NRG MC3 DD bogging

Discussion in 'The Workshop' started by brnys85, Oct 4, 2009.

  1. brnys85

    brnys85 New Member

    Messages:
    12
    hi there,

    I recently bought a nrg 50, needed a new crank due to splines being worn out and half pulley just spinning up on the crank.
    i put a new crank in, while i was at it i put a new varitor and half pulley in it and piston and rings and main bearings and clutch etc,
    after that was all sorted started almost first time and idles fine on tickover, but when you whip the throttle open it just goes blah and tries to cut out. i have to say the bike had this issue before the fooked crank as well.
    iv'e got the jetting just up from standard but but tried std as well. when i put a piece of tape covering about 75% of the intake its revs stayed low but it would run and pull me along the road at about 15-20 mph, like i said i stripped the carb and cleaned and replaced o-rings, dunno how to check the auto choke but it starts fine and idles fine. onece warm i took the choke off and blocked the hole up and it made no difference, all intake ports and ex ports are fine as well , its just something to do with the fuel or exhaust i'm sure of it. anyone had similar issues?

    i would burn it out if it was insured (bought as a project)
     
  2. brnys85

    brnys85 New Member

    Messages:
    12
    heres a link with a vid. the sound might help someone diagnose?
    when i rev, the i have to let off quickly or it will just cut straight out, i have tried it with with the airbox on but it makes no real difference, only reason it's like this in the vid is because it was the first run after the rebuild
     
  3. Warnsey

    Warnsey Member

    Messages:
    207
    Bearings might not be fitted correctly
     
  4. brnys85

    brnys85 New Member

    Messages:
    12
    yeah i have quite a few special tools for splitting casings, presses pullers, holders etc, they were fitted correctly,
    i put a larger jet in today and a new manifold and reed while i was at it and it ran a bit better, it's just the idle is fine, starts first kick, revs up a bit then blam, after fiddling with it today i ran it with no airbox just while i'm fiddling with it and as soon as i cup the opening to the carb it starts revving up and throttling like it should, iv'e gone up in increments but am up to 70 now which i thought is a bit big, but if it runs better thats great for me. i just can't seem to get my head around it??
     
  5. MiNoR cOnFuSiOn

    MiNoR cOnFuSiOn Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,276
    Rides:
    et2 monster
    so why are you upjetting the carb? if its completly stock with the stock airbox it will run the stock jet.. the problem you are explaning sounds like oil seals/air leek/possible fucked cylinder
     
  6. brnys85

    brnys85 New Member

    Messages:
    12
    i was under the impression that if you de restrict a 50 then it needs upjetting? Bore is fine. Can still see the honing marks on the barrel. Put a brand new piston and rings in and mains and seals at the same time as fitting the new crank
     
  7. Blue dwarf

    Blue dwarf New Member

    Messages:
    342
    Raise the needle.
     
  8. brnys85

    brnys85 New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Right! Today i reset the carb settings all standard jetting etc and cupped my hand over the inlet and it was ok revved up fine as long as my hand was cupping the inlet. As soon as i took it off at full throttle it bogged and almost cut out.
    Right i replaced the metal plate in the carb inlet and put the std airbox back on and guess what. No difference. So i took the airbox back off and cupped the inlet. And it ran as soon as i snapped the throttle right open. i don't know what else i do :banghead:
     
  9. Aerox-lad

    Aerox-lad New Member

    Messages:
    904
    sounds like fucked airbox. make sure the airbox is done up tightly.
     
  10. brnys85

    brnys85 New Member

    Messages:
    12
    all screws done up tight and even went to the extreme on putting a hose clamp on the rubber arggh :rant:

    cheers tho mate
     
  11. Blue dwarf

    Blue dwarf New Member

    Messages:
    342
    Did you raise the needle?
     
  12. brnys85

    brnys85 New Member

    Messages:
    12
    yeah i did raise the needle mate i'll be honest it didn't make a noticeable difference. I give up i'm gonna be sticking it in the trade it in a couple of days. Now the thing has sprang a leak from the centre of the casings. Its more hassle than its worth. Bet if someone looked at it they could fix it in five minutes but ive lost all patients with it. Ill stick to 125s i think. Piece of shite
     
  13. gregzzz

    gregzzz New Member

    Messages:
    1,517
    Rides:
    nrg

    are you related to runner-joe?
     
  14. Ricky70

    Ricky70 Member

    Messages:
    77
    Rides:
    70cc derbi gp1
    :lol: :duel:
     
  15. Blue dwarf

    Blue dwarf New Member

    Messages:
    342
    Think you`ve found the problem there then bud.

    Water can get out so air can get in!

    Leakdown test is gonna show an air leak between the crankcase halves.

    Split the cases and start again with new mains and seals, water pump bearings and seal, sealant on the case halves,set the end float, lock it all down with a torque wrench set to the correct settings, new gaskets on the top end and dial it in from there :mrgreen:
     
  16. brnys85

    brnys85 New Member

    Messages:
    12
    what jointing compound should i use for the two halves? I used hylomar blue last time. Used it on my 180 before and it was sound.

    Who's runner joe? Most of my family stick to four wheels mate.
     
  17. bait

    bait Active Member

    Messages:
    1,667
    lol it was a joke and any instant gasket works fine
     

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