Thats called reader interpretation sometimes 2 people can read the same chapter in a book on porting (for example) and come to 2 totally different conclusions
That's how I'm going to learn to weld. I've got a chop frame to play around with, a MiG welder and a couple of engines, I'll see if i can make something.
mig is easy... set it low. try it out as close as poss... if its burning holes move slightly away, if its sitting ontop move closer... if anything casnt be counterd play with voltage and wire feed.... easy when you thinkj how its doing what its doing
My Dad gave me a book about it so I'm reading through that as well. I'll post a vid of my first experiment snapping in half at 40mph, don't worry!
v good m8, but you need to take the hump out at the top about 1cm in... just keep the head at the angle you want and keep flatting.. will get deeper/wider as you go. when you hold the barrel square to the eye it should flow inwards... if you look theres a speed hump in yours. the outer edge is perfect tho, jus keep the angle consistant (should be plenty room in there
if you are widening the transfers then try to do a bit of matching to the bottom end if you can avoid getting crap down the cases, i hardly touched it as it was reasonably close match to the stock 172.
got to be done really wobbly?my plan was to connect compressor to intake and match away :msn1: its the tiny boost ports tight to get in there on the barrel :embhould split it really but do not want to undo all your good work?this way if/when it goes bang after all my fiddling i can blame you :w00t:
as a first go id leave it there.. you will deffo feel an increase altho it may be worth sorting it fully when it comes time to reline the barrel (or you get bord of the smiley twist stick) main thing is your learning what can and cant be done with the tools in a barrel. experience teaches you things you cant explain to somone as im sure youve gatherd now (like angle of attack and speeds of the tool, its metal sculpture afterall)
as minor said, looks good, still plenty of meat left to remove but the exhaust port looks good from what you can see, any specific internal pics? easy work would be to open up the transfer feeds a bit more, still got a mm or so left before you need to worry. is it me, or have you given the water jacket a little bit of work haha, looks like a bit of grindy grindy to me!
you so right minor its only a first go still learning?what burrs you use and where makes all the differance the little boost ports were fun ?i will polish it all up and put some more pics up?kids are back at school next week so will have more time could not help meself swift :w00t:
looool i thought so! yeh boost port looks good, i hope you've taken a note of all the alterations you've made? i trust you have haha.
i use carbide cutters of various shapes an sizes but as smooth as poss with the carbides and dont push atall.. just the weight of the tool and it wont flake out the plating. for bulk removal (getting it roughly to shape quicktime) i use high speed cutters.. cone ball and straight ones (dremmel opnes are fine) exhaust port i usually do with sanding drums tho. takes a long time but gets it to the EXACT shape you like.. as i said befor, place a piston so it just closes the exhaust port.. draw a line round the top of the piston with a pen an you have a straight line to cut too.. if you go slightly below the point it closes and work the centre to the highest level and smooth it out to the straight line it should have a perfect blowdown (timing is easy to set with a timing wheel/cd printed with 360 degree..) the blowdown should go from slightly open to fully open progressivly and evenly within 1mm piston movment (think of a solar eclips just as it breaks out and starts to come out again, the crescent effect is what your looking for in the top of the exhaust when you open the port looking in from the stub. if that makes sence... looks a little lop sided atm. best way is take a tracing of what it is now, fold it in half and cut it out to the widest line you can see.. place it back into the barrel and you will have a mirror image of the largest dimentions of ether side of the port, also the diff in port hight left to right the transfers/boost port should be completly flat at the top, min of 1.5mm deviding each pair of transfers and dont touch between the transfers and boost as the ring end is there and shouldent run into an open port (can go into a verry small hole but its never a good idea) can remove the devider from the boost port tho