i heard someone say that liquid cooled piaggio engines are only faster than air cooled because they got a better ignition, i was wondering what part of it was better? ive put a liquid cooled stator & flywheel in my air cooled engine but it looked the same? is a liquid cooled cdi box better than an air cooled?
Re: liquid cooled ignition nope as far as i can work out the lc engines are only faster down to the gearing mate
Re: liquid cooled ignition lc/ac are identically geared if its the same modle bike in question.. this little snippit of information is basicly related to the pants ac 125 cdi.. wc bikes are no quicker than ac bikes in stock form, the ac will loose performance as it heats up but this only happens in traffic really.. wc's do have a finer tollerance and do run more evenly but its NOT a big enough issue to make one stock bike faster than another.. the fact is most stock ac bikes are a little worse cut than there wc counterpart as the cylinder costs more so will obviously have more work done, what other appeal could they have to sell the wc in the first place if it wasent that smidge faster? but ye.. ac 172 is JUST as fast (if not faster) than a wc 172 wiht the same ignition. air is easier to move than water
Re: liquid cooled ignition minnor, what can be done to improve the AC ignition then pal ? new rotor ?
Re: liquid cooled ignition throw it away and use a lc one? just gotta thread some holes so you can have youre fan on aswell
Re: liquid cooled ignition ye, ditch it and just throw a runner stator/cdi/flywheel on there.. it has th holes to screw the fan on there just not threaded, dont take 2 mins to thread one.
Re: liquid cooled ignition Same thing i done!!!!! just used some self tapping screws to secure the fan..... Bang on with the hole l/c's ment to be faster as i keep leavin all the gilly boys n some ov em claim to be flowed n ported... infact one bike had a MRT bore on it...... i slylie got a map of it couse it siezed (comon wid the gilly boys) as gaskets blow n water seals brake or water pumps fail.... Air cooled all the way FTW.......
So much wrong info on here, for starters the red CDI is very different to the AC one as the red one has stepped ignition, this allows for a higher rev limit hence why WC bikes can redline and AC tend to max out around 6.5k revs. AC setup cannot be used with a LC engine as will slow it the hell down and trying to cool a LC bore using a fan is ridiculous. WC engines are built to rev higher, handle more temp and push out more power. LC ignition allows you to rev higher with an AC kit but the stator and CDI need to be LC or they will not work (example LC CDI with AC stator) etc etc. The change over of AC for LC ignition is simple, remove flywheel, unbolt stator and replace with LC, bolt the flywheel back on and swap the black CDI for the LC red one and your off, another 3-4k revs to play with, just bare in mind long rides will MELT your engine as AC fans are not able to cool the amount of heat generated by 172 AC kits, other possiblities are melted pistons, crank failure etc. The list goes on, the best thing to do is swap the whole engine for LC (Hexagon 125 2t, Gilera SP 125 2t etc) Sorry to bring up an old thread but was bugging me to put this right and potentially save a 16,17,18 year old a fairly rare class of moped now
I know its an old thread ...but,has anyone tried the HPI [horsepower ignition] inner rotor setup/,I,ve got one that Im going to try,but setup is a little tricky as rotor has no keyway and im worried about getting the timing spot on.Im going to try it on the Watercooled engine first but want to use it on our aircooled race engine eventually.
The HPI kits are very good for race setups but for road use I wouldn't recommend as it is very difficult to get the loom wired in with the new rotor kit, also the power output is mainly directed to the HT coil and not for the lights and stuff so again, excellent for power and daytime ragging but if you plan to use the bike on the roads at night its a lot of work. All that aside if the extras are bought (2stage ignition switch / bolt on fan / 20w feed for lights) then the bike could be setup for road use.... oh and going uphill would be a drag as no inertia force from that few hundred gram flywheel to keep the engine turning. I had a kit, set it up and never felt like I wasted so much money, sent it back in the end and just used a Gilera Runner CDI and Coil / pickup with a SRT lightened flywheel, and this was giving me roughly the same top revs and power output with a little less accel due to heavier flywheel. Its completely up to you but me personally I would not recommend.
Hi,Thanks,Ive fitted it to my W/C motor to give it a try,its a full race engine fitted to a grass track racing go kart,so light/charging arent an issue its basically the same specs as you engine,but we run a 35mmTMX Mikuni-racing on Sunday so will be interesting to see how much improvement we get.Did you run the black or red HPI cdi box ?....Im using the black one but seems to be fully advanced from startup ?-Pic of daughters A/C kart FYI