hiya guys i could do with confirmation on what ive been told by you lot being right so could you guys tell me if im doing right or wrong here cos i seem to be stuck basically my scoot takes a while too hit the top end power and shoot off. now with what ive read this is a clutch spring problem right ? ......stiffer springs so the clutch engages at a higher rpm am i also right in thinking that a technigas next r exhaust kicks in the power at the top end of the rpm and not the bottom end rpm like a standard exhaust ? ive fitted new slightly lighter rollers (15x12 7.8) instead of the standard rollers (15x12 8.3) like i was adviced too when i fitted the new exhaust was this right and finally i upjetted the carb has advised too when the new exhaust was put on. now i took the sparky out to see if the bike set up was ok and the spark plug is a chocolate brown colour. does this mean the carbs set up right ? sorry for been a pain guys but thanks for any help you can give
yes your correct in everything you have done/are about to do.. you need to stiffen the clutch then reajust the rollers if needed after this point. again yes pipes push the power up into a higher band, meaning more usually, but a hell of alot less at lower rpm's hence you re ajust the clutch to bite higher and lighten the roller weight to set the new opperating rpm of the enigne. THEN if its still not right altho both the rollers and clutch aswell as the carb being perfect then you need mopre tention on the lot AT any rpm... meaning clutch contrast spring.. the chocolate brown on the plug indicates the engine is GENERALLY running correctly.. this COULD be lean as fuck top wiht rich ass bottom. or vice versa... not usually the case but more than possible so its best to go by what you force in the engine, ie, when you put a perpously lean jet in and take not, a stupidly rich jet and take note. silly heavy rollers and take note, silly light rollers and take note.. this is about the ONLY way your gonna see/feel how an engine is when somthings not right.. but generally your carb is running ok.. get to experimenting, read read read
i dont wanna sound like a tit here but wouldnt it be easier to go back to using a standard exhaust. i dont have that option because the technishite was already fitted when i got the scoot. the previous owner just left everything else standard instead of doing the required work for the new exhaust to maximise its potential
ive had a quick tinker with the bike already before today. ive had 7.2 rollers in which made it pull better but lost the top end speed. ive had 8.5 rollers in that made the slow set off worse and various weights in between. ive had bigger jets in that made it feel chokey the higher it went. in all honesty it seems to run better with the original jet in it which is a 76 but if that was the stock jet size am i right in thinking il blow a piston or rings because of the performance exhaust
they will ALWAYS run better slightly leaqn, but this creates heat and yes this will kill the piston/rings/bore verry quickly... go up atleast to a 78/80 (thats assuming there not set rich to begin with, wich i doubt tbh, there usually quite lean stock to get through emmissions bollocks) 7.2 up to 8.5g is a big jump.. have you try'd alternating 3 of each? will make 7.8g roughly (actually 7.85) but ye, should be a good mix of the two... or try taking an opposit 2 out and fitting just 2 different rollers (so 4 and 2 wiuth the 2 opposit each other wiht 2 of the others between) theres plenty of ways you can trick a variator into doing what you want wiht the wrong weights. aslong as this is only used for testing it wont do any harm... yoiu have to imadgen the rpm and centrifugal force is decided by the MASS weight (all6 added together) aslong as you space them evenly the weight will be mimmicked.. to figure what weight it was simply add all the roller weights together and devide by 6 (if its 3 and 3 you just add 2 diff rollers together and devide by 2) you NEED every roller the same weight for a roqad bike/any sort of constant use as the heaviest will push the plates apart and the rest will just follow, meaning the lighter rollers arnt pushing anything, so your variator will wear unevenly. but ye. so to sum up.. dont make such big jumps with rollers now, you know what the effects of ether way do, now fine trim it (i go from heavy to light, find the revs then from there keep adding weight till you loose revs/power to the wheel. THEN figure your jet out...
i get what you mean but all the rollers ive bought have been sets. ive tried full sets of 7.2,7.4,7.8,8.3,8.5 and theyve all been malossi rollers. i couldnt find any stage6 roller sets then i spotted the dam things on ebay last night. i have a 80 jet so il try that later with the 7.8 rollers they seem to be the best for its performance. i hear the springs for the aerox hundred fit the neos 100 because there the same engine so il get some of those. if its not too much trouble minor can you explain to me what the big torque spring does and if it would benefit a new one while the clutch is being stripped i also wanted to ask something about the variator. its getting a lil noisey it sounds like i can hear the rollers rattling and that its very dry. is this normal ?
rollers will rattle if you use 3 and 3 or one of the ramps is worn/rollers is worn... rattely rollers is usually nothing to worry about.. right, the big clutch spring. as your bike accelerates your rollers throw themselves outwards (centrifugal force obv) the big spring RESISTS this.. if the rollers are spot on rev wise ALL the way up the range but the pull isnt there, or when you have the rollers you feel are right yet the acceleration is constant with wandering revs you need to change the contra spring. im confusing everyone now. basicly, if you take any bike, fit lighter rollers and a harder spring you will basicly put more pressure on the belt AT the higher revs decided by the rollers... this basicly means the revs DONT change, the actual power through the rear does. this can ether flatten out the revs lovely or give you a GOOD bottom end wich just turns to no revs at top. the higher up the variator the rollers are the more the spring will have effect.. so you basicly use a harder spring (and lighter rollers) to remove some bottom end pull and add it up top as your getting the variator to work harder in pulling the belt (as theres more tention on it) so the same roller weight has LESS effect again, a simple way of putting this is the stiffer the spring, the SLOWER your variator will work (same effect as putting heavier rollers, but it wont just exceed itself and "bog" or transmission stall as you get upto speed.... again, throw in some slightly lighter rollers and a stiffer spring and take note of how it pulls compaird to the revs at any given speed.. there will be a gain, there will be a loss... work out how much gain and loss you want top and bottom. THIS is where the myth that lighter rollers give you more bottom end and heavier give you more top end.. its IF you do the opposit ajustment to the spring. the revs should stay constant as always. auto transmissions are cofusing as fuck till you play with them for a while. most people dont take the time to reallyt understand how things work, they make up there own mind and leave it at that. its amazing how complicated a few moving parts CAN really be.
right ive took all those things into condsideration and done whats advised apart from the variator torque spring which im gunna order monday which colour spring would you guys suggest ? i see they come in differant stiffnesses and colours whats the recommended stiffness. ive read a few people using white malossi ones. ive had a quick tinker again with the new clutch springs and the bike seems to run alot smoother threw the revs but with the stock size rollers in which is a 8.3. ive upjetted the carb to an 80 from a 76 like you advised but im strill struggling like hell to get the bikes speed upto scratch. im a 14 and half stone bloke on a 100cc scooter and im struggling to keep up with a car doing 50 mph. am i asking too much of the scooter or is there anyway i can squeeze more speed outta this thing
something is not right there then mate as your right they have the same engine as the aerox 100 and i know stock 100's that do 62mph with rides about your side i would say try new torque spring im useing red clutch and torque springs but my engiine has had a lot of tuning work done
this is just getting REALLY old now.... 3 times youve been explained things, yet your still asking questions, why not just buy all the springs? or pay somone to dyno setup the bike.... im bored of typing out transmission explinations in every thread for aerox/neos/nitro owners... its long, theres no need, all the information you need is here. if you still dont get it i dont think you ever will.. trial and error, not think a bit then ask more questions about the same old nonsence.. is it even a 100 pipe?
