they need to lighten up lol, your able to race with port work yet you cant run a aftermarket crankshaft? i say stick a crank etc in. not like they're going to split your engine and check? lol
well, thats just to compete.. why not just build one for non competition riding.. as in black flag all the way but piss on everyone? 21 wont choke it, just get alot more from a 25 top end. you were saying about blocking the oil pasages? only with ceramic bearings (200 a go) unless you like rebuilding hourly... ceramics are real sick shit tho.. even look like a peice of fine art as for using stock bits, even an iron kit in full port would bend a stock conrod... give it a couple months an they will loosen up as nobody will put up with the running cost of the high power engines (or people will just bolt up shit engines an drive really slow and call it racing )
I wasn't going to block them, I was just going to epoxy the scallops and redrill them. Little known fact: Most of the oil don't go down those holes towards the crank, it goes FROM the crank to the inlet tract, especially at high revs and even more so on a horizontal engine as they don't even have gravity to help feed oil. You think about it, you have the main bearing rolling elements spinning @ half engine speed acting like the centrifugal fan on the aircooled scoots. The gap between the webs and the mains is the inlet and those holes are the outlet. I agree wholeheartedly that those holes have to be there, but filling and redrilling the scallops will put even more cool, clean oil through the mains at revs as you don't have the centrifugal effect fighting the ram effect of the inlet charge pulse.
i suppose... i flow them a little on ported cases. but never really playd much with them. aswell as the fact that the fuel/oil sitting inbetween the webs and the cases/outer bearing race are coverd in oil.. as is everything that encases the unburnt mixture so the slight vacume is still enuff to pull the oil in the air onto the moving surface of the bearing. remember the world turns at high speed and we dont moove...if there was a big pile of people and a huge brush some of us would move and alot of us would get everywhere. whole point is dont touch the inside of the bearing seat as this is what redirects the circular moving air from the outside to the inside of the ebaring.. and my mistake as i thought you said fill them an forget it but i misread (reading quickly at work)
What kind of temps does the air in the transmission housing get to in a fairly tricked out scoot? Has anyone actually measured this? I would like to know this for two reasons. 1: with the case porting I have in mind I'm gonna grind through on both sides and I have to know if JB weld will handle it. 2: I build jetski race engines and on these I have plenty of cold water on hand. Getting rid of excess heat isn't an issue. Jetski's usually only have water around the head, cylinders and exhaust. We have found that by installing some sort of case cooling, we find noticeable improvements in heat fade. Ie., A 7800rpm engine will drop back as much as 250rpm after the 3rd or so lap. The same engine case cooled will drop 50rpm. Dosen't sound like much but that can pull a 1040cc 225hp 74mph ski back to 70-71. I have noticed dead stock lc scoots heat fading a fair bit! (Where I am its about 34 deg C.) I think of the hot transmission as the opposite of a intercooler, maybe an "interwarmer" I recon I could get a water jacket around about 180deg of the case on the tranny side with a bit of freehand milling and a alloy plate.
tbh i woukldent worry about extra cooling, if you wanna drop temperature run an electric waterpump with a decent control switch and you have all the cooling control ytou need. the case doesent really get hot to a point it will kill off performance tbh. ali disapates heat so well as you know (then again it is a cold country over here) ether way the air in the crankcase is only in there for .0250 of a second or somthing silly like that. nowhere neer long enuff to heat up even under high temp conditions. aswell as the fact if you cool it its more likely to crack on the points uncooled case hits cooled sections. the gasget does alot to keep the temp of the barrel where it should be.. but ye, a warm case isnt really a problem with thwese. the barrel will cause heat related issues LONG befopr the case is hot enuff to loose air density. anyway, if you put compresed air in a confined space and heat it you will increase pressure.. put basicly the thing you worry about is actually helping in the worst case as the cool air is cool untill its compressed chemical metal is absoloutly fine for case filling and i can send pics of some ive done for you to see if you like.. had one do thousends of miles trouble free and the rest blow up befor the chem fails. basicly you dont havew to worry about it
ok, scooter centre has finally started to make some sense. Ignore the part # I posted above. It is for something called a CPI hussar. Would not have been happy if they sent me that!!! I can't get a mhr rep with a 12mm piston. Malossi make a mhr rep 12mm piston but must be ordered seperately and scoot cntr will not swap pistons in the kit. I suspect that if something isn't on their web shop, it aint gonna happen. Now for the big question, What do you think of running a bgm pro evolution 10mm crank with the following setup? mhr rep city 16 21mm del case porting Any other equivalent cylinder kits that are available with a 12mm piston? How about stage6 racing? ps. I don't think scoot cntr loves me anymore. I can't log onto my account to alter my cart?????
use the 12mm crank with the different small end bearing.. thas hoiw the evo kits CAN go on a non evo crank.. then when you replace the piston switch for a 12mm..
I would like to avoid the chunky 10 to12 wrist pin adaptor bearing for inertia reasons. Minor, are stage6 crap?
good kits for the money but relativly new so dont make them themselves.. its scooter attacks own brand i belive (might be wrong) but ether way its rebranded so tyour paying more than you should.. stick with polini tbh
Thanks . I'm so fuken over getting rooted around when all I want is to order the right shit for my application. I don't mind spending the coin, and am more than happy to spend a bit more to know that I'm not importing shit that dosen't fit my bucket full of aerox.
I have no issue with you getting the hussar mhr kit but damn it all Oh well The special braing would have less rollers on the pin due to there extra size also the extra weight may make them skid as well dont you think I was going to do that with my engine as well