 'The Workshop' started by Swanner, Jun 4, 2016.

  1. Swanner

    Swanner New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Here's the 2 "sockets"...

    Chassis...
    [​IMG]

    Transmission Casing...
    [​IMG]

    I have a bush and was told only one was needed but i didn't see anywhere to use it. Seems both of these already have a bushing in there. Worth replacing them ?
     
  2. Merlin

    Merlin Old School Biker

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    I'd only replace one if it was cracked, obviously badly worn or missing. Yours look fine to me.
     
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  3. Stevep

    Stevep Well-Known Member

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    5,898
    Why is there a hole in the casing?
     
  4. Swanner

    Swanner New Member

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    25
    That's where the starter goes...
     
  5. Merlin

    Merlin Old School Biker

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    The hole isn't normally that big though; it's usually just a small hole for the starter gear to poke through. It looks as though part of the casting is missing.
     
  6. Swanner

    Swanner New Member

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    25
    That would certainly explain a lot.

    Only thing is the starter fits in very snugly :confused: I have to pry it out gently with a small screwdriver to remove it.

    Been searching for pics online to find something to compare it to. No joy so far but will keep looking...
     
  7. Swanner

    Swanner New Member

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    25
    This is about the best i've found. Not certain it's the same model but certainly no large gaping hole...

    [​IMG]

    Curiouser and curiouser.... :confused:
     
  8. Merlin

    Merlin Old School Biker

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    Yes, that's it. Underneath near the main stand is a larger hole into which the starter motor end and o-ring are a snug fit, then the starter gear itself pokes through a smaller hole not much bigger than the gear itself. it's possible that the casting got broken by someone trying to remove the starter motor. There's an angled deflector plate to protect the starter motor against it hitting anything, but that's assuming that the stand was always there. Very odd.
     
  9. Merlin

    Merlin Old School Biker

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    These are the best images I can find.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    If yours looks like these photos then you are OK and can stop worrying.
     
  10. Swanner

    Swanner New Member

    Messages:
    25
    We'll it's finally working :cool:

    Thankfully and to my huge relief it did look like the picture above :)

    I contacted scooterworks yesterday morning to let him know I hadn't received an o ring with the starter motor. He said he'd sort it and he did. I couldn't believe it when an o ring arrived today. I'm in Dublin, Ireland. Well impressed with that service and he's now my go to guy for parts...

    Anyway, refitted the starter with the o ring and slotted the bendix back in. It instantly looked like a better fit then before. Tightened it all up, put the case back on and away it went...

    Great timing because I bought new runners today :D My last ones were nearly destroyed from kick starting. The electric start was a priority..

    So thanks everyone for your input and help...:)

    Now onto the rear breaks which badly need doing. I tried to get the hub off today but 2 of the 3 bolts we're siezed on. Tried all the usual tricks to no avail. Is this common ? Should I just get a hub ?

    Also, will I need a special pump to add fluid to the system when done ?

    Cheers.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2016
  11. Merlin

    Merlin Old School Biker

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    Well done - a well-earned result!

    You might need to get a local tyre depot to use their air impact wrench to get them off. Once you have them off, get some copper anti-seize grease from Halfords and dab some on the threads to stop them from seizing next time. Steel bolts into alloy threads usually ends up with a seized bolt.

    You won't need a special pump to bleed the brakes, but I would advise that it's a two-man job. One person needs to watch the master cylinder and keep it topped up while they pump the rear brake lever for you to bleed the system by unscrewing the nipple and allowing fluid to flow when the lever is pulled in slowly - the brakes won't take long to bleed any air out. I am assuming that they are disc brakes - early Speedfights had rear drum brakes, like my TKR has. If you are fitting new pads to disc brakes, a small dab of copper grease on the back of the pads will stop them from squealing.
     
  12. Swanner

    Swanner New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Cheers Merlin.

    Yeah, they're discs.

    I'm raging i didn't buy the impact wrench in Aldi or Lidl (can't remember which) a few months ago. I gutted the dpf on my car recently and it would have paid for itself a few times over on that job alone. Now here I am back in the same spot again. Think I might just go buy one...

    Anyway, cheers for the info...

    There's very little resistance in the lever but i assume bleeding the breaks will sort that. The disc is in tatters. Scored and uneven so i have new pads and a disc to fit if i can just get the hub off. I'll try again tomorrow with a blow torch.

    Between this and a few other jobs it's really starting to come together now.. Amazing what a few quid and a bit of tlc can do for an old machine :)
    Think i'm already getting cc envy though and that's a whole other world of pain...

    For now i'm happy :D
     
  13. Merlin

    Merlin Old School Biker

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    You're going to have to post some pictures at some point, we need to see the patient!! :)
     
  14. Swanner

    Swanner New Member

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    25
    I took some pics before putting the case on last night but they didn't turn out great...

    This is the best of a bad lot...

    [​IMG]

    Running sweet now today and starting great every time... :D
     
  15. Merlin

    Merlin Old School Biker

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    Now when you fill up next, add an extra 1% of 2-stroke oil to the petrol, that's about 100ml. it will help prevent engine trouble, as Peugeots are known to run rather lean on the oil ratio and a smoky exhaust costs less than en engine rebuild. ;)
     
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  16. Swanner

    Swanner New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Is there a specific brand / spec that people use / recommend ?

    Does it really need to be Esso ? And fully synthetic ?

    Also will any decent brake fluid will do ?

    Thanks again...

    Really appreciate all the advice... :)
     
  17. Merlin

    Merlin Old School Biker

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    Any 2-stroke will do - I'm currently using the bargain 'Mix and Go' 2-stroke from Wilko and it smells glorious. Fully synthetic is smokeless and I'd rather have smoke as it confirms it's in the engine. Any DOT 4 brake fluid is OK in the brakes, so your local car spares shop can help you.
     
  18. Swanner

    Swanner New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Ah Ok. I'm on the Halford's Synthetic. It smoked a lot more when I first got it so this would explain that....

    I'll get some semi for the next fill..

    Everyday's a school day on here :D
     
  19. Merlin

    Merlin Old School Biker

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    2,305
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    Ricky.H and Swanner like this.
  20. Swanner

    Swanner New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Love it :D That's ingenious..

    I will end up getting some... and like everyone else, I will end up sniffing the exhaust fumes to see if they smell like strawberry :confused:

    Filled up the scooter tonight and finally figured out what these are...

    [​IMG]

    So cheers for the tip.. I threw one in the tank and it sounds happy :)

    Also, have a hub ordered and brake fluid bought so rear brakes will get sorted this week. I bled the rear today and they tightened up nicely although not sure the caliper isn't sticking. Anyway, i'll take it apart and replace anything that needs replacing.

    Now i'm off to convince myself that I need strawberry scented 2 stroke oil...
     
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