Hi guys, i have a piaggio zip 50 2t on a 10 plate. After some really bad off the mark acceleration issues, it finally let go. And wouldn't start. I haven't a clue about moped engines but have a decent knowledge of other engines. What i am guessing has happened is that the belt has snapped, (stretching maybe causing the acceleration issues?) as i said i have no idea what the inside of one of these things looks like, I know they have know oil as its 2t. If i take the left hand engine casing off to check the belt what will i encounter? Any pics would be great. Now, the reason i believe it is the belt is it is making a sound from that region of the engine when i press the ignition switch. it doesn't sound like metal grating or rubbing. i'm thinking its the belt whipping around?! As i say i haven't a clue how they work really, its just guess work in my head. ANY help appreciated, thankyou
sounds about right for the belt. Theres nothing to worry about taking the case off. It'll expose the starter bendix gear that sometimes moves out of its hole but nothing else will be any issue. The gear can be removed in order to feed the new belt around the puleys. Squash the clutch pulley together to enable the belt to be long enough to reach and it'll reset itself as soon as its all back together
Another question, i forgot! i bought this cheap "citymoto" thing, haven't a clue of the proper make. Its a import i see loads of the around. Are the belts one size fits all? Cos if so i will take one of the "citymoto" to put on for the time being? The import is 4 stroke, dunno if that makes a difference at all.
On your Zip, it could be the starter motor or bendix on the way out, or possibly the battery going flat can cause a rattly sound. Be careful removing the casing bolts, they are liable to shearing so plemty of WD40 and go careful. Cheers Rob
Recently had new startor motor and battery pal. And excuse my lack of knowledge but wtf is a bendix? lol
i dont see why the belt breaking would cause the bike not to start? do you mean litteraly it wont start up and idle, or will it just not drive and simply revs away? the cvt transmission is actually very easy once you know it. taking the left case off witll leave you with the variator towards the front of the case and the clutch bell and clutch at the back end of the bike. The belt simply goes between these two pulleys.
it won't start at all mate, I haven't had time to look at it yet. it had serious off the mark acceleration issues before it broke. the guy I bought it off said the crank had fucked up, but it got 're- threaded" sounds like a bodge job to me!
the engine will start and run if the belts snapped etc. sounds like you really need that transmission cover off, could be anything going on in their. maybe the variator has worked loose and jamed against the case causing it to not be able to spin over freely?
what do you reckon he means by "'re- threading" the crank? sounds dodgey to me do you reckon this could be the cause?
he means that the threads were either reduced in size to a smaller diameter or a die not run over the existing threads in order to clean them up. It may have been stripped due to overtightening the nut or have been cross threaded at some point
re threading the crank wont stop the engine running, unless durring the re thread the crank was knocked hard, or something to mis align it? have a look and see
at a guess i would say: the front pully nut has come loose, the pullys have slipped and something is seriously fucked up. thats a complete guess tho.
