Piaggio Typhoon centre stand bolt seized!

Hi guys, 27 years since I last owned a scooter so bought a couple of 'spares or repair' bikes to fix up or scrap - depending on how it goes..I'm thinking they'll be the perfect vehicle to get me across town through the rush hour traffic to some premises I've taken over recently.

I'm attacking the Piaggio Typhoon first, it's a 125 4T, 2012 model and I'm shocked as to how badly corroded everything is considering its young age. I'm guessing Italian scooters have as bad a rep as Italian cars for corrosion..?

My biggest problem at the moment is how to remove the centre stand bolt and sleeve/spacer. The retaining nut sheared off whilst I was trying to remove it, putting my wrench on the bolt side the bolt head also sheared off, the bolt shaft and spacer didn't move at all! So, I'm left with both the bolt shaft and the sleeve seized into the bottom of the engine casings. Looking at the stand itself, the hole that the bolt goes through has worn larger so it must all have been seized up for a while, the stand itself pivoting rather than the spacer

So far I've tried heat, penetrating lubricant, a big hammer and drift and an air hammer/chisel. It hasn't budged a fraction of a mm. Drilling it out is not a feasible option.

If anyone has been in a similar situation and found a solution please let me know. My only options at the moment are a LOT more heat and persevere with the air hammer :-\ . I suppose fitting a side stand would be a workaround, but not a good solution.

One of the studs holding the (broken) sas valve pipe to the head has also sheared, there's a stub sticking out so I'm thinking of getting a nut welded onto this and praying it doesn't snap again whilst removing.

Cheers
RobH

 

Perseverance is the only option i'm afraid on that.
I had to drill from both sides, starting with a small drill then getting bigger until it all came out.
The only true option is having the engine out and drilling it on a pillar drill with a large bed and clamps to hold the engine.
They're not the only bikes to have this problem, easily solved with the adding of a grease nipple or two afterwards, but the easiest thing as you say, is a side stand.

 

Thanks Stevep, good to know I'm not the only one to suffer this affliction. I'd already pulled the engine out as there was some attention required here and there anyway, now on my dining room table :-\

The problem with drilling from the oil sump side is getting a small/pilot drill to reach whilst keeping it straight, looks like I'll have to remove the sump as well to enable using a small drill. Really don't want to go this far as it looks like the driving pulley would have to come off first.

Seems to me that there's a gap between the crank cases where the stand pivot lives, my guess is that all the damage was done via ingress of road salt through this gap.

Side stand would be the best trade off but I don't like to admit defeat...
Cheers
RobH

 

Nobody likes to admit defeat, but at the end of the day a siezed stand bolt on any engine is a pig to do unless you have access to the big gear, like industrial pillar drills with deep throats and loads of clamps and blocks. Side stand is the quicker, cheaper option; but I have to admit that I don't like them either. They make working on the ped harder for the routine jobs as you can no longer lift the rear wheel clear of the floor.

 

Finally got it out! Cut a slot lengthwise across the engine casing using a thin cutting disk on an angle grinder, did this to release any pressure then decided to carry on through the spacer and bolt, part of the bolt dropped out and the rest was drifted out along with the spacer, local precision engineer tig welded the slot up for me. I have a brand new spacer and bolt, been out of the packaging for 2 weeks, I'm horrified to see the spacer is already rusting despite being inside my house in warm, dry conditions!

 

I would put some anti-seize on all the threads.....I did it to exhaust nuts, and wheel threads, everything except variator threads and clutch threads....loctite for those....I go through cans of lube....and don't run it in the winter, here in the states, they salt the roads, in tons of it!

 

Ok, sounds like a plan
Cheers
H

 

Hi I'm having the exact same problem on my Xevo 125...I have drilled 3/4 of the way through the bolt and now leaving it for a few days adding penetration spray every day to see if this will help...I will let you know how I go on...David...( Sweating a lot)

 

As RobH says above, and I did the same thing on an SR125 not long back.
Whip the engine out, grab a 1mm cutting disc, cut length ways along the bolt tube, it just drives out easy enough.
Then have someone weld up the slot again.
After that, I drilled and tapped 2 grease nipples into the bolt tube.
In the long run, it's quicker and easier.