Don't know whether I've posted in the right bit here sorry if not, but I've just sprayed my scooter from silver and black to all black. Plastics were a mess so fixed what I could.sanded....primed....sanded... Applied a few coats of black and it's looks sick! Only problem is I got a £5 clear laquer from DIY store and it's drying patchy! Grrr. Only done a little bit. So can anybody recommend a laquer to use?? And does it have to be warm weather ect? I'm also spraying in my shed in the garden
It's probably a shit acrylic lacquer. You need a decent lacquer with anti-bloom in it. I recommend Krylon or Japlac as they are compatible with plastics. You should also spray it on a dry day with a moderate temperature and low humidity - damp, moist air will cause matt 'bloom' patches in the finish.
Will look them up lads cheers. Gonna wait till it's a bit warmer anyway and laquer it with some of the good shit. Never said anything on it about reacting to any paint just said it was sound for all surfaces ha
Can not seem to find any lacquers by them brands or either paint or lacquer with anti bloom in it. I haven't got a professional spray kit or anything I'm just spraying out of the can I bought in the shop if that makes sense
the thing ive found with can paint is no control..you have to spray it on fast and thin and let it dry hard before another coat else it goes a bit wobbly..all the solvent has to dry off else it bubbles through and the paint settles as it hardens and causes surface dullness.alot of good paint suppliers can fill a can with proper quality clear and your get a good finish.
If you've used car paint from somewhere like Halfords for the base coat, use their laquer and you'll know it wont react with the base its its produced to go with their paint. BTW, Halfords cans have a decent nozzle too that gives a wider pattern. As long as you paint evenly in a non moist environment it should be OK. Apply several coats to give depth to work with. Once dry, flat back with 2000 wet and dry to get rid of any orange peel/unevenness in the finish to leave a smooth shine like you're after. A bit of rubbing compound and polish to finish off to a good job
I used a cheap paint from a shop call b&m in liverpool. They never had a clear lacquer in with there paint section but had 1 on the other side of the shop were they sell engine oil, car mats ect. Any idea why they are reacting bad? I've not lacquered any of the bike I've just tested it and got bad results. Will it be ok without the lacquer finish?
sounds like you got a cellulose lacquer..is it really a bad reaction...bubbling and allsorts..acrylic top will be ok for all paint surfaces but cellulose reacts with most synthetics.i use cheap paint from wilcos and pound land.its acrylic and was good but ide use "the same as lacquer"if synthetic was available..maybe thats why it was in another section.if your happy with the shine then it will be ok.good wax and buff it should be ok..if its a gloss finish.
Yeah it looks good as it is tbh mate I just hope it will last haha. So if I wanted to put a lacquer ontop of it in the summer what would I be looking for?
if you can keep it in good nick and it ain't too badly marked by summer..maybe a rub down with 2000 grade and a light blow over with acrylic clear and your be fine..try art shops too..they may know whats best..
Yeah it come up pretty good in the end mate! A lot of hard work and patience, got there in the end tho
Kev, get some 3000-5000 wet and dry on the paintwork , and then go over it again with some lacquer , and then maybe wet and dry the lacquer too... i did this on my car wing-mirrors, and they've come out very good. In fact, the same reflection and shine as a black one i bought from a scrapyard car