Fitting a Skipper 125/150 engine to a Zip 2T 2000 and onwards - Noob-friendly guide

Discussion in 'Scooter Projects' started by Brugernavn, Sep 5, 2020.

  1. Brugernavn

    Brugernavn New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Hello, my name is Kim, and I’m from Denmark, therefore English is not my first language, so please bear with me :)

    No one has written a good noob-friendly guide on this topic, so I will try and make one, this guide is not completed yet, so i maybe need inputs.
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    Welcome to my guide on wiring a Skipper 125/150 engine to a Zip 2T from 2000 and onwards, this guide is for people who wants everything working, like lights etc.

    Before we even begin, I have to say a HUGE thanks to Reece Bell from the UK, for helping me with this, we both learned a lot doing this from scratch on my Zip through messenger :)
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    Let's go!

    1.)
    You will need:
    Zip 2T Loom
    Skipper loom OR just the regulator
    Skipper CDI And Coil
    Tape, soldering iron etc. to plug stuff together.

    2.)
    Start by installing the Skipper CDI and Coil to the frame of your Zip
    Then connect the 4 pin connector from the engine to the CDI.

    3.)
    Then cut off the 6 pin connector on the Zip loom
    Then you will have everything looking like this:
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    4.)
    Then get the Skipper loom and cut off the regulator like pictured
    [​IMG]

    5.)
    Then cut off the connector with the two yellow wires and a small green wire in it (On the skipper loom)[​IMG]

    6.)
    Now connect the two yellows from the 125/150 regulator, to the two yellows from the plug you cut off earlier.
    (This makes power to your lights)

    7.)
    Then take the green wire from your Zip loom and connect that to the small green wire on the plug where the yellows you just connected are.
    (This is your ignition on/off wire for the engine)

    8.)
    And the two reds from the 125/150 regulator to the blue wire on your Zip loom, if you only have one red, just connect that.
    (The red wires coming from the regulator, makes power to the battery and up to the ignition switch on the Skipper
    On the Zip, the ignition switch gets power through the blue wire that goes to the fuse and on to the battery for charging)


    9.)
    Take the white wire from the 125/150 regulator and the blue/grey wire from your Zip loom and connect that to the white wire on the ignition key connector on the Zip, this is switched live.
    (The white wire from the 125/150 regulator goes through the skipper fuse box and onto the ignition, i think its for switching on the regulator?.
    The blue/grey wire on the Zip loom is coming straight from the Zip’s own regulator, this activates the headlamp, taillight and instruments)

    10.)
    The black wire from the 125/150 regulator needs to go to ground on the chassis.
    [​IMG]
    This is just a mockup to show how the wires should be connected! do not install it like this on your Zip, water will get in the eletrics etc.

    The white wire you can see in the picture above,running over the laptp and up to the front, is connected to the white wire on the ignition, again this is only for reference, you need to splice it in when you are done.
    [​IMG]

    11.)
    I wanted to keep the orignal zip regulator, as this controls your blinkers, but you can remove it and connect the skipper blink relay relay, then take the white wire from the 125/150 regulator, to red/white on the relay, and blue/grey from the zip loom, to the other pin of the relay.
    (No pictures unfortunately)

    12.)
    Ignore the grey and brown wire from the 125/150 regulator, the brown wire is for the skippers charging light in the dash, and the grey is for the auto choke and carb heater
    (Maybe i will update this guide to make this work too).

    12.)
    Some pictures of how i did my Zip, the heatshrinks have solder in the middle, so this is very easy and waterproof :)
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    This setup where i mounted the regulators on top of eachother did'nt work as the regulators was too thicc, so the rear fender would not fit.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    This shows how i taped everything up

    [​IMG]
    And I'm almost done.

    Hope you can use this guide, this took way longer than i wanted it to ;)
     
    Andy D, ramo and Sam phantom like this.
  2. ramo

    ramo GoldMember

    Messages:
    1,572
    Great guide! I'm sure many will use it in time. Welcome to the forum:)
     
  3. Brugernavn

    Brugernavn New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Hi! Thanks!
    I sure hope so, maybe this should be sticky so people dont have a hard time finding it? :)
     
  4. TAJLN

    TAJLN New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Why not use the original regulator for 2 stroke zip and connect lights to dc. Less work and should work fine
     
  5. Brugernavn

    Brugernavn New Member

    Messages:
    5
    The skipper stator puts out too many volts for it to work. :)
     
  6. TAJLN

    TAJLN New Member

    Messages:
    15
    According to the manual there is like 1V difference
     
  7. Brugernavn

    Brugernavn New Member

    Messages:
    5
    it still doesnt work i tried it :)
     
  8. TAJLN

    TAJLN New Member

    Messages:
    15
    A year and a half later I finnally got around to test this in practice. Just as I suspected, it is possible to fully reuse the 50 2 stroke loom without any issues. You just need to rewire lights to dc and do a weird connection where you only use the charing half of a regulator. It was done on a 50cc gilera runner loom with a 180cc engine
     
  9. Brugernavn

    Brugernavn New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Make a guide m8 :D
     
  10. TAJLN

    TAJLN New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Yellow from engine to yellow on loom
    Other yellow from engine to blue on loom
    Green from engine to green on loom

    On regulator, you need to find the wire that outputs ac. (Grey if you have dimmer switch, black and yellow if not). You cut it and then connect the side that goes into the loom to the +12 power wire on the regulator. (White on older regulators, red and blue on newer ones)
     
  11. Mlh172nrg

    Mlh172nrg New Member

    Messages:
    2

    I don't get the last bit there bud about

    "You cut it and then connect the side that goes into the loom to the +12 power wire on the regulator. (White on older regulators, red and blue on newer ones)"

    So you cut the (grey/black&yellow) and join it to the (white/red&blue) and indicators and lights still work off the 50 loom.

    I'm fitting skipper 125 2t in a 50 nrg mc3
     
  12. TAJLN

    TAJLN New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Yes, normally the regulator would output 12v ac current to that wire, but when you cut it and connect to white/red&blue you are providing it dc current. Lights don't care which type of current they recieve, also this way your lights will light up when you turn the key insted of when you turn on the engine, which will prevent flashing at low rpm. I haven't noticed any downside when performing that mod. Just make sure to isolate the ac output from the regulator on the cut wire.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2022
    Mlh172nrg likes this.
  13. Mlh172nrg

    Mlh172nrg New Member

    Messages:
    2

    So the grey/black yellow will need to be capped coming out of the regulator as it will still be live but not connected to anything?
     
  14. TAJLN

    TAJLN New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Correct
     
  15. Magnus

    Magnus New Member

    Messages:
    1
    hey I’m doing the conversion on my runner sp50. But my wiring is not the same colours. Can you help?
     

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