elystar 125 performance loss when hot

I have an issue with my new scooter and wondered if anyone can help. It's a 2003 elystar 125 efi with 5000 miles on the clock. When it's cold it seems to have good acceleration and top end speed. When it gets to its running temp of 80 degrees after around 15 mins, the acceleration drops off quite noticeably and it struggles to reach its top speed on a length of road it can do when cold. It feels like a 50cc on the slightest incline or hill, if you go down hill then onto flat road it maintains its top speed fine but if you start from stationary on a flat road it struggles to get to that same speed.
The engine sounds the same hot or cold, I have checked gap of spark plug which seems fine, it was also a nice brown tint to it. I checked value clearances when it was cold and apart from a quick adjustment of inlet the gaps were almost bang on.
Checked air filter which was fine, a bit of oil in bottom of air filter housing I noticed but put my finger in intake which was bone dry.
A biker friend had a look at it and thinks it sounds fine, but he had a go hot and cold and noticed a difference.
He did say that when decelerating he felt the clutch not disengaging till very last moment and felt like he was fighting slowing down to a stop, but as he hadn't rode autos didn't know if its sposed to be like that? It does that hot or cold. I know what he means and I haven't felt it on any other auto scooters I've owned but never had a peugeot. Its as if theirs a delay of clutch disengaging when you let off throttle completly and from 20 mph to zero. It feels like your braking and pulling throttle at same time.

just wondering what next to check/inspect, like I say when its cold performance is fine.

 

have a look at the variator assembly make sure everythings ok there

 

Hi. That's where I was thinking of looking next but apart from worn rollers wasn't sure what else to look for.

 

Check the valve clearances - they may be set too tight, causing the valves not to close properly when the engine is warm.

 

Checked valve clearances when engine was cold and they were fine. I made the slightest adjustment to the inlet valve, the inlet should be 0.10mm and 0.25 for exhaust. The inlet I had a little over that so made the slightest of adjustment.

 

Well it looks like the fault has been found as broke down tonite!! Rear wheel locked solid with smoke coming from rear caliper area!!! bit annoying as first thing I checked days ago was that the wheels spun freely after a long ride and whilst it was hot which they did. Never had a brake smell though even when I rode it 140 miles home??

Rac came out and after being stood for 10 mins it was free again, he said the disk looked red on outside edge so brake had been getting hot

 

bike shop are waiting on peugeot but they think it's brake servo? No back brake working they said. I think they mean abs module so that's me up the swanny with the shortest vehicle I ever owned!!

 

Update and really need help. brakes fixed, still plays up when hot but i have new info!! I thought bike lost power when hot but it appears to lose its power after riding. If you ride it cold its fine for 15 20 minutes then it goes slow and struggles badly on any little hill. if you leave it ticking over on stand until its upto temp then ride it its fine until you ride it for 15 29 minutes. So the problem is not engine, brakes are all sorted its a cvt problem. The bike shop fitted new oe belt, rollers and ruffed up clutch?? but the problem is still their. The cvt cover gets hot but you can hold your palm on it though only just, not sure how hot it should get. The peugeot dealer that have it are struggling but tbh im not massively confident in them. Any ideas what they should be checking?

 

Have they checked the brake balance valve, as this bike has ABS? If the balance valve is sticking, it could cause intermittent brake binding.

I'd also get them to open up the clutch bell and check for any issues, as it sounds like they just 'roughed up' the pulleys. If the contra spring isn't pushing the rear pulleys back together on throttle back, due to the pulleys sticking on the shaft as a result of corrosion or a step worn in the shaft, that could also cock up the gear ratios and give strange symptoms.

 

One thing i forgot. When brakes were fixed and i got them to investigate this problem. They removed cvt and it had a nearly new belt fitted that was so lose he could almost remove it without stripping it down. They fitted new belt and heavier rollers (only ones they had). When i took bike away it was like a new bike much smoother, and top end was 70mph.but the acceleration was dangerously slow. It was all good for 4 days then i got on it and it was really really slow and when i stopped smoke was coming from cvt. They had it back and fitted standard rollers and said the heavy rollers were putting strain on things and causing belt to slip. Thats when i picked it up again and i was back to square one.

 

It was purchased privately via ebay. i think the problem is an old one as its strange it had a new belt.on it and also the wrong belt. The guy i bought it off owned it for 5 years and seemed genuine but obviously he was hiding the fact it had an underlying problem.

 

replace all the parts that would need replacing eventually anyway, clutch, rollers, belt, if you can - get into the gearbox and look for any chipped or damage teeth, replace the gasket and fill with new + correct gear oil. its also worth getting a compression check done, at cold the engine will be tight but as soon as it warms up everything gets loose. worth checking, it takes 2 minutes to do. if the brakes are fixed then that's that out of the window. were looking at performance loss here. are you sure you have the valve clearances set right to the manual? not all scoots are the same. I would also think it would be worth taking a look at what service history you do have (if any) with a fine toothcomb and seeing what was done and when and checking its all ok now. just to be safe.

that is the forum idiot above - knows fuck all, doesn't listen + learn and gets mad when told to shut up. its very rare id actually take his advice. don't give up as easily as he would - its worth fixing.

 

The Elystar 125 has the same fuel-injected engine and transmission as the Jetforce 125. These bikes are complicated, fragile and expensive to fix if the ECU starts to play up, as that's definitely a trip to the dealer. They can quickly become money pits, which is one of the reasons that these bikes sold as 'non-runners' or 'spares and repairs' are so cheap.

 

so a compression check which is a 2 second simple job, which could find the fault isn't worth doing? what part of it isn't worth doing? just checking to see what it could be? it could very well be low compression. worth doing a compression check to see if it is that or not. it could be something simple which by the sounds of it, it is unless its the ECU as merlin said. the things I said to check were all consumables which need to be checked and replaced regularly anyway. its worth taking the clutch off to get to the gearbox to simply check the teeth of the gearbox in there and putting a £5 bottle of oil and a £2.50 gasket in just to make sure.

but obviously I know fuck all. ill just go back to work in the garage I essentially run. just because you give up and run at the first sign of a issue doesn't mean everyone else should. you have a lot to learn kid.

ITS WORTH CHECKING!

once a compression check aswell as other checks have been made he then can decide on what to do.

ffs I really do give up.

 

Some people have no patience, Scootz. They would rather throw it away and get another one, than get stuck in, learn something about the bike and fix it. That's the Playstation Generation for you.

 

its times like these im thankfull for the way I was bought up.
ahhh yeaaahhh bludddd new scooter £900 innit bluuudddd - playstation generation.
ahh right, ill do a compression check, if its not that, ill quickly check some other simple things and it could be a £40 fix - the grown up and non playstation generation way of doing things.

when is it not worth sitting down, taking a look at a few simple things just to check them and rule it out. sitting down with some paperwork (if original poster has it - assuming he does) and going through it and seeing ahh right, the clutch may need replacing because it was last done at such and such miles or hell see the gearbox oil wasn't done at the last service. or a simple take spark plug out, screw compression tester in, turn engine over, check compression, just to make sure its not low compression. if it needs new piston rings, then its a simple choice to make. its how we learn. by not throwing things away.

I could of just scrapped my italjet by now. have I? no. what im doing is learning from it by repairing it and getting it roadworthy. there are things I cant do hence why im going to take it to stevep when I get stuck, but ive learnt.

a couple of simple checks could reveal a £30-£40 fix.

 

theyre not unreliable, its just unreliable when they aren't looked after properly and ragged around by loonies or teenagers. look after something properly and it can and generally will last.

I love it when people say - but I heard...
no. no. no. don't just listen. experience it and learn from it.

 

not always - they would see, ahh right, brakes locked up. fix the brakes. job done. they wont go over it with a fine toothcomb. they need to get the bike in and out as quick as they can so they can get another in and make even more money. its the way the industry is. its the same with a car garage. everything needs to be in and out quick, quick, quick, to make more money.

 

If he's prepared to get some spanners and have a go, I have a PDF copy of the Elystar / Jetforce workshop manuals. It's standard 125cc OHC stuff, apart from the fancy pants fuel injection.

 

Hi. The bike was cheap, its excellent condition with low miles 5000. I have no history for bike, i have given up on dealer so i will do compression test, change gear oil, cvt components 2nd hand £30, gearbox i can get 2nd hand for £30,when its trial and error i go with 2nd hand from a bike with 9000miles. id be interested in pdf workshop manual link. I am mechanically minded and have a mate to fall back on if stuck. Thought a dealer would save me money on trial and error but obviously not. Got a part refund which i will use to fund these parts. After that mite have to cut my loses, by then its owed me £500. Its taxed and mot till april next year. Valve gaps were checked to dealer specification. Thanks for advice and comments, its had its moments where run great so its fixable just how much it will cost.
i want to put slightly heavier rollers in to see what that does, but i dont know standard weight or what weight to go for. when dealer put too heavy ones in the bike was cured for 4 days but had zero acceleration, top end it went like stink!! but then i had the smoke as they said they were too heavy and put oe original back in. They showed me the new belt they fitted was fraid on edges and replaced it, an experianced biker mate rode it today and he thinks its hitting its rpm limit? but not the speed to match.
At the minute it gets me 2 work and back at nite at a cost of £20 a month on fuel, the car costs me £120 in fuel hence not giving up just yet. im stubbern!!!

I used to think the problem was when the engine got to 80 degrees, it isnt, its when its been ridden for a while (so basically when the drive train gets hot) thats when the problem starts. If you leave it ticking over for 20 mins then ride it its fine, then 15 mins of riding it slows down,
If i only went to work and back i could live with it till it run out of mot and save £100 a month in fuel but i like the bike and want to do more than just commute to work