you unbolt EVERYTHING attached to it including flywheel,stator etc. then take out all the bolts holding it together and give the end of the crank a swift whack with a hammer. It will come apart then.
haha thats all siezed mate, only things left on the engine is the crank , gearbox and clutch lol. they all gettin replaced anyway... the waterpump side, am i right in saying there are 4 bolts inside there that ill need to undo aswell ?
Here you go mAte done mine last week... This is what it should look like... 1.Take off water pump cover 2. Take off the flywheel ignition and timing (bell can be abit of a pain as magnetic) 3. Once flywheel is off there is to Allen key bolts holding stator plate on. 4. Once they are removed then take off cerclips for water pump drive. 5. Pull water pump drive off along with crank seal. 6. Then behind the stator plate is 6 Allen keys holding casings together. 7. If your not keeping the crank it doesn't matter but what ever you do don't belt a hammer down the middle of the casing to split it because they are machined and have a perfect edge on both casings which sit flush together. Look at my pictures below
The next picture is to show you the section which is machine finish and can't be belted with a screw driver down the centre of casings because it will chip it and break them
View attachment 9919 that section with sealant will be damaged if you smack it with a hammer down the centre
View attachment 9919 that section with sealant will be damaged if you smack it with a hammer down the centre
use heat too, try and warm the casing around where the bearing is, at work we use a kind of extractor tool, but often you can just tap it with a hammer if its not too seized. looks like you used a bit too much sealant there lyndon. i like to just use a kinda little dollop and spread it around the surface, saves on getting it all sqeezed out and into the crank recess. but yeah you are right. DONT PRY IT OPEN! ive seen countless cases fucked because of that!