et2 rat project.

malossi belt and 5g polini rollers, seem to have gained 1-2mph on the speedo. presumably from the new belt, 5g seems to be the perfect roller weight too.

 

Told ya 5g would work well! Thats what im running with a Malossi iron kit and a zx, goes like a stabbed rat off the line!

You can now fine tune it by trying 4.8g rollers and 5.2g rollers to see if you can squeeze a little more out of it, you can also try mixing different weights like 3 x 4.8g & 3 x 5.2g. :thumbsup:

When that new belt wears in your see a slight improvment, they need to reach full running temperature once or twice to wear in properly so take it for a long ride, 50miles or so and that should do the job nicely.

 

I dont really belive in running in 70kits, only on brand new stock engines and 4T's I would consider running in. I said 50 miles for the new belt not the kit.. When I fit a new kit I let it warm up properly, then take it out for a proper ride getting the engine upto full temps, varying the throttle and short bursts of full throttle.. No point in running in a 70kit imo, obviously dont thrash a new one but no point pissing about at half speed for a week.

My Malossi kit has round 2500miles on it, hard miles from the box and it runs fine, and I dont care if it wont last that little bit longer.. Their only £90, cheaper than a weeks shopping to an average family.

 

noticed it was running a bit rich on idle and part throttle so i had a look at the carb and noticed i never reconnected the snorkel that goes from the airbox to the scoopy thing under the seat. reconnected this and things changed instantly,throttle started to race, so i moved the needle back to the top and got a load of torque back, (prolly moved it down too far when setting up originally), another thing i noticed, I never bothered with one of the vacuum feeds on the carb.(the ones near the slide) one of them was used for the fuel tap vac but i left the other open (again covering this changed the mix abit)


so tomorrow i get to have the fun in setting up the carb again :grin: (i strangely enjoy these things)


another thing i noticed today which didnt happen yesterday, I went for a full throttle run out the main road, before 50mph it bogged back for a few mph then accelerated back up and bogged again like somthing was snagging or restricting it, i changed the belt like any other by pulling the rear pulleys apart and it doesnt seem like a carburettion problem so the tranny can get stripped and rebuilt again. rollers gone in are polini 5g.

 

Minor, I'm only telling him what I've read in the instruction manual (for the belt), Polini reccomend you get the belt upto full running temperature before you will notice any gains/to get max performance, and Id imagine its the same/very simular process for the Malossi belt too.
Yeh you dont HAVE to do this, but its what the manufacture reccomends.

As for running in iron kits, do what ya like... I never told him to ride 50kms non stop, I said take it for a long ride around 50kms or so to get the belt upto temps and to give that new engine a proper drive out. Sure he can stop to let it cool down, I didnt tell him not to.

Also, 50kms is best part of what? 30 miles.. Why shouldnt you be able to ride 30miles non stop without over heating?? Surely somethings wrong if it does, unless you ragged it flat out everywhere.

Yeh, not a good idea to take it for long non-stop rides whilst "running in", but I certainly dont just ride up the road and back then let it cool off, when I run in my engines I take them for decent little rides at a time (5miles or so), by the time ive got the thing setup nicely then I consider "running in" complete.

But belive what you want, theres several different ways for running in engines, gental break in's and hard break in's.. Or abit of both which I do, gental at first while setting up, then once setup is nice I ride like I normally would.

 

how would i block it off? i know several ways that would be permenant but i dont want that, there is no actual vac line on the engine that is meant to connect to it,

 

marked the bits in question but they are blocked off on the pictured carb. I have the fuel tap vac on one and the other is open

 

rebuilt the transmission twice today, gone back to the 4.7's but more on that later, the bogging still remains as before but now i reckon its running over rich (or hope anyway LOL), ive also taken the snorkel back off to emulate the same as before but no dice.

basically whats happening is when it gets near top speed it bogs untill i roll off the throttle and slow down a bit,if i hold the throttle during the bog i have to wait a bit longer before i get revs back but for a short little bit so i reckon my main jet is too big for my setup


starting from cold with no choke had alarm bells rining , and the fact that every other similar setup jets about 10 sizes smaller.


the first run from the engine after starting lets me upto top speed without bogging too so i think the tranny is ok and i have a carb to look at.


or of course the top end could be trying to tell me ive fucked but i dont know :rotfl: at least that would be an excuse to get a malossi or polini kit



oh well, always a learning curve.
thanks to minor and anyone else who helped me out aswell

 

I doubt youv've fucked it mate, those DR kits are pretty damn strong and should handle a fair bit of abuse!

Do some plug chops and decide if you need to downjet or not. If it were running overly rich then wouldnt it not even make it anywhere near top speed? Normally if my bikes running really rich it'll bearly rev or move, and throw out thick smoke all over the place.. If too lean it'll go, but bog down when you apply full throttle.

 

not letting me past 30 today, when it does it just bogs and i cant get it restarted without choke. might rip the head off later for a look.

 

head off, everything inside is grand looking, back on and torqued, off for a test, YAY my scooter is normal again, couple of hours later, fuck sake problems back!

 

real delly bought from sip, filled up yesterday and am premixing again, seems to have solved the problem temporarily even though my oil pump does work.(either that or its just coincidence) although the smell of 2t is actually noticable again now.