What a pain in the behind, doesn't help I've broken my back twice and getting down on my hands & knees is a killer, but got the exhaust, engine brace, wheel, caliper & disc off, plus got the inlet manifold off and the airbox (two) screws out (what a pain they where, drill, dremmel & about 2 hours as I didn't want to damage the airbox) trying to take the whole carb and intake system off and leave in place so I can just drop the motor out and pop the new one in. Realized that the final drive gears are different in the DNA to the Runner motor that I've got to swap round, anyone know if you can just swap the whole hub as a single unit or is it something I'm going to have to go in a to get changed?
Hi mate I'm not 100% sure but I've has a few 4t in the past and thought the gear box basically unbolted? But can't Say for sure!
Did a small amount today on this thing, got the carb and airbox intake apart and really had a ball ache with one of the earths?, two 10mm nuts but both washered nuts so even when I managed to get it a bit undone, I couldn't get and open ended 10mm spanner on the inside one to break the connection and get it off, what a pain in the behind. Got a cheapo 10mm spanner that I would grind down, but don't have a bench grinder. Why is it the jobs that should take 2 minutes end up being the biggest pains
The 125 uses m7 exhaust studs, they are an odd size, not many bikes use them and not many bike shops have an m7 tap
Easier way, support the back of the bike, disconnect all the wiring, pipework etc, disconnect the shock mounts and remove the shock, remove exhaust, remove engine mount bolts, slide engine out with rear wheel still on, do other work with engine out of bike.
once at work i got to scrap a honda sfx, quickest engine removal EVER, i used a hammer to get to the shock top mount, bolt croppers to "unplug" the wiring and cables and stuff and just pushed it over to get to the main bolt, took 5 mins to take the motor out and the next month to pick up the peices of broken moped panel from the workshop (i used Mjolnir to smash the panels)...
Well pulled finger and ordered a nice little thin 10mm open ended spanner which was sat waiting for me when I got home, and hallelujah it fits, freezing in the conservatory so that's all that's getting done in there tonight.
Well got all disconnected apart from the circlip rubber mounting, bollox don't have a set of circlip pliers (ordered some now) argh just the one thing stopping me from getting the motors swapped round
you know what will happen when you get that circlip off? PING..... "fuck where did that go"..... true story
Been a while since I've done anything with this as I'm usually out of the Country on weekends and knackered after work during the week. But anyhoo a mate flew over from Germany for the weekend and we managed to get the new motor in, still need to plumb it all in a nd wire it up, annoyingly couldn't get the swingarm off to swap the wheel round for the 14 inch one of the DNA, so it has been doused in penetrating oil and a blow torch is at hand so hoping the alloy of the bearing will expand quicker than the steel of the shaft and get it off. This may have to wait till Saturday though as it's dark now when I get home
Really battling with the swingarm on the new motor, it appears to be corroded onto the output shaft, tried heating it, oil, brute force & swearing but it just isn't budging. Need to get it off to swap the 12inch wheel for the correct 14inch and connect up the brake caliper
Got the swingarm off with the add of a three leg puller and a 18volt impact gun shifted the wheel nuts no bother
Annoying that the runner has a different sized rear disc than the DNA (220mm vs 240mm) so Gilera have a little bracket on the DNA's engine to space the caliper out a little, but I can't budge it, so thought i'd just go with the 220mm disc that is on the replacement engine that is mounted. Except that the mounting of the calipers are different and the DNA's caliper doesn't fit, bollox more little hassles to sort
