This is in the 'what have you done' thread but I thought I'd leave a copy here. It might help somebody somewhere - OK - here we go. Here is the donor engine - it needs some internal things doing anyway.. https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475042415/ Pipe off https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475143503/ Block off https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475382974/ Cylinder off https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475132393/ wedge off https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475370004/ ignition side https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475013395/ Flywheel off https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475360624/ extractor on - this is a buzetti universal extractor and I can recommend it. It works a treat. https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475005815/ rotor off https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475001215/ front end https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475094483/ Top off https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13474986325/ big holes..... I was glad to note that the entire kit was impeccable - despite some thrashing. https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475334604/ Just a shot of a properly flowed case. Mmmm. Nice work. I will do this for anyone - for a price. I enjoy it. The top is a bit ragged - and this is why I wanted to have it apart. I did the MHR rough and ready as I wasn't sure if it was a worthy alternative to the Pro Race. It is. That - and a longer crank...... https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13474973695/ Plate on the ignition side. We're going to heat the case on this side and then tap up on this to remove one half of the case. My home made kit. Normally you would remove the balancing shaft first, but this is not a stock motor and everything has been taken care of. https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475084663/ heat. It takes about 10 minutes for best results with this gun. Blowtorches are better but this case has been resined - and resin burns if provoked. Notice how the sealant has been added on the outside of the crank seal to glue it in there. Then there's the clip over the top (removed in this photo). https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13474977275/ 10 minutes later and a couple of taps - one half off. https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475321614/ Now we heat the other side - with the motor (open) on wood blocks. You do not want to screw up the surfaces on the important side..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475318234/ A couple of taps with a pointy thing in the end of the crank (don't want to use a hammer on your nice thread - you will fuck it) and it's out. Then we put it into the extractor. All this has not hurt the crank - but that cannot be said for the bearings. Change the crank - new bearings go on. https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475067063/ another look at the bearing ripper https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475062373/ Simple ! https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13474952985/ Done. https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13475299214/ now it gets sprayed in WD 40, wrapped in clingfilm and into the freezer it goes. Overnight. And the next (and most exciting !) instalment is for tomorrow ! How to put the bearings on ! With a hammer ! Without shagging the bearings ! Lots of fun. If you like that sort of thing.....
I've followed this and now have a load of weird gear wheel things laying on the floor, where did I go wrong Just kidding, one to bookmark for future reference.
Yeah - and a load of weird nail- shaped things and a load of little springs and a chain too I'll warrant! I did nothing today. I'm going to attack it tomorrow. It was SINGING with the c 16. Blistering performance. Close to Mhr on acceleration. I want it done and fast. Photo report to follow. Did you notice I have carpet in my garage? Special carpet which eats things that fall onto it and they are never seen again..... One day I'm going to shake it and I will have enough parts to make a complete scooter......
So here we go. Your crank has spent the night in the freezer. For this you need a horse - or a plate that fits between the two rotor parts of the crank. I have mine. You must invent yours. A plate on a vice works. I have yet to find a big vice - so I improvise. You need a hammer and a pipe, and because I know a man with a lathe - a ring made of brass (because it's softer than everything else (but this is a luxury item. You don't really need it). I use a towel folded over to protect the crank - but again - this is a luxo item. You can do without it. But it holds everything still for the next bit. https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13493258763/ Care for some chilli sauce with that ? https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13493146025/ Now - the bearings. Lots of people say 'heat them'. I say no. And yes. Heat them to about 50 degrees in the oven - because that's what they live with every time you start the scoot. More heat will possibly result in distortion and they will wear quicker. https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13493512374/ Now we get down to it. You will notice that the crank is supported and the whapping is limited to the internal surface of the bearing. The outer bit is not bearing any load during the process. This is crucial. Put your (carefully selected) pipe on there and whap that fucker on there. https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13493499664/ When it's fully on, flip the crank and do the other one. Fast. The metal heats up and the hotter it gets, the harder it becomes. These bearings have identical races - so there is no 'right' or 'wrong' way. But if they are more open on one side - put the open side outwards so the oil gets in there better. Here they are - on there. Another spray with wd40 or oil and a wipe and let everything get up to ambient temperature. https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13493132015/ Make sure they are fully on ! If they are not snug up to the end stop then they will be - when you tighten your case (and bend the wrist-pin in the process thus fucking your expensive crank). Whap hard and clean. The note will change when the inner race connects with the crank. If the rotor is well supported - you cannot hurt anything. Next chapter - how to get it all back together. More fun - if you like that sort of thing (which I don't). Right up nice and snug. https://www.flickr.com/photos/116877957@N08/13493236853/
Right - after coming close to breaking my ankle over the weekend I finally got into the garage & dropped the motor off the scoot. Took off the admission stack and inspected the crank. There is in fact no play at all at the big end. There appears to be a tiny bit of wiggle from the little end as you wiggle the crank - but both the roller cage and the piston are new - so this tutorial is on hold. The other case is getting some work when I can be bothered so I will do one on cases & resin in the near future. I'm trying a different reduced admission stack on the all days set up while I have it off - When I have to rebuild an engine, I'll be back on here and finish the tuto. And sorry Csq - I don't have a clue.
Posting this here because it's going to get buried over there - Some ideas on resin & crank cases. This is why I wanted to have the loonie engine apart. http://www.scootershack.co.uk/threa...nd-different-cylinders-how-to-re-align.33897/
I had a turbo hairdrier failiure when I put my ladies' scoot back together so I had to resort to a blowtorch for heating the case. This disrupted the process and so photography was abandoned in favour of doing the job right! Needless to say, I will finish the tuto- and with a photographer present while I do it!
heres my guide.... (in no particular order) get a big hammer, hit everything but the thing you need to hit get the oxy/acytelene bottle out set fire to everything carefully launch every small delicate part across the workshop or into the engine drop the very last head bolt into the sump forget to put oil in use a hammer to smash the piston into the nice new bore when you cant get the rings around those little peg things make sure your workbench is really dirty fill your tank with diesel forget about putting a bigger main jet in your nicely ported engine, just ride at full gas for the first week and hope for the best thus concludes my very helpful guide
oooh i changed a crank in a 4t neos last week for that reason, the customer over tightend the nut, the vario came loose and fucked it
