Hi, first off checked out other threads, seen terro's guide - handy stuff, but looking for the fast setup and being reliable So he's the setup; Polini cast iron sports 70cc £104.95 - To bring up the top speed Arrow sports exhaust £119.99 - To increase the outgoing from the engine Polini clutch springs £6.95 - To increase the pull off speed NGK Racing Spark Plug £7.95 - To increase the throttle response Malossi sponge air filter £3.84 - To filter out the bad bits in todays air :up: CPH High mass crankshaft £77.90 - To take the strain of the RPMs Malossi rollers 2.7g £8.99 - To make more RPMs Total: £330.57 excluding P&P Any parts there you would think of swapping around the same price range or adding? I would also put in a Gear up kit (£60odd) and carb(60-100), but im not that packed for cash :tup: Do you think this is reliable, fast package for a Gilera DNA 50?
Lazer x pro exhuast. £114 Your gonna needs a few more sets of rollers to adjust and get around the right weight. Most important jet pack
fuck off even i've asked this before TWICE so its definitly on the shack want me to reply ok DOPPLER S3R OR GINELLI REVERSE POLINI SPORT ffs minor with some permission i wanna make a guide on this stuff
no need for permission.. type one up, send it in and we will proof read it for ya. same with anyone, if you feel you can write somthing indepth that saves silly questions write it and send to thne usual site/admin email address. make sure your backing up your writings and no copy paste jobbies. well researched and more to the point FACTUAL guides on any subject are welcome.
mate i wouldnt even bother buying a new crank for that. use the money on reparing it when it brakes or on the carb/gear-up
i wont be able to put the rollers in and it'll take down my bikes power id probably also have to put in heavier ones to lower the RPM to take off the strain on the stock which will also lower it even more. I'll prob keep the crankshaft in and when i get more money in do the carb, then gearup.
erm.... ok... where you read all this nonsence then? basicly, your bike weighs more than any other, it wont go as fast with the same parts on, so to get any REAL speed out of it will mean a higher spec.. by the time your done it will be in the 600 range easy. most important bits are pipe barrel and carb... crank for strength, gears for top speed but as far as power go's its ALL about the kit/pipe match. spend what you like, but make sure you match these... fact is its a new bike, why buy a new bike to replace EVERY engine componant.. defeats the object surely?
Isn't all nonsence, due to the rotation (RPM comes in), the weight of the rollers becomes a centrifugal force; the higher the rollers weight, the lower the gear change time, and vice-versa. And yeah, only had the bike from September, brand new, not going to be able to get a refund for it, it's a good bike for handling and comfort and would like to keep it but had enough of the low speed.
LOL I'm not gonna say your chosen spec is crap (well okay leave the arrow exhaust for summat else check guides) but it's up to you whether you get a new crank or not it SHOULD be okay on a near new bike however can't be 100% so for peace of mind i would get one if i could (in fact i am on my bike b4 i tune it so there), and if i remember right you'll need to do a bit of machining to get the 70cc kit to fit the cases ^^ and lmao
putting heavier rollers in a bike means theres MORE force on the crank per roataion, the rpm reduces vibration from a poor balanced crank. ALL your bearings are FINE to hit the rpm the kit produces power at. so no, your wrong thinking lower rpm will REDUCE engine wear.. trying to explain auto transmission to me wiht copy pasted nonsence... go away. your another dude that didnt wanna hear the truth, and are now arguing a point yuou dont understand. do what you like. just DONT make another thread about the EXACT same thing again... good luck
Didn't think it would be less wear for the engine thought it would be for the crankshaft and didnt copy and paste it either, im good at physics but not the engine know how :eh:
whats in your engine? 3 moving bits... 2 of them are the crank. yes the roller's are dependant on centrifucal force, but your engine is also providing a set ammount of power to generate this force, the lower rpm/quicker gear change will just hold the rolers in one spot, no rpm can be gained and your basicly riding below the power. this will kill your crank quicker than having it correctly set.. too light and the crank spins load free meaning the big end is affected as the conrod slaps back an forth wiht the piston, the mains can take it but the unballanced crank will also put vibration/rattles through. the optimum roller weights will give correct power throughout the rev range at any given throtle position. having the rollers set incorrectly will give less power/speed and ocasionally less rpm and FUCK the engine quicker a crankj is as strong as it is, set your bike up correctly. ive run a stock crank (many infact) on ported barrels/cases up to 3000 miles wiht no probs. its alot of shit stiring but a stock crank is good for a powerfull sport setup.. iuts best to change if there old. this isnt the case, it wont last as long or go as well as an aftermarket crank (primary compression balancing effect and rpm attainable permitting) but ye. less guesswork (altho its best to guess/figure your way through ane ngine) but dont think physics are applicable.. your using an infinatesimal ammount of force to work out your theorys.. try learning about an engine then applying theorys. get you further. theres guides and threads galore on this kind of stuff. have a dig about. more to the point buy a 70 kit and pipe of your choice. go from there... its your first, you have no idea what to expect just yet