Yamaha Aerox 50 With Polini corsa 70's kit on

I Yamaha Aerox 50 With Polini corsa 70's kit on. I was going up a bank and when i got to the top it lost all of its power and wouldn't start i tried using the kick start and they was no compression..

 

did you run the kit in? or just full rev it as soon as it was fitted?

 

i ran the kit in for about 300mile also yeah i did upjet the carb

 

cast iron kit only need 10mile running says malossi.

 

It's not a Mallosi it's a Pollini kit so that advice would probably be misleading.

 

your so right because polini iron is nothing like malossi iron. and your a fucking tard.

Cart iron is the same end of story...... my malossi sports said run the bike for 10mile(not min's my mistake) in this time you should use a revelatory of rpm's but not pass 2/3 throttle, after 10 mile the run in proses is complete.


cast iron is the hardest cylinder you can get and take no running in.
nickel coated ali cylinders kit take a few heat cycles then a few mile going steady
RAW aluminium cylinder take up to 300 mile(some longer). but on scooter they are very hard to find.

back in the day all fast kits was RAW aluminium and the run in proses was very hard. but now days the technology so so much better, but some ppl read old info then slag off anyone that go against it.

 

If you think what I said in the post was 'slagging you off' then get a life and while you are at it get your facts right before misleading less experienced posters with your ill informed advice. The Polini Corsa is a mid race kit which requires an increased oil/fuel ratio , its not a Malosi sports kit and what is good for one is not necesarily good for the other. There have been numerous postings in the past about running in periods and good advice has been given by more experienced people than you or I.
The general advice is that Irone bore kits have to be run in over several hundred miles to avoid polishing the bores and to bed the rings in correctly, it has to be done because the increased friction from a new bore and rings creates extra heat which causes the damage. Alloy kits on the other hand generally require little running in and can be acheived by running set cycles.
If you doubt what I am saying look it up and please do not resort to insulting people who disagree with your opinions.

 

dont you just love internet arguments

 

I try not to argue with idiots as anyone listening in may have a problem telling who' who. However some times it's got to be done.

 

well in my eyes if people can give it then they can take it if not then tough shit

 

Fit the cilinderkit, make sure the carburattor is adjusted right!
Then start the engine and ride the engine to a nice temperature.

Then start the fun and don't be to scared to open that gas trothle.
Only keep in mind that you don't keep that gas open for to long.
Just give it short bursts for a few 100meters and then let it role out to a "normal" speed and pick up the gas again.

Everytime before asking power of the engine/cilinder and making rpm's make sure the engine is on a nice temperature.
If u fitted everything allright and adjusted everything how i should be it wouln'd be a problem.

Malossi sport of Polini corsa, doens't matter a lot.
Both ironcast cilinders.

DIfferend thing about them is the cilinder timing of the exhaust and transfer ports and the hight of the rpm from the powerband.

Driving in your cilinder at low rpm's and slow speed wil only give u a lazy cilinder to say it easy.

That is the way i run my cilinders in.
Do a lot of km's everyday ( 44km at least everyday! )
and i don't have any problems with them.
Even long periods of full trothle.

Just putting in a bigger jet doesn't mean its ok or good.
Probably your mistake.
Driving your cilinder the first km's at low rpm and low speed will probably couse problems when go full trotle after that period.
Probably with a cold engine and not a well adjusted carburattor, the cilinder isn't used to those rpm's than and says verry nice, byebye and quits.