I was under the impression that the engine uses the pilot mixture circuit for idle and 1st quarter of throttle then it goes on to the needle then when your flat out the main jet. the plug is a nice coffee color so i would say the main jet is suited just need to tweak the bottom end hence thats why i changed the postion of the circlip cos i thought it was running a little lean. I'm currently running 4.5g rollers but it hangs onto the revs too long so hardly gets into top gear unless i get a good straight so i'm going to try some 4.7g or 4.8g rollers
erm, if it was bogging and you dropped the needle clip downwards that makes it RICHER not leaner.. so no, put it back at the top position.. sort your rollers. main jet can make it bog off the lkine, as can rollers/springs.. wont need the needle there, not on a stock bike/airbox and pipe, not in a million years
Well i'm stuck i've dropped my main jet to a 60 and unless the idle miture screw is fully in it will bogg out and wont set off. the needle clip is back on the top and i'm running 4.5 rollers with blue mallosi springs, once it gets into the powerband its fine. I just need to sort this bogging because its embassering at the traffic lights. Any more ideas? i'm running a gianelli reverse exhaust as well
I've got a giannelli reverse exhaust, and it sounds almost exactly the same as mine, when I first had it fitted, all I did was get it upjetted, and I lost all my acceleration, but it got tweaked with the tickover needles, and it made the acceleration be how it was meant to be, and after about a week or 2, it all went back to it's normal self again, so I lost all my bottom end as well since I had the exhaust..
this will be roler and clutch based... people always fuck with a carb on an auto when its an obvious transmission related problem... sombody who has never touched an auto will always think its the carb, no matter how experienced. change your rollers/clutch springs and reset the needle .. read the guide
I've tried numerous rollers weights. 5.5,5.0,4.5g and have gone from a polini 2g race clutch to a standard clutch with blue malossi springs. Its just dead until the power band comes in. pulls like a train then. needle clip is currently i the top slot and running a 60 mainjet. down sizing from a 62 did improve the set off but like you said its got to be transmission based rather than fuel?
its the clutch... your waffeling absoloute nonsensicle method... mainjet is full throttle.. idle mix is IDLE setting ONLY (will bog AS you go away from idle if its REALLY wrong) leave it at 1 and a half out for now. needle clip in the top notch, ignore 0-10mph.. concentrate on the bike pulling well FROM 10mph through to top speed wiht the rollers, use a stock clutch and it will bog for a few seconds so get it rolling however you can.. you will then see what the rolers alone are doing.. the mainjet should be guessed large at this point. the rollers effect should be easily noticed by increased revs and less pull the lighter you go and more pull with less rpm the more weight you add.. then set the takeoff rpm (springs/ajust clutch) THEN trim out the main jet and set the mix.. you will NEVER set a carb up wiht poor transmission setup.. you WILL think its allsorts of carb related issues. if your running a filter put your airbox back on.. wasting time anyway, if you have the airbox on set the bike to stock bar the parts you have installed and start again.. the carb you want STOCK setting wiht the airbox and a bigger mainjet. THEN sort transmission, THEN set the diff aspects of the carb. you need to look up the guides and read what throttle position is opperating what "mode" of delivery in the carb and how to ajust it. only once youve sorted your rollers/clutch.. if in doubt start again. fit one part, ajust, fit another, ajust.. learn to listen and your bike will tell you whats wrong