Bert the Hongdou

hi sk..no probs mate. had a thought....how far into the carb have you been?have you done a proper full tank/carb clean up?as mark pointed out,the gummy petrol residue from the dried out petrol will be a bugger for good running as its a sticky gooey mess...if it aint cleaned out TOTALLY it will take a while to wash through the carb..the jet holes are tiny and only needs a bit of crap in them to give you grief.hope you get it sorted though,nice to see another chink bike getting fixed..they aint bad bikes as such....just not as good as what their copies of..if you fix it right when it goes wrong using good quality parts and look after it i think youle be happy..not saying you wont be swearing at it on a regular basis but you will have to put a bit of time into it to stay on top.jap bikes were like it in the late 60s.. i remember my father moaning about the ones his friends had bought and had grief with..but they came good in the end..they copied our stuff..now the british stuff are copies of theirs...gonna have a go at my carb tomorrow if the plug issue dont pan out..and the rear brake switch needs looking at too...gotta stay on top of it..as for replacing bits...ide say dont ,unless you really have to.its so much better to have the knowledge to fix a problem than to waste money..if it breaks down at the side of the road ...you cant send off for a new part.good luck..keep us posted

 

thanks jim, i didnt clean out the tank so i suppose some crap could stil be getting through.

i do fuly intend on getting it on the road as cheap and as quick as poss
bought a front brake light switch the other day so thatll be one thing less to worry about.

dont suppose you know what you need on the dash to get through the MOT? thinking i might get away with not buying a new set of clocks. need to change a bulb in the indicator flasher, probably the high beam bulb but i have a bicycle speedo wired up so wont need the speedo to work

 

hello sk.the mot says you dont need a speedo to be working for the mot..but you do need a high beam dash light.indicators must flash between 60-120 per minute.only need a indicator dash light if you cant see the main bulbs flashing while your riding.depending on the age of the bike..you dont need a front brake to operate the stop light but if ones fitted its supposed to work..but rear is deffo needed.im not 100% sure if the emissions are tested on your cc size but its a simple twist of the air screw on the co2 meter at the test to get them down (usually)not a bad thing in its-self if you aint sure if the mixtures wrong anyway.mine wasnt tested..visible smoke test only..brakes are done on the rollers and the tester decides if their good or bad if hes got no data on what their meant to be..i could push mine with the rear on and it passed..but your tester might not be so forgiving..tread on the tyres are minimum 2mm as far as i know and no splits or lumps out of them...common sense will tell you if their safe.seat must be locked down securely..again it dont need to be factory lock but musnt be able to be flapping about ....apart from that i think if you go over it and find anything that you dont like the look or feel of,fix it and you should pass.didnt get my plug today so mines still off the road..coming tomoz...hopefully

 

..horn should work un-affected with all the lights on including the stop light and vise versa..if you got any nuts that look like theyve got pins to go in them...fit with pins or R clips and if the forks top legs are rusty fit covers and hose clip them down..if they leak its a fail but the mot states the man cant undo anything to check

 

oo thanks mate.

been having another play with the carb today, think its definatly running rich. and thinking its probably beyond me to get it right.

got the scooters MOT coming up, should sail through if you dont need a speedo to be working (it does but gets it wrong more than it gets it right)

 

can you take some pics of the carb from a few side and top angles and post them up..might be able to tell you which screw to adjust..

 

so far ive been playing with these two

on the side


bottom

 

right..the first pic is the throttle screw.the one that stops it dying if the cable is loosened off...if you can find any other screw then that will be the air screw.the bottom one is the carb drain screw..undo that and petrol should piss out.if they are the only screws you got...your screwed for mixture adjustments..it looks like there is a screw at/by the cylinder going upwards(second pic)??? if its a screw then i would say thats the mixture but it aint a clear pic to say if it is...is it a screw??

 

have you got a manual choke on that carb???no electrical wires connected to it??cos if its preset mixture and electric choke then it could be that thats naffed..manual choke could be not opening enough too if its manual..choke problems give richness problems cos they shut off air to help initial cold running......once the engine is hot it wont need choke..if its auto,you can check the voltage at the unit or resistance across the heater in the choke.if the reading is open or no voltage to the choke then that will need looking into..or change to manual choke..lot less agro..

 

this one, yeah


i think (going off the smell) opening it up adds fuel, closing it up reduces it. but closing it right off doesnt seem to help.

its manual choke. works fine apart form closing up over rough ground. lol

 

yep that one there..i think thats yer mixture screw then...screw it right in then 2 1/2 turns out..adjust the top side screw till it revs steady and screw in the bottom one cos petrols gonna piss out other wise...thats a wierd place for a screw but it is chinkey..see how it goes on a run..if its rich still..screw it out a quarter and go for another run..bout ten mins should be ok...the first cold run go for a while..gotta get the engine to good operating temperature to have a fighting chance..if it still coughs after that and the mix is right then ide say clean yer carb..you might have to look at your air filter clogging your intake at high revs..if its foam..give it a wash in petrol and a light rinse in some clean oil...the oil dosnt need to be soaking...just a little bit to catch little particles and still let air through..dont run without one.it dont make it go better..just hides a problem by masking the issue

 

ok so pop that one out 2 and half, set the other one on the side so that it idles properly take it for a ride.

ive had the carb out and cleaned a few times now so im not sure that will do the job, and i cleaned out the air filter and it seemed clean enough ebfore i started. but thanks its something to be getting on with.

may try and grab a vid if its still nto right after that.

thanks again jim, your a massive help

 

yep..looks like you know whatcha gotta do..if it dont sort it then it could need a timing check...valve gaps..valve spring bounce..lots of things can make it cough so one thing at a time and should be able to crack it..

 

good to see ur still hard at trying to get bertie boi on the road mate dont give in

 

oh i wont, its not far off MOT ready, just need a few niggly wiring issues to sort, then can tune it better when ever then

 

oky, new front brake light switch arrived today, tested teh switch. and the wiring gets some volts through it, but it doesnt fire up the light? looking like a full wire trace is in order.

been playing with the rear brake light abit, but i just dont seem to be getting anywhere.
will have a dabble with the carb again tomorrow on my day off

 

hello sk..have you checked the switch in situ..it could be that its too far in the lever...try it out of it and if it lights then its a physical not electrical issue..got trouble with my rear switch since fiddling with tidying up the wiring..one step forward two back..havnt got my plug yet so no news on my running issues...had a look on the tuning section on the forum and theres a nice bit about carbs and doing the mixture there..highly recommend having a read up of it.explains things alot clearer than i ever could.

 

Cheers mate. Yeah tried the switch before putting it in the lever

 

right, the screw arrowed above, out 2 and half turns. other screw played with loads, it goes from just about where it can run smoothly, right to revving really high on idle. and my problem still persists.
jim you have messege

 

Ignition barrel has turned up today. Not got chance to fit it yet. But will do today hopefully