Bert the Hongdou

oo now theres an idea
i went with a carrier bag at first, but the carb cleaner took all the printing off it, i got blue hands swapped it for some cardboard but by that point id pretty much finished

 

well that didnt work, popped out earlier, still bogging when it gets on the main jet under load. revs perfectly freely when its sat in neutral.

the in-law has mentioned timing. lol something else to get my teeth into

 

wouldn't even bother. get a front end smashed cg125 and swap everything over.

 

lol, would prob be cheaper and easier to send it in somewhere to get it looked over

 

there is that

 

or your just going to have nothing but shite from the engine and electrics and wish that you did the sensible thing and swapped everything out

 

haha, however the idea is that this was free, want it on the road for as little as possible. im not overly fussed how long it last me, as would like to move up to something better or faster at some point anyway.

but i see your point

 

hi all on this post...ive just read the whole lot from the start and now got a brain ache..before you do any carb fiddling,what color is your plug electrode.if its black/sooty your running rich and white/furry ..too lean..on the issue of the carb..there should be two screws to adjust..one is the air and other idle.idle simply stops your throttle slide/needle going too far down in to the jet..air screw adjusts the petrol atomisation of the incoming air through the carb internals..this one makes you mixture lean or rich...the only other things you can fiddle with are the needle position in the throttle slide and float hight and the choke....asuming the plug is light brown..start with checking that your throttle slide needle is in the middle position by unscrewing it from the carb..its the cap where the throttle cable goes into the carb.unclip it from the cable and it should all come free.if its in the mid position we got a start point. then screw the air screw in to the carb and count how many turns it takes.. if much more than 2.1/2 then it was wrong..from the fully in position,count out about 2.1/4 turns out and start the engine.if it revs its tits off...turn out the throttle slide adjuster screw till it ticks over gently...not slowly but steady and not hunting.its the one thats visible looking down the carb slide hole.if you cant get it to run slowish ,go back to the air screw and slowly adjust till its running steady.now go for a ride..when you get back..dont let the bike tick over and kill it.kill its engine immeidiatly...after a little cool down of the plug.take a look at the plug..if its light brown then your mixture is still good.if it still coughs after this then you have to investigate the needle slide hight one notch up or down at a time.each adjustment is followed by the throttle slide screw being adjusted if it revs its tits of..not the air screw mixture.only do the air screw if the plug has changed color.if it still does it after all the options in the slide then ide suspect the float hight cos if its coughing on full throttle ..sounds like fuel starvation.soggy top end response is the fuel air mixture usually..and thats a bit of a bugger to do over the internet..if you know what the emission readings are meant to be relative to your mixture you could adjust it all on a co2 meter.hope all that makes sense...

 

mmmm.carbs are a bugger.wont bore him with float hights till i know hes ready for it..then theres choke stuff..

 

need to get my roma bushes done and replace the brakes,do a service,check connections and loads of other stuff.the ignition barrel broke off the other day..now i gotta use a screw driver as a key..kin chinese quality..its breaking down and clearing with no logical cause.been doing it more in the wet so im suspecting its getting shorted some-where.all the indicator lights come on when it stops and cant turn them off with the key or switch...

 

hi jim, welcome to the thread thanks for the input, lots to be getting on with this week then

fingers crossed it sorts it

 

righty whipped out the spark plug to sort of guage what ive been up to. is black and sooty, which would suggest rich mix

gunna have a fiddle with the screws, see if i can get it right. hopefully its jsut running too rich

 

hmm hopefully youll be hanging around jimmy

on the carb ive got 2 screws one pilot screw, all the way in atm. other is throttle stop screw, needs to be around 3 turns out for the bike to not rev its tits off


sorry im a complete noob, but dying to learn, and get this sorted asap

edit*
oky the pilot screw needs to be in fully or it runs rich (give it a rev check spark plug)

 

throttle stop screw i think is the culprit or soemthing its connected to, if ive got it in abit the bike revs abit more, but seems to like the ride. once i lower the revs its caughs once you give it some extra throttle

 

had a ride on my step dads kymco 125 today.
lots of fun everything just worked, and worked well. but then it is an 08 reg
its a damn sight heavier than bert though, wow gave my self cramp in my calf getting it off its side stand lol.
but i think its the same size as a 250, and as im thinking of getting a 250 next year i may aswell get used to it

 

hello s.k..the air screw is the one that you need to adjust to lean it up.its rich as it is..the throttle stop screw is only there to keep it from dying on you by keeping the needle in the right position in the jet.if you screw in the air screw till it is all the way in and then take it out 2.1/2 turns its a start point..you will probably need to adjust your throttle screw to balance the revs.the thottle screw is the one that you can see if you take your carb off and look through the carb.depending on the type of carb it is ,you mite have to operate the butterfly by hand..use the bit where the cable goes and it will open up..then youle see the slide..at the bottom of the slid youle see a screw end that belongs to the screw on the outside..that one can be unscrewed till it dont do anything..the other one is the airscrew.if youve got an adjuster on your cable connection plate thingy at your carb end then slacken that off too...that keeps your butterfly in the right opening position.right..all screws slack..air screw 2.1/2 turns out from fully in..start your engine..turn the throttle screw till it ticks over gently.then adjust the cable lever thingy plate screw till the revs dont rise.then see how it goes..im not very good at writing descriptions of what to do if i dont see the carb but if the air screw is about 2.1/4 to 2.1/2 turn out,you aint gonna do any damage..if it revs its tits off,just adjust what you can see out-wards and if it drops..stop when its slowly revving..then adjust any other screws you see as you need..as you go..had a bit of bother with mine today..cleaned the plug and got it running..went for a blatt and conked out again..dropped the plug between the head and the cover..pushed it home..new plug on monday and see what happens.think i got carb float hight issues as it dies and then starts again..but see if the new plug fixes it first..it is old.else i gotta take my panels and carb off..AGAIN..getting bored with it to be honest..

 

you really are a legend jim, will try and get my head round it all later today/tomorrow