Rear wheel not turning

Discussion in 'The Workshop' started by milo2025, May 16, 2019.

  1. milo2025

    milo2025 Trip to Trumpton

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    727
    It's pretty much seized up again. Had the belt changed recently so doubt it's that or the variator. Think it could be the break caliper seized on the rear disc due to extreme heat. I've been seriously caning the breaks (and the engine) lately while the weather has been fine. The whole bike seems to get roasting hot. Going to dismantle the rear break now, go for a long test ride and report back.
     
  2. milo2025

    milo2025 Trip to Trumpton

    Messages:
    727
    Sprayed it with copious amounts of wd-40 AND gt-85 for good measure, let the whole thing cool down and now it's fine. I'm sure the engine is running far too hot. Makes it difficult to start due to fuel vaporisation in the carb. It will get worse in the extreme summer heat we have been forecast for 2019. Perhaps the engine is running too rich as it's not only smoking like a bitch, the fuel consumption is dire. Whizzed up to Bury St Edmunds and back yesterday to see a pal, had to fill her up twice (the speedfight). Money down the pipe. On the other hand maybe it's running to lean? I adjusted the the idle which is all very well when the engine is warm but when cold the bar steward keeps cutting out as tickover too low. KTM's new 2 strokers are fuel injected. I think that is brilliant. Shame they are scramblers ( which are also great but not too many "green lanes" around my neck of the woods). Oh, apart from the obvious, what is the difference between electric and standard carbs, is it to do with the choke? Thought manual chokes hardly existed anymore. Thoughts and comments most welcome. It's all food for thought :cool:
     
  3. Damjan

    Damjan Active Member

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    152
    Rides:
    Baotian Falcon 50R
    There is electric and manual chokes. Manual choke is much better because you control it , while the electric choke wont fully close sometimes it fcks up, or for example everytime you start the bike even when you have driven a bit it still opens it and u need to wait to close, otherwise u have more fuel flowing in your mixture.
    If you are driving a 2T its pretty simple and easy to check if you are running lean or rich,or if you are expirenced u can just hear it feel it, i dont know what u drive.
     
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  4. milo2025

    milo2025 Trip to Trumpton

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    Speedfight 100 :)
     
  5. Damjan

    Damjan Active Member

    Messages:
    152
    Rides:
    Baotian Falcon 50R
    Start it drive it a bit so it warms up to working temperature, then you should find straight place 400-500meters. What u want to do after its warmed up, you will stop and give it full throttle and hold it for 400-500meters i dont know how many miles is that, after that distance u just turn it off with your key and u start braking instantly to stop as fast as u can. After you stop you pull the spark plug out and take a picture of the color, it should be taken without flashlight and on sun light. I will tell you if its rich/lean.
     
  6. milo2025

    milo2025 Trip to Trumpton

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    Will do. Cheers!
     
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  7. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

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    7,321
    Yeah that's called a plug chop.
    Should be brown.
    White is too hot/lean
    Black is too rich.
     
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  8. milo2025

    milo2025 Trip to Trumpton

    Messages:
    727
    Had a quick look, it is white indeed. I should have guessed this really. Makes more sense and also explains why the oil consumption is so low. I will follow your handy step by step guide to tune the carb (@ scuba), seems fairly self explanatory, a question of trial and error. I had a feeling it would come in handy soon.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2019
  9. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

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    7,321
    White is never good.
    Is it air cooled?
     
  10. milo2025

    milo2025 Trip to Trumpton

    Messages:
    727
  11. milo2025

    milo2025 Trip to Trumpton

    Messages:
    727
    And back to the real wheel, it's gone all stiff again. Will turn but you have to use some real force. Can't be good for the engine riding it around like that; with the extra stresses put on it the heat coming from that and the exhaust is intense. Like my pipe, I'm baffled.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2019
  12. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

    Messages:
    7,321
    Disk or drum?
     
  13. milo2025

    milo2025 Trip to Trumpton

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    727
  14. Stevep

    Stevep Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,547
    If it's getting that hot it's an indication of it running too lean as well.
    Sort out the carb jetting and air/fuel mix first, then see what happens with the rear caliper.
    Stands a chance that the brake fluid has boiled as well if it getting that hot.
    Plus the pads won't be very happy.
     
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  15. milo2025

    milo2025 Trip to Trumpton

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    727
    Thanks for that. I'll get on the case this weekend :)
     
  16. Damjan

    Damjan Active Member

    Messages:
    152
    Rides:
    Baotian Falcon 50R
    White = death, im suprised your piston still holds.
     
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  17. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

    Messages:
    7,321
    What I was thinking too...
     
  18. milo2025

    milo2025 Trip to Trumpton

    Messages:
    727
    I checked the reservoir - empty. There was no break fluid! The warning light appears to have failed so that's the next thing to fix. Shame there's not a warning light to warn of faulty warning lights.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2019
  19. scubabiker

    scubabiker NITROJUNKIE

    Messages:
    7,321
    You probably don't have any pads left.
    If you just top it up its going to make things a whole lot more complicated.
    There is no warning light for brake fluid.
     
  20. milo2025

    milo2025 Trip to Trumpton

    Messages:
    727
    That would explain why I didn't see a warning light, and yes you're totally correct. Just an oil warning light pretty much. I've ordered new pads so until they arrive and I fit them the scoot is taking a well earned break.
     

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