Transmission case removal

Discussion in 'The Workshop' started by Mp, Feb 24, 2009.

  1. Mp

    Mp New Member

    Messages:
    88
    Hi,
    Wondering how to get the metal transmission case off?
    (Case that protects drive belt, variator etc)
    Tried moving the nuts but there not shoving at all, any suggestions?
     
  2. MiNoR cOnFuSiOn

    MiNoR cOnFuSiOn Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,276
    Rides:
    et2 monster
    get a DECENT metric toolkit :confused: read your manual... and dont take it off befor you have half an idea (the cover is the easy bit, if you cant sus this out just yet i woudlent want to know about you playing wiht things that reach 30,000rpm+)
     
  3. Mp

    Mp New Member

    Messages:
    88
    ... I've got alot of good metric tools, the nuts are extremely tight wont move at all, I know exactly what to do after getting the case off, just wondering if anyone had any tips such as abit of WD40, or a special way to remove it instead of sarcasm, as it doesn't help at all.
     
  4. Dec

    Dec Active Member

    Messages:
    3,183
    Rides:
    nothing ugm
    heat gun/impact wrench and wd40 if theyre really stiff mate.
     
  5. Mp

    Mp New Member

    Messages:
    88
    Cheers mate, yeah there tight, wouldn't be surprised if someone wielded the things in really not budging at all
     
  6. Vesta

    Vesta New Member

    Messages:
    2,615
    might be loctited in

    get a breaker bar and twat it with a hammer, might wanna put a bit of a rubber glove in the socket so it dont round the bolt
     
  7. bait

    bait Active Member

    Messages:
    1,667
    i had similar problems whatever you do dont get fucked off with it and try prying the cases of will cost ya make sure ur using the right socket and try not to round them
     
  8. wobbly_trials

    wobbly_trials Active Member

    Messages:
    6,676
    Rides:
    RD350, SR125, ICE125
    it's corrosion mate, the steel bolt reacts with the alloy cases and seizes in the threadds solid.

    get a heat gun and get the case as hot as you can, then using a good 8mm socket or 5mm allen key (depending on what kind of bolts you have) try unwinding them, the trick is not to use excessive force as they do shear off quite easily, then its a case of drilling and tapping the remains out. a good soaking in WD40 for 24 hours will help too.
     
  9. Mp

    Mp New Member

    Messages:
    88
    Cheers wobbly mate, yeah ive used about half a can of the WD40 and managed to get out two, rest aren't coming out - i'll try the heat way tomorrow unless it rains
     
  10. shinigamii

    shinigamii New Member

    Messages:
    292
    Rides:
    tits and tits.
    Lol use a single hex socket aswell that way it ensures you ahve a good tight hold, multi hex are good but not for tight things they have a tendancy to round. Same with spanners.
     
  11. wobbly_trials

    wobbly_trials Active Member

    Messages:
    6,676
    Rides:
    RD350, SR125, ICE125
    yeah a 6 sided is a MUST the 12's are crap and eat the head of the bolt.

    well thought of.
     
  12. Mp

    Mp New Member

    Messages:
    88
    Heatguns are abit to heavy though, probably use a hairdryer and I don't mean it weight, I don't want a load of black marks and dripping paint over my casing lol

    EDIT: and yeah there the 8mm bolts
     
  13. wobbly_trials

    wobbly_trials Active Member

    Messages:
    6,676
    Rides:
    RD350, SR125, ICE125
    i always use a heat gun, get the metal quite hot and it burns the corrosion out of the threads. shouldn't get dripping piant unless your transmission case is painted.
     
  14. Mp

    Mp New Member

    Messages:
    88
    alright then, as they break glass and burn wood easily :D
     
  15. wobbly_trials

    wobbly_trials Active Member

    Messages:
    6,676
    Rides:
    RD350, SR125, ICE125
    just thought, some have a plastic case on the outside, that may melt.
     
  16. Mp

    Mp New Member

    Messages:
    88
    Nah, it's nice and sturdy metal - Would hate for it to be plastic lol
     
  17. phi1

    phi1 New Member

    Messages:
    35
    Just don't snap all the bolts off in there! try with wd40 and leave it and then try again could also try with a small blow touch
     
  18. MiNoR cOnFuSiOn

    MiNoR cOnFuSiOn Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,276
    Rides:
    et2 monster
    erm, crv sockets wont ever round a bolt off... fuck 6 sided, want sockets that hold the middle of the nut flat not the corner.. argos shite.
    NEVER had a prob getting tranny cover bolts out. they shouldent be that tight anyway, just enough to not come out. the structure is there with all 15 hand tight afterall.. more likely to crack a case from the\m beinbg too tight. if youer having real trouble just grind all the heads off the nuts, get the case off and the tention through the bolts will no longer be there, the wd 40 can get into the thread and you have more than enough to mole grip the remaning stufd.

    this has happend for a reason, id be guessing the wrong length/diameter bolts (mabey imperials) done up wWAY too ticht. ive ripped some SKANKY old engines and even then they snap befor tyhey round off. get a GOOD cr-v long reach socket and get your elbow on it :confused:
     
  19. wobbly_trials

    wobbly_trials Active Member

    Messages:
    6,676
    Rides:
    RD350, SR125, ICE125
    i've had this with a few, got one at the moment, its not an old motor, original bolts, just corroded in. i know that most arent going to survive, just means using good molies and wd40/heat when they do break off. or at worst drilling and helicoiling.
     
  20. alperin

    alperin Active Member

    Messages:
    1,621
    Rides:
    aerox 180cc
    angle grind the nuts heads and then drill dem out.
     

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