ok ill have a look at that, i went to local bike shop and to get mine serviced is 35£ is this worth it? and is there any point?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350315791796&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT is this spark plug any good? i buy these kind of 1s all the time
the iridium plugs are supposed to be superior, but in an untuned engine, does it justify the price? When you can buy 4-5 standard plugs for the same price. £35 for a service, you need to know the specification of service, to know whether that is cheap or not. Is it plus parts, or all in. What is he going to do that you can't do yourself, and better as he is limited by time. The only advantage of letting an experienced person service your bike, is that they might detect faults outside of the scope of the service.
just found this, from CapriDave, as his word has to be respected, perhaps in your case the iridium plug costs would be justified, with it's anti-fouling properties.... and I didn't realize the longlivity of the plug either.
i took all side panals off and put the black (-) on the regulater and the (+) on the red battery of my mutlitester is this the right way to test the regulater? any way it was going to about 13 25 to 13 30 volts and when i raved it up it was going higher if this helps you anymore
again sorry to be a pain in the butt, but can you please find me a iridium plug i cant find any on ebay, (unless any iridium plug fits my bike) thanks and the guy selling the regulater on ebay msged me there, and said he contacted peugeot and the regulater will work on my bike, so ill get that orded
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-NGK-IRIDIUM...ght-5044-/110572770742?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts the regulator test is across the battery terninals, at fast idle 2500ish, and it should be reading a lot more than 13.3 volts. Also as said, if you switch on the headlamp the voltage should hold reasonably steady, as the coils are at those revs are making enough voltage, it just means the regulator doesn't shunt so much to earth.
ok im begining to realize alot more now about this, so ill get this spark plug and regulater orderd and see how it goes edit. for talks sake, say i put this new plug in and oil or what ever it is going onit, goes on the spark plug then what? i am checking it for the pumps to tight and the things you told me before
some people would be happy if the plug rectifies the running issues, others will see the plug as a cure but not the cause, and hunt down the reason. Also some people on here only keep a bike for five minutes, or it's a stepping stone to a car. I personally would do the oil pump checks. I did ask you to charge the battery externally to see if you could get the voltage close to 12.6............. and also check the alternator/coils output.
you do get a bit of oil in the airbox on 2 strokes, its where the reeds dont snap shut fast enough and a little bit of charge leaks past, dont forget, the reeds dont open and close they flutter past a certain revs...
i do get oil in the air box as i showed earlier on 1 of my photos, ive got this carb cleaner spray, and i would like to know whats the best way to clean a carb out? i took it to a shop ages ago cause it would not start and they said there was loads if shit / dirt in it, cost me like 40 to get it fixed
http://i35.tinypic.com/2r2vw91.jpg this is the switch on the handle bars i tested all of the wires on the back of it and there is a pink wire that did not come up any volts on the multitester, so this has to be my problems to why the side lights dont work? or can it still be the regulater?
that's for you to investigate. Originally you asked if your battery was being charged, I suggested charging your battery off the bike, to see if you could raise the voltage to 12.6 volts from 12.3 volts as it is. And then leave the battery off the bike for half a day and observe if the voltage stays at what it was or drops. That establishs the health of the battery. Next I asked you to give a coils/alternator output test to see what the coils were inputting to the rectifier/regulator.............. pending the results, you do a resistance test for the charging and lighting circuit. Charging is the ignition circuit, and lighting includes the charging circuit, confusing terminology but I didn't name them. As it stands the regulator output is too low, to effectively charge the battery.......... but you don't do the tests that I would do, and suggested so I can't give an answer. Might help you if you could source a wiring diagram. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PEUGEOT-SPEED...L-973920-/390066619223?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts
i just checked my old battery i still have, and its at 12.66 volts, so mabye i have wasted money on a new battery? this could be signs of the regulater again,
put the old battery on the bike and observe what happens, do a test for the regulator again. See if the readings are different. Now you have a multi-tester and the old battery is reading 12.66, you can see that the battery on the bike isn't at full charge, trouble is if you keep starting the bike, it gets drained, as a few minutes of low rev running doesn't put back what it takes to start an engine. So without the introduction of a good known battery, it is hard to call what it is. Also putting in a charged battery into the bike and then testing the voltage later, when you haven't started the bike shows you if you have a current drain on the electrics. If no current drain and then you find the battery with day to day use is dropping voltage, then the battery isn't getting charged, it's as simple as that. Then the fault must lie with the coils or regulator. Final word from me today.
tested old battery on bike with key on = 12.52V and with bike started and using the back light on = 12.20V new battery with no lights on 13.13V so the new battery has a bit more charge in it, so as you said to test the new battery while its charging ill do that tomorow mabye its this tricklemate charger im using, i have charged the battery looads over night and i thought it would have charged the battery to at least 14v.