NRG WONT REV UP!!

Is the bronze plate fitted to the mouth of your carb ? I'm guessing it's not, if its not your 60 main jet will be too small.

 

I don't know yet earliest I will be locking at my bike will be this Friday when I fit the rollers I will get back to you after I fit the roller and check out the jet

 

Oh ok i though you already had the carb of when you put the 60 jet in. When you check look for gold colored plate with small holes fitted at the start of the carb where the airbox connects. If it's there happy days if not it will require upjetting as it will be running lean which will risk overheating and seizing the engine.

 

The exact reason i asked about the top end.

 

Okay

 

Standard roller weight s on a 2006 NRG is 6.4 grams.
If the brass plate is out the back of the carb you will need to up-jet, plus with the tachnigas exhaust you will also need to up-jet.
Does it still have the standard airbox fitted?
If yes, then I would be inclined to agree with gillyrider that:
1: Lighter rollers around 5/5.5gr
2: Up-jet the carb to suit the pipe and rollers.
3: The cdi is not restricted.

The other thing is, whats the condition of the belt like?

 

I've got some 5g rollers here and am fitting them on Friday I will take a look at the belt as well and see what condition that is in. My jet is at 60 now and doesn't seem to be running that bad but I'm going over the whole bike Friday looking at the carb and variator

 

I will Astro be tuning it to hopefully get it to idle at 2000rpm-2200rpm and have it come back down quick after revving it. Atm after I give it a rev it likes to stay at 5000rpm probably just not tuned correctly as of yet

 

Can I ask as well. When I give it full throttle it does bog down a bit and really struggle to pick up the revs again is that due to the main jet or roller?

 

I've fitted new rollers (5g) it revs a lot higher and quicker now but still bogs down before 1/4 throttle and full throttle so I'm guessing I need a bigger jet, the belt is in good condition and is it worth buying a variator kit becuase my friend has a polini race kit (variator and exhaust and is getting 61-65 out of his?

 

One thing at a time, sort out your jetting and rollers then think about the variator. It won't matter if you put in a super slick mad Jim's racing sporty variator if your carb is spluttering.
Stick with your 5g rollers and now look at the jetting guides on this forum. Understand what affects 0-1/4, 1/4 - 1/2, 1/2 - 3/4 and full throttle and eliminate each issue.
Make marks on your throttle with tape and ink so you know where the quarter, half and three quarter points are. Run the bike and note at which point it bogs/ shudders. Then post your exact findings on this forum with as much detail as you can. Imagine you are writing a story from pull away right through to top speed, explain exactly what happens between each stage. Let us know which position your needle clip is in as well. People can give better specific advice and resolve the issue quicker. Try to do this on a long flat stretch if possible. If you add hills into the equation then you'll get people giving you Contraspring advice which might get confusing.
And make sure the brass plate between the air box and carb is IN, as previously advised do not remove it as its not a restrictor , its an air flow guide which if removed can give additional problems.

 

Okay I will try marking the throttle, and when you say the brass plate are you talking about the one behind the air box that leads into the carb, becuase I have watched videos on tuning nrgs and they have said remove that plate it improves performance but I have not removed it or even attempted to find it. And does anyone have any idea why my throttle is quite sticky like it Pulls against you when you try accelerating

 

The throttle should have some resistance as its sprung loaded to ensure that when you let go it returns to zero. If it doesnt return and holds open then check the cable to see if there are kinks or its catching. Check at the carburetor end as it can get sticky here. If you are saying its stiff to turn then check its not too tight . Again check the ends of the cable to ensure the cable ends are sat inside the connection sleeves properly.
The throttle should be smooth but firm to twist with some spring resistance but not difficult . If it pulls hard against you then check the spring return in the throttle handle.

 

Yes the brass plate sits in the pipe at the junction of the airbox and carburettor. It has a series of holes in it which allow the correct air flow. Removing it simply allows a full flow of air through to the carb making it very lean and requiring further upjetting. It does more than just restricting air flow but i cant recall its full job.

 

creates eddys and vortexes in the carb to help atomization of the fuel, some scoots they are a carb restriction device, in others they are used to help with air flow through carb and inlet manifold , thats what i have been lead to believe .

 

Okay I will look it all over and get back to you as soon as

 

Update: tried changing jets, turns out my jet that was in there was a 53 and my mechanic had been playing me about removing parts and stuff, my float did not even have a pin/screw in. Am taking it to a garage Thursday earliest to get it fully serviced and running well. Atm petrol is peaking from carb becuase of faulty screw and seal. Thank you all for the help I have cracked down on the problems and will be getting them all looked at I will keep updating in the forum for anyone who cares to see