Bert the Hongdou

at what point in the rev range does your coughing happen..theres a bit of a jet overlap where the main and pilot share duties...was thinking that it could be the needle not in the right position in the throttle slide and this could be the problem..mines at the highest setting and revs like a pig no matter what i do,i think that the needle being to far up (curclip on lowest groove) is making the jet open too much..gonna try and lower it later and see what happens..if your needle is too low it might be upsetting the transition from one jet to the other and nausing the carburation a bit..good luck with your switch...mine needs replacing too but i dont fancy taking all the panels off again so a screw driver is a good key till then..

 

erm, my rev counter doesnt work so i cant tell you exactly. but i think its more once you open the throttle more than a certain point that it starts coughing

as for the barrel, it is hopefully a quick pull on a wire to bring the conector block into view, then swap. but is more likely to be a cut and shut the wires as i think the block on the new one is different to the old one, but will try some other day as its raining.
oh and the barrel has turned up with no keys. so got another couple of weeks before the seller sorts me out with another one and gets it delivered from china.

p.s jsut read it came by air mail, no wonder it was so quick

 

i had a whole bike sent from india and they sent the wrong bike...right keys..went back and complained...the look on the geezers face was a picture...he sent my bike to a man in devon...i got his bike...he said"why dont we swap keys and ride halfway and swap bikes"..no idea ide spent loads getting the thing running and customised...gotta be carefull with overseas deals.

 

wow thats a nasty story. luckily i didnt end up with completly the wrong item

 

i got a new but rusty bird shit covered 500cc enfield bullett and the other guy got a chrome red brand new 350..i stripped mine down and rebuilt some of it and got bored with the quality...like chinese...gave it to my mate in the end with 67klm on the clock..a week later he finished it and sold it for £900...didnt even give me a bung..nice to know who yor mates are..

 

wow thats abit harsh, if it were a couple hundred it wouldnt be too bad, but 900 youd expect abit of it

 

ok head scratching with annoyance time

was taping up the seat as i got an aweful wet patch last time i was sat on it, knew the choke is abit fidly and pulls itself on i taped it off while i was at it

took it for a long ride, never missed a beat, ran perfectly, smells abit as i need to lower the mix a tad from last time i was playing with the carb, but other than that seemed fine. will whip the plug out in a min and have a butchers

 

bugger me...finally sorted.give it a once over and take it for a blatt.dont worry too much if its a bit rich.you know how to adjust it so shouldnt be a prob.mines been out for a blatt and cut out after getting round the corner...then started after a wait then stopped again..and again...and again..think im gonna have to whip the carb off and check the float hight..looks like im not getting enough petrol through to the bowl one way or another..could be a sticky petrol valve..went nice though after the needle was adjusted to the middle notch and ive taken out the carb restrictor too..or just get a better carb if all else fails.variator washer check next i think

 

hehe it does feel good getting somewhere with it, was looking at the MOT checks and i think if i whip out the front brake switch again and hide it i should get away with it not working, then just prey he doesnt notice it not showing with the lights on.

gunna grab a few bulbs and then blag the mrs to let me mot it

 

if the wiring aint fitted then it should pass..usually only a fail if its got things fitted and not working..after a certain year some cc bikes have to have things but so long as its got a rear switch you should be ok..indicators should work and horn obviously..and stop switch.the high beam should have an idiot light so YOU know its on high...and it should all work at the same time and not effect the operation of the other lights or items..if you have a gander on google for the rules and do the best you can,think you should be ok...find out if theres any old school bike rider mot stations in your area and you could find you sail through..mine had loose head/fork bearings and dodgy rear brakes and passed.

 

lol, hmm looks like ill need to wait for the new ignition barrel then before it goes for MOT
have to stall the bloody thing atm. may jsut have a go at wiring in a switch for now though

 

if youve wired a switch in to turn on all the system then your half way there,the cut off can be a wire that shorts to earth from your coil feed..one of them chrome horn switches from a scrambler style bike is a good example..just take a wire from the coil that carries the juice wire and wire it to the switch and then put the other end to the frame..thats it..cuts out by shorting ignition to earth..

 

if you got access to the main switch wires to turn it all on,you can use a normal switch wired into those wires too.so long as its secure it dont matter where you put the switches for the mot

 

atm i have 2 wires to the 'barrel' (whats left of it) then positive and earth joined together to give the electrics. im thinking join the other two to a switch and that will kill it?

 

ide say it would be worth a go.if it stops when you do it,,,its a kill switch.

 

will have a go now.

edit* nope doesnt work, ah well plan b. if it goes for MOT before the barrel shows up ill just say it has a kill switch, the clutch lever

 

ok, all bulbs working, the rear light being iffy was an easy fix. where the light would come on as the brake light, and the brake light came on as the normal light so you cant tel i was breaking.
was simply a case of turning the bulb around, lol

front brake light switch still not working, but i think its time for an MOT

 

booked in for a mot tomorrow. £25 but i bet they rip me off with the failure list

 

haha, moved the bike to lock it up, and noticed my front brake light switch is working now

i fettled with the wiring earlier but it didnt seem to make a difference, now all is well

so from what i can tell its gunna need a number plate and the ignition barrel (or a switch, but i cant work out how)

 

well it just needs a switch that turns it on and off so if you wire a connector in to use as an on switch and then put the stop wire on to the starter switch..disconnect the starter wire you can use that as the kill.find what wire of the two kills the engine when its shorted to earth and then disconnect the starter feed wire from the starter solonoid/relay and bolt it to earth then connect the wire that stops the engine to the other wire on the start switch(disconect it from any feed too)..now it should short the wire to earth and stop your engine when you press it..make sure you disconnect both sides of the switch from any voltage feeds first so that you dont blow a fuse by shorting the starter motor voltage feed to earth..if that dont work then disconnect the earthed wire and feed the other wire that goes to the ignition barrel to the other side of the switch..so what your doing is putting the two wires you use as a stop on the start switch after disconnecting all the start wires..