my bike revs low and then when it hits 60 km/h it revs high and goes faster , are my rollers too heavy or light?
too heavy...as it is trying to get into the next gear too soon...its like trying to set off in third gear it will move slowly then it will be alright when the revs build up
okeydokey , my mechanic said that he can take a look at it , he charges 28€ a hour and said he can set the carb , clutch and variator in around 1hr and a half , so around 45€ (i live in spain)
thats rubbish its becos his dyno isnt the right type...to get it set up perfect u NEED a dyno u cant do it perfect otherwise
my bike revs low and then picks up at around 60 kmh are the rollers too heavy? ive got 5g rollers and big clutch spring , should it be light or heave for acceleration , and little springs?
The variator is designed to control the way in which the drive is produced and hold the engine in the powerband.. Heavy weights come out at lower revs so the variator if fully engaged before the engine reaches it's powerband ,so further acceleration is down to the engine picking up revs. Lighter weights come out fully at higher revs and hold the engine in the powerband so the engine is producing maximum power at all times. It sounds like your weights are too heavy try a 4g. Go too light and the engine will rev it's nuts off and go nowhere. The standard variator is notoriously poor at holding the revs steady and it's worth investing in a new variator such as pollini etc.
i have a pollini variator , the superspeed 9 roller one. comes with set of 4g and 5 gram rollers , just its on my dads bike atm ! it came with a 22 and a 28kg spring and 3 little springs. but my mechanic said the little ones wont fit . i had it on last year and it was ok but when i took it off and put original back on my bike wheelied and all but now its suddenly gone shit. thats y i am wondering if the clutch springs have got too weak. cheers
Nah I dont reckon. Its not always needed. A dyno makes setting up piss easy but its not the hardest thing in the world if you know what to look for and what youre doing. Only really worth dynoing when you make big performance/engine changes IMO. For problems like slow acceleration its a bit wasteful IMO. I'm guessing the mechanic isnt specifically a 2t tuner tho? A bit pointless if so but the sheets are nice to have..
Heavy weights come out at lower revs so the variator if fully engaged before the engine reaches it's powerband ,so further acceleration is down to the engine picking up revs.
The clutch springs (the little ones) act a bit like the roller weights softer springs allow the clutch to engage at lower revs and the harder springs at higher revs, The clutch shoes look like brake shoes and are thrown out to engage the clutch bell by centrifugal force. The springs do not hold the clutch out centrifugal force does that, they just offer resistance and regulate the speed at which it engages. The contra spring regulates the drive plates too strong and it grips the belt too tightly and prevents the variator from working freely too soft and the belt can slip.
so on original clutch , should i change the springs? light , medium or heavy for the 3 little ones? and what kg for the big spring?
Yh change the springs i have been advised by jonny to get stiffer springs so buy some malossi ones. ue the thinnest ones.