no this aint a thread about bottom buggering before the comments start lol this is gunna sound a lil daft but how can you tell that the rings need replacing ? are there any key signs to look for both on (running wise) and off the bike (took off)
one thing that happened on my nrg is i had trouble starting it.. i bought some rings and got a mate to replace and my ped now starts first time every time. (touch wood)
we,l ive read that usauly when the rings are worn you wont be able to start it on the button but you can from the kick. i carnt try that cos my batterys nakered. im off to the shops tomorow to pick up my new bits ie new rings,piston,small end bearing,gasket set,battery,speedo cable
when my rings became worn, there was a loud screaming/whistlening noise coming from the cylinder area everytime i revd.
well i didnt hear a whistling sound has far has i remember. the pistons off now and sat on my desk by the way so i can have a real good look at it. just helps if you know what youre looking for i guess
drain the cyliner (if its a wc) and remove the head.. now wind the engine over till the crank is at the top.. now try and push the piston up or down (as in to the exhaust port or boost port) and see if the piston touches the bore.. if the piston touches the rings are fooked, if there is no contact between the piston/bore nomatter how hard you push it then its fine. theres one easy way to check them wihtout a compression tester... the nest way is to do as the book says, strip the lot, place the rings (on there own) into the cylinder EVENLY (around 10/15cm down ALL the way round) but whatever you do make sure its as close to perfectly even as you can. it doesent have to be an actual messurement, just as long as its equal all the way round.. now wiht a filer guage check the gap in the ring.. the book/manual/manufactor of your kit will supply you wiht limits of how large this cap can be befor you have to change the rings.. altho this is somtimes flawd if you have a fucked old barrel thats seen 20 or so pistons and new rings. but we can ignore that for now if you do get your hands on a compression tester then befor you ask, anything over 100psi is good, below 100psi and its new rings time, maybe a new piston/cylinder depending on condition.
if i think the rings need doing they get done there not exactly expensive. i replace them on moast bikes i sell too just to be on the safe side. if you dont wanna do that just do the way/ways minor said
cheers minor il remember that. the thing is the barrel and piston rings etc is off the bike and sat on my desk. id try the other with the feeler gauges but i dont own a set since some thiefing scumbag broke into the garage and nicked me toolbox. i will say this tho from eye sight id say the gap between the ring joing is nearly a mm or so and nrgandy i already have a new piston and rings on there way to me has we speak i thought it best just to swap them anyway. i have noticed that theres a bit of play when you touch the ring when its placed in the groove off the piston. is this normal
ye play in the ring grove is normal... they usually move up and down slightly in the grove. this is why you get a whitness mark in the top and bottom of a cylinder where the rings "land" at bdc/tdc... 1mm is rather large for an end gap LOL grab a pic of the barrel if you can (obviously the bore/area the piston go's up and down in) or if you have the means, messure it to see if its still usable..
If you read my post about cleaning out the bottom end, you'd also see that the compression was low at 70psi. I've just renewed the rings and the compression is now just below 110psi. The bike NEEDED it and will run better for them being replaced....for the sake of a £20 with gaskets etc
