First time vinal wraping lol

Vinyl turned up 1ftx5ft in a roll and not folded sheet.

colour wise its more a matte burnt copper than a matte chrome orange but it looks nice. got a couple of old bust up floor runner panels i will skin first see if it looks ok, then i will main order in 4x 2x5ft rolls ( should be enough to do the whole panel set ( front-wheel fender-wheel scoop- floor runners - body sides - rear tail /bodyside joiner)

just one runner panel done in the matte chrome orange, i really do like this colour myself, laid on without NO HEAT but its got some faults so next time i will run a hairdryer/heatgun to help conform it and remove kinks and bubbling

 

looks good did it take long

 

that one panel without heat took about 15 mins. did it on my own so had to keep lifting and adjusting .

when your laying you need to work in triangles ie pulling in certain directions , otherwise the film wants to bunch up and start peaks in areas.
i am going to do my front headlight panel on the scooter but rope my dad and my niece in to help. me and dad will taught the film and niece will blast it with heat to make it more supple. then we will pull it over the panel making glass , then i can finish with slight lifting and heat to get rid of any bubbling or creases.

the above film does not have air release channels or pockets so its more harder to layout.

 

Platsi dip spray is more harder, first of you have to prime with the plasti dip black/white, then you MUST shoot over plasti dip colour, or go staring tin with plasti dip colour. problem is shooting it on the panels. i am not sure you can warm water bath plasti dip so your going to have to lay it on fairly thick due to the cans spray tip, then your cannot sand it back if you get any dirt /dust under or in that coat layer, try sanding it out and you back to plastic again.

Major problem with bikes is you have to de-grease/wax the panels and they have more curves than you average car, ie wheel well scoops - body scoops etc etc these make for a pain in the rear to lay down on and get glass , above 170 degrees is the best temp to get vinyl to comform to hard curve in and likes, on a car not so bad being metal body work but a bike/scoot its a risky job.

and degreaser/waxer has to be plastic safe.

the panel lifted after only two days sitting, bubbled up where i had degreased and tension pulled where i had conformed to corners and curves.
even heating and re-seating had no effect, 5 mins later vinyl lifted again in exact same places.

Going old school now, gray sanding primer - shimmer silver base - electric orange colour - and 5-7 2k clearcoats with wetsanding in between, then a buffing compound and finish with polish compound