I started a thread on a few sites now about MHR-R squish. I've found out that the numbers are pretty high. On my kit it ran over 2.5mm, on a minarelli horizontal A/C. NO JOKE! My top end has been good, I matched my cases, matched and polished my exhaust, brought the skirts down to the base of the cylinder wall. I never checked the squish cause I thought it was fixed because of the rubber head gasket. Then I found you could shave the cylinder to reduce the clearance. I shaved off .5mm since then. Acceleration was way better. 1mm to go.
yeah, i'd say 0.8 - 1mm minimum squish clearance, it should make the scoot pull like mad if its set at 2.5mm stock.
its better to use a thinner base gasget/machine down the bottom and lower the port to match, machining the top will raise the port timings altho this makes more powerr it puts more strain on the crank. when you say you cut the skirt do you mean there is no more skirt? like its back to the same level as the gasget? if so this will cause alot more side load on the piston at bdc and promote wear of the big/small end bearing aswell as upping the risk of bending the crank. its better to cut where its needed for flow and leave parts of the skirt intact to support the piston.
I brought the skirts down to the gasket, without making the cutouts any wider. To achieve maximum flow, this is where they had to be cut to. Is it possible to run without a base gasket, or is that inadviseable? About the strain on the crank from machining the top, I have a 12mm pin, and BGM evo crank, so I'm not doing this on the stock crank.
