Bmw 316i Audio (speakers)

Discussion in 'General Chat' started by Jamie, Feb 11, 2009.

  1. MiNoR cOnFuSiOn

    MiNoR cOnFuSiOn Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,276
    Rides:
    et2 monster
    my fav is 6" in all the doors (if its a 2 door then 2 in the rear quarter's) 6x9's on the shelf, mabey some 4"'s in the dash and a set of seperate tweets to compliment.. components are good but i prefer the door/sides to be completly seperate.. can amp them up a little more then. run ONLY the tweets form the head unit.. high low the 4 channels into the amp (if theres no front and rear pre out) then run the sub and 6x9 amp from the rca output. this way you can control ALL the singular speakers properties (obviously split the rca to the rear into two amps.. then apply low pass filter to the subs and trim out the trebblke and bass with the amp... the 4 doors you control via the 4 channel amp and the head unit adds the mid and top for the tweats... BASICLY this way means you can prittymuch run ANY speakers in combi (match the amp to the speaker) and not have bass/trebble setup issues... or get an expensive parametric eq and run 16 sing\ular speaker channels through it.. there will be a power drop this way but its UUBER ajustable...
     
  2. DYS VTR

    DYS VTR New Member

    Messages:
    1,757
    Rides:
    skanky cRaKwhoR3s
    shit forgot urs was the 4 door saloon, the front in the coupe's 13 but have to check the saloon (google ftw) all depends how much money u have/want to spend when it comes to car audio. presonaly i would NEVER run rear speakers in a 2 door hatch why..... why u need them LOL. if ur going sub on the bimmer and have a bout 500squid il make u a list of decent shit to go for ;)

    can also get hold of a alpine type s sub for 30 quid aswell if u want it
     
  3. Jamie

    Jamie Active Member

    Messages:
    5,370
    Rides:
    xt660x, 200sx s14a
    http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product ... -23160.htm thats the headunit im getting anyways... and i wana go for the most powerful sub i can tbh,

    and im not going to lie, im an absolute noob, i dont even understand what connects to what when it comes to the amps speakers subs and all that stuff, im trying my hardest to understand but cant ... ive got mates who do know, but i recon once i know how it all works and connects up and in what order, it will be easier for me to just fill a cart on that site, and see how much im willing to spend etc...
     
  4. Biggie

    Biggie New Member

    Messages:
    495
    Orion hcca 15''
     
  5. kyle1b1

    kyle1b1 New Member

    Messages:
    5,191
    a lad i know sells orions hcca's
     
  6. DYS VTR

    DYS VTR New Member

    Messages:
    1,757
    Rides:
    skanky cRaKwhoR3s
    would be usless in a bimmer bass is too low it would just vibrate that boot like mad :w00t:
     
  7. MiNoR cOnFuSiOn

    MiNoR cOnFuSiOn Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,276
    Rides:
    et2 monster
    armrest wiht a window cutout? come on LOL

    orions an directed are identical

    cars are easy, try a fuckin studio (i got what, 40 cables behind my HOME stereo/computer rig.. let alone stuido's)

    therees power in (2 forms, one constant (battery, red) one yellow(when ignition is on) altho you can bridge these but you ether loose the memory function or the inability to turn it on when the ignition is off...

    so thats yellow and red.. then you will have a couple of blue's out (one is antena, one is the amp if its a good stereo) it basicly sends low amp 12v to an electric areial or to the amp (it trips a relay inside flicking it on with the stereo so the amp isnt constantly fed but we will get to that)
    then theres the earth/ground/nutural wich is black.. this go's to metal. simple.

    so thats yellow red blue's and black.. one plug on the back of the head unit.. the other has pairs of white green purple and grey.. these are the positive and negative feed of the 4 speakers (front and rear left and right obv) these all usually just plug straight into any car these days so dont have to worry about them

    you have an aerial (easy)
    there will be atleast ONE rca lead coming out (you want fuckin millions tbh) red and white plugs like on stereo's/amps... prity obvious what these do. you may have another cable for an ipod or amp control/cd changer blah blah.. the manual will fill you in on anything i havent mentioned

    the amp.. peice of piss... the blue wire is obviously the switch or "remote" wire.. there is a positive and negative feed on the amp (needs a thick cable fed via a fuse to the battery.. all comes in the kit) then theres a negative. the negative you want short and straight to BEAR metal.. so get the sandpaper out and find a nice solidly mounted bolt or somthing you can whip off wihtout disturbing anything and o its not in the way... sand it, put the earth to it, paint over the lot.

    other end usually on the amp theres 2/4/6/8 lil speaker conections.. work them out, not hard.. there will be controls on the amp

    lpf means its a low pass filter, hpf means high pass filter, this is basicly "dont play the high sounds or dont play the low sounds. flick it, you will see.) there will be a cutoff control so you can vary what frequencey (how low or high) the removed sound starts.. just have a play but keep the volume low.. bridged means the same power and sound through both speakers in mono format. you want a single sub on a 2 channel amp wiht a positive on one side and a negative on the other (meaning one left speaker one right, clearly marked if its a sub amp) for 2 keep them in phaze (dont cross over negative and positive)
    there will be a gain/volume control... basicly set the rest of the speakers up wiht the head unit.. turn the vol up to max and then slowly wind the gain on the amp up... turn the vol down on the head unit when you think its right. if the amp is too overpowering for the speakers at low volume trim it out wiht the head unit.. then increase vol and reset the amp... this is all prity basic.. but should get you going ;)

    sure theres bits ive missed, sure people could pick it apart and correct bits, feel free.. its just the general idea.. setup is verry personal order wise but a properly setup system will be like a properly setup engine.., same levels at any volume.
     
  8. Jamie

    Jamie Active Member

    Messages:
    5,370
    Rides:
    xt660x, 200sx s14a
    cheers for that, just looked aswell. theyre only tweeters in the front doors, and other than that ive only got two speakers in the parcel shelf. o_O how gay..
     
  9. DYS VTR

    DYS VTR New Member

    Messages:
    1,757
    Rides:
    skanky cRaKwhoR3s
    dont be stupid! look right down next to the pedals and tuked up at the back under the glove box hides the front woofers ;) , if ur using more than 1 amp ALWAYS use the same earthin point, lowers spiking and saves time. always use decent cable 4 gauge at the minimum (dont know why they even make thinner stuff) for the power cable, replace the 3 main earth/nutrals from the batt with new 4 gauge. ull be suprised how upgrading ur wiring improves the sound quality and its reasonable cheep to do ;)
     
  10. Jamie

    Jamie Active Member

    Messages:
    5,370
    Rides:
    xt660x, 200sx s14a
    well i looked, and yeah there are some dusty old woofers right down there lol. but its all gona be a bollocks to change and that, im just gona get the speakers subs and amp and shit then take it to a shop, i dont know what im doing.
     
  11. DYS VTR

    DYS VTR New Member

    Messages:
    1,757
    Rides:
    skanky cRaKwhoR3s
    LOL told ya. yer there a proppa fucker to change and the tweeters aint fun either ( placed inside a palstic shell then glued in, then srewed to the door card) hence why i bought a glue gun from wollworths for £1.50 when they were closing down lol. ye the stock speakers are realy shit in e36.

    these guys know whet there doin to this car
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bC1oyyj5HoQ
     
  12. kyle1b1

    kyle1b1 New Member

    Messages:
    5,191

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