Hey, i would like to ask which kit revs more because i dont intend to install a racing crank on my scoot and want to go with the less-revving kit there is. 1) Malossi MHR Racing 2)Malossi MHR Rep. 3) S6 Sport Pro MKII (All fitted with either a S6 Pro or Yas C16 pipe) Thanks
Sport pro pulls way down. I have a sport pro, the mhr team 2 and a couple of pro races. The sport pro is the torque-master . Then the MHR- then the pro race (which is more like a gas turbine than a 2 stroke. If you want the torque, Sport pro with the C16 is pretty damn good. Maybe as good as it gets. Easy to set up too(which is not true of higher end kits). But as kyle H says, you'd be better off with a better crank. Doppler endurance 12mm little end is my fave. Way underrated and damn good value to boot. Never seen a broken one.
Nope. Just the diameter of the connecting pin in the piston. It needs to be the same as your crank. Stock crank is 10 mm on Minareili engines.
A setup with improved torque will always be a better ride than a screaming engine with a racing crank that is capable of 16,000RPM. Any fillings you have in your teeth are likely to stay in for longer too, as a long ride on a screaming engine isn't much fun, unless you are actually racing and have ear plugs in. Racing bikes aren't designed for comfort - remember that...
http://www.pedparts.co.uk/blog/stage6-sport-pro-mkii-cylinder-kits-a-closer-look You could get a Malossi crank. But a Doppler crank would work identically and is cheaper. This is not just my opinion. Drug69 at RSE Racing thinks so too. check out the graph with all the pipes on the stage 6. That's why i use the yas R for all days. It really pulls. http://www.pedparts.co.uk/c/asset/Stage6_Sport_Pro_MKII_Blog/yasuni_exhausts.jpg
OK, high revs don't always equal high torque (pulling power). Some pipes allow the engine to produce peak power at lower revs and this would be a better bet for long-term reliability and daily usability, as a real screamer that produces peak power at high revs will tend to wear out faster. If it's overall usability that you want, go for one that improves torque in the mid range, rather than stressing the engine at high revs trying to wring out that last MPH. High revving engines can be tiring to ride, especially due to 1) the noise and 2) the vibration that you might feel through the bars and frame, as small imbalances in the engine will get multiplied up as the revs get higher. This is why I joked about your fillings falling out, as the vibration can really get quite bad at very high revs. Racing engines are 'blueprinted', to ensure that they are as perfectly balanced as they can get, but your engine isn't 'blueprinted', so the imbalances present in your engine will result in more vibration and higher wear. If you don't want usability, don't plan to keep the bike long and expect it to be scrap and the end of a year, go nuts and fit whatever you like to it, but expect things to get very expensive after not a lot of time, as something very wrong will happen in the engine room. Your bike will be faster than your mate's bike, but yours will break far sooner than his unless you've done your homework and setting up properly. Unless you know what you are doing and exactly what you are aiming for, you can scrap an engine very quickly.
As Turbovetto says, the S6 Sport Pro with the C16 is probably as good as it gets, but you need to know what you are doing to set it up properly regarding jetting, roller weights, etc. This isn't amateur stuff we're talking about here.
I've just ordered stuff from scooter-attack. Sport Pro MKII, Yas C16, Malossi Delta Clutch, Malossi Vario, Kevlar Special Belt, 4.4g Rollers and Dellorto 21 Carb. What about jetting?
Do you feel competent to assemble all of this on your scooter using the correct tools? Do you own a low range torque wrench and some decent sockets or spanners? This isn't the sort of stuff you can easily bodge together in your front garden, if that's what you are thinking. You need to know the torque settings and use a proper torque wrench or you risk warping the cylinder head. What made you choose 4.4 gram rollers and how to they compare to the weight of the standard ones? Do you understand what the effects of changing the roller weights does to a scooter? This isn't bolt-on power from a catalogue kind of thing, no matter what your mates and the web sites tell you; this is proper mechanic work. If you a struggling to understand power bands and torque, then how do we stand a chance of explaining jetting to you?
A friend of mine has many years in scooter tuning and he will install the parts on my scooter, he has all the tools. I currently have 4.2g rollers in my scooter, its not stock. Im starting to learn about all this, bear with me :d
Hey, no problem. I just don't want you to end up with the crank poking a hole in the engine or you blowing it up in some other way. I used to tune two strokes back in the late '70s and early '80s when I raced at Moped Mayhem.