Lack of go after going on a run.

Hi all,

I'll explain my current problem. Ped starts fine and sets off ok. I go on a bit of a cruise and when the ped is warmed up and I eventually come to a stop, I go to set off again and it's like i'm setting off in a high gear (imagine trying to pull off in 5th in a car and that's where we're at).

I've changed rollers and drive belt but it still does it. It's getting a little embarrassing at junctions now as I have to push myself along to get going again. Once it gets up to over 10 mph it picks up again and away we go!!

Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thinking maybe it's the torque driver thing at the back. Could it be that the spring has gone weak or something?

Regards,

Rich.

 

might sound daft, but is it possible to go on a ride without the belt cover on?
Then when it happens you can have a look and see where the belt is positioned. Might give you a better idea.

 

Should be possible I think. I would have to start it first. The only problem then is getting the bendix starter out without taking my fingers off!

 

I can tell you what this is (assuming carburation is not the problem) - Your spring corrector has no more grease and what there is has turned to chewing gum.
If you strip it, clean it with turps & regrease- and put a new spring in there- all will be well again.

good luck

 

Carburation is fine. Got a new carb and pipework etc. Starts on the button every time etc. Revs ok just don't go.
I assume you mean the spring that forces the rear torque driver back to its home position?
I can change that no problem. I hope that's what it is.

Cheers for your help.

 

It might be the clutch engaging to early, that's what it was on mine

 

steve
dont just change the spring. T ake the entire corrector to bits and clean that thing. Then re-grease with the thickest grease you can find and put it together with a new spring. Theres a vid where malossi show you - i'll go find it
http://www.scootershack.co.uk/threads/malossi-engine-build.32298/
watch the vid from 18.35
If you have trouble getting the steel collar off (that stops the pins falling out) use a pair of flat headed screwdrivers to prise it off.
Good luck.

On re-reading your original post it seems to me that I've got it wrong. If it's just the take off - and not the slowing down- re-accelerating (not a complete stop) then the problem is the clutch. I bet one of the springs has snapped (or both) and Aerox Steeve is right.

Check out the clutch - it could be the springs - or the eyes for the springs in the clutch itself.
If it's the springs, replace. If it's the clutch - get a propper one from Malossi. Beware - there are two sizes. Take your clutch bell to the shop when you buy.

But while you've got the thing apart - you might as well clean & regrease the corrector as well ! The hard job is getting the clutch off the corrector.

Good luck -

 

Hi all. I've fitted a new clutch and clutch spring and it seems much better now. It doesn't set off in 5th gear any more which is great. The problem I have now is that I have to twist the throttle right round and rev it before the back wheel starts to spin. I have no play in the throttle cable. I fitted the clutch straight out the packet and the clutch spring has 1000 rpm stamped on it. Could it be that the clutch springs are too strong?

 

The clutch has to wear in, and takes anywhere between 50-100 miles to wear in properly

 

Makes sense. I'll run it a bit more then and see what happens. Cheers for that.

 

No probs mate, let me know if it's getting better

 

Will do. I don't suppose you know what a difference strength torque spring does do you? I bought a pack of 3 (1000, 1500 and 2000 rpm) and I fitted the 1000. What would happen if I fitted the 2000?

 

I found this on another forum.


The power spring provides the down shifting forces in a CVT transmission by working against the roller weights. CVT tuning is all about balancing the roller weights with a proper contra spring. The 1500RPM spring increases the tension on the belt and rollers. This delays the transmission from up shifting too soon and also reduces belt slippage. The 1500RPM spring itself increases and smooths out acceleration, low-end grunt, and maximizes back shift. "back shift" is the delay time it takes the transmission to down shift when engine RPMs drop. This is best visualized when thinking about coming in and out of a tight turn. Slowing for the turn the RPMs drop, you then clear the turn and apply full throttle. This is where back shift plays in -- you want the transmission to down shift to the proper lower gearing ratio as soon as possible through the turn so the CVT won't be stuck in an up shifted state when throttle is reapplied coming out of the turn