look... its ONE screw.. you tuirn it one way to makle it lean, the other to make iut rich.. if this confuses you just DONT TOUCH IT NEXT TIME
think ive cracked it now bought the haynes manual and it says pilot screw position 1 and 3/8 turns out so i turned it all the way in and done it 3 halfs back and a tiny bit in. runs ok now. im just gonna keep a look out to see if the temp light will come on. it was running way too lean before tho. :w00t:
ok since fixing out the carb ive drained and flushed coolant system and bled it by leaving it on tickover witht he cap off. i cleaned the outside of the thermostat as it was a bit rusty where the other cable connets to it. the only time the temp light comes on is when im going uphill and the bike struggles a bit but when i get to the top of the hill it comes off after it cools down a bit . i havent notcied any abnormal knocks or clunks etc im going to check my transmission when im next off work i know it needs a new set of rollers. what could be causing the light to come on?
Do what my mate did with my old rox.... rip the temp sensor off and fuck it..... hasn't come on since :rofl:
lol if only did yours do the same? i have a funny feeling it might be a wobbly connection somewhere thats causing it to come on for some reason. bt yeah fck knows i have checked for leaks etc but have found fck all.
did you use coolant to fill it back up? if not then drain it and fill it with coolant mixed with water, i'v had the problem with a bike overheating during long distances of like 18-25 miles so i filled more coolant and blead it several times.
yeah silkolene pre mix coolant i think its called pro cool or something. i filled it up and then left it runnin with cap off and then put cap on and rode it for about 5-10 miles and i noticed the coolant had gone down so i went home and filled it back up again.