wiring info for the speedfight, trekker, vivacity

Discussion in 'Scooter Guides' started by duzzer, Mar 15, 2010.

  1. duzzer New Member

    Message Count:
    23
    Rides:
    speedy 100
    wiring info for the speedfight, trekker, vivacity

    General information

    All models have a 12-volt electrical system charged by a three-phase alternator with a separate regulator/rectifier.
    The regulator maintains the charging system output within the specified range to prevent overcharging,
    and the rectifier converts the AC (alternating current) output of the alternator to DC (direct current) to power the lights and other components and to charge the battery.
    The alternator rotor is mounted on the righthand end of the crankshaft.
    All models are fitted with an electric starter motor.
    The starting system includes the motor, the battery, the relay and the various wires and switches.


    Specifications

    Battery
    Capacity ........................................................... 12 V, 4 Ah (5 Ah on MF gel batteries
    Voltage
    Fully charged @ 20°C ......................................... 14.0 to 15.0 V
    Discharged @ 20"C ............................................ 10.7 V
    Recharge rate (all models) .................................. 0.5 Amps for 5 to 10 hrs

    Alternator
    Voltage output (unregulated) ................................ 18 to 22 V (AC) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle
    Lighting coil resistance @ 20°C ............................. 0.48 to 0.72 ohms
    Charging coil resistance @ 20°C ........................... 0.64 to 0.96 ohms

    Regulatorlrectifier
    Regulated voltage output
    Batterycharging .................................................. 14 to 15 V (DC) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle
    Lighting circuit ..................................................... 12.6 to 13.6 V (AC) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle

    Fuse
    Main ................................................................... 5 Amps

    Lighting resistor
    Resistance .......................................................... 4.7 to 7 ohms

    Fuel level sender
    Resistance with tank full ....................................... 0 to 12 ohms
    Resistance with tank empty ................................... 90 to 120 ohms

    Oil level sensor
    Resistance with tank full ....................................... Infinite resistance
    Resistance with tank empty .................................. 0.1 to 0.5 ohms

    Starter relay
    Primary resistance .............................................. 65.8 ohms
    Secondary resistance .......................................... 0.1 to 0.5 ohms

    Bulbs
    Headlight (main/dipped) ...................................... 35/35 W
    Sidelight (where fitted) ....................................... 5 W
    Taillbrake light ................................................... 21/5 W
    Licence plate light (where fitted) .......................... 5 W
    Turn signal lights ................................................ 10 W
    Instrument and warning lights ............................. 1.2 W

    Torque settings
    Alternator stator bolts ......................................... 10 Nm
    Alternator rotor nut ............................................ 40 Nm


    Note:
    Keep in mind that electrical parts, once purchased, cannot be returned.

    To avoid unnecessary expense, make very sure the faulty component has been positively identified before buying a replacement part.

    Warning:
    To prevent the risk of short circuits, the ignition (main) switch must always be OFF and the battery negative (-ve) terminal should be disconnected before any of the scooter's other electrical components are disturbed.
    Don't forget to reconnect the tenninal securely once work is finished or if battery power is needed for circuit testing.

    Using test equipment

    The basic tools needed for electrical fault finding include a battery and bulb test circuit,
    a continuity tester,
    a test light,
    and a jumper wire.
    A multimeter capable of reading volts, ohms and amps is also very useful
    as an alternative to the above, and is necessary for performing more
    extensive tests and checks

    Voltage checks should be performed if a circuit is not functioning properly.
    Connect one lead of a test light or voltmeter to either the negative battery terminal or a known good earth.
    Connect the other lead to a connector in the circuit being tested,
    preferably nearest to the battery or fuse.

    If the bulb lights, voltage is reaching that point,
    which means the part of the circuit between that connector and the battery is problem free.
    Continue checking the remainder of the circuit in the same manner.
    When you reach a point where no voltage is present,
    the problem lies between there and the last good test point.
    Most of the time the problem is due to a loose connection.
    Keep in mind that some circuits only receive voltage when the
    ignition is ON

    what cdi do you have,,,,,,,,,
    [IMG]

    where is your cdi

    aci 100
    [IMG]

    aec 400
    [IMG]

    the coil is located above the rear right indicator,
  2. MiNoR cOnFuSiOn Administrator

    Message Count:
    14,140
    Rides:
    et2 monster
    lovely guide, thanks for that (im sure i wont be the last person to thank you for this) :)
  3. willoughby172 Member

    Message Count:
    156
    elo mate i have the aec400 on my 100 will this guild help to bypass the immobiliser problem i have

    if so would u be able to talk me throw it thanks
  4. mobius33 New Member

    Message Count:
    1
    Hi i have an issue with my aci 100 type speedfight, i bought one with a fualty cdi i have bought a new one but cannot see from the pic above which wires go where! is there any chance some one could take a closer pic so i can put the wires in the right place! i have the plug but its not attached and i cannot find any references online to the wiring order!.

    any help would be really great.
  5. Vivacity125 New Member

    Message Count:
    5
    Hi,

    Thanks for the above and hopefully you could me. I have a 2011 125cc Vivacity and yesterday i had a small accident. The bike fell on its left side aand since then the brake lights dont work although the brakes are fine.

    I took the seat out and checked the main wiring which looks ok so I dont know where to look. The Left handle did hit the road hard and cracked (see pic) so I dont know if maybe here is the problem and potentially some wiring behind the casing I need to check? Any help would be appreciated....??

    Vivacity handlebar damage.JPG
  6. ramo GoldMember

    Message Count:
    1,464
    The switch for the brakelight is just behind that plastic it could have come loose quite easily
  7. Vivacity125 New Member

    Message Count:
    5
    Thank you very much, after opening up the panelling it seemed to have been the wiring on the right handlebar brake. I have tightened that up and the lights seem to be working again.
  8. J4CK Member

    Message Count:
    562
    Rides:
    Piaggio NRG 172
    Someones been busy:eek:
  9. fused420 New Member

    Message Count:
    5
    Hi, I have a speedfight 100 with a faulty immobilizer (aec400), and i have been looking at a bypass cdi on ebay for £45. Is there a cheaper/easier alternative? In the photo above a cheaper basic cdi has been used, but there are no intructions, or any other info.
    If anyone can shed some light on this matter i would be very grateful.
    Thanks
  10. fused420 New Member

    Message Count:
    5

Share This Page

Facebook: