HELP NEEDED Peugeot speedfight 50cc help 2000

Discussion in 'General Scooter Discussion' started by Charlieboy1985, Jun 20, 2017.

  1. Charlieboy1985

    Charlieboy1985 Member

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    31
    hi, I recently bought a speedfight. It starts and idles first time every time. It sometimes runs and rides completely as it should. However it sometimes idles and I pull the throttle fully open or half open and the revs hardly change at all. It dosnt cut out just dosnt rev up. So sometimes it's completely normal and sometimes it dosnt Rev. I've cleaned the carb and put fresh fuel in.

    Any tips or help will be really appreciated.

    Thanks
     
  2. Tamiyacowboy

    Tamiyacowboy Pippa's Owner

    Messages:
    1,850
    Rides:
    Piaggio Skipper
    check the throttle cable , unscrew the throttle cable cap ontop of carb and check the slide spring and the throttle cable end nugget is seated correctly in carb
     
  3. Merlin

    Merlin Old School Biker

    Messages:
    2,305
    Rides:
    2007 TKR WRC 50
    Does the bike have an immobiliser fitted (flashing LED on the dash)? If so the immobiliser could be faulty. If it fails to register the encoded chip in the key, it will idle, but won't rev over 2000 rpm or so. Check the antenna around the ignition barrel and consider getting a bypass CDI in case it fails completely.
     
  4. Charlieboy1985

    Charlieboy1985 Member

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    31
    thanks guys I will check both as it could be both. it's interesting because I can ride it at full speed for 20 minutes or so it's only when I stop and let it idle that it then refuses to rev. could be the needle slipping and could be the immobliser.

    should I check the ignition? will it be obvious if the antenna isn't great? if I can't tell how do I bypass the immobliser.

    thanks for your help again guys really appreciate it.
     
  5. Merlin

    Merlin Old School Biker

    Messages:
    2,305
    Rides:
    2007 TKR WRC 50
    Hmm, I doubt that it could be the needle, as that wouldn't let it rev at all - by all means check the circlip is there and secure though. Check the antenna where it plugs into the CDI unit, as the socket could be dirty or maybe have corroded pins. The CDI will be behind the front panel on immobiliser models and the antenna is a loop that goes around the ignition barrel. The only other things I can think of is maybe a partial heat seizure, does the bike still have plenty of power when it's running OK, or maybe weak reed petals in the inlet manifold.
     
  6. Charlieboy1985

    Charlieboy1985 Member

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    hi guys. so on further inspection I've found that the bike already has a bypass that is working properly. the spark seems weak and sometimes nonexsistant so I've pulled the cover to the fly wheel and the wheel and magnets are extremely rusty.

    could this cause weak intermittent spark? I'm sure it can just double checking. I've just ordered a flywheel pulling tool so will pull the wheel and clean it up and see if the spark looks any stronger.

    I will keep you guys updated. thanks for your help.
     
  7. Merlin

    Merlin Old School Biker

    Messages:
    2,305
    Rides:
    2007 TKR WRC 50
    Check the clearance of the pickup to the flywheel. You'll find a raised section on the flywheel that should be very close (but not touching) to the ignition sensor pickup on the engine body. There are adjustment screws to being it closer if needed. Check all multi-plug connections from the stator and flywheel to the wiring loom and multi-plugs behind the front panel as they can become rusty or work loose over time and this will drag the voltage down to the coil. Also check that the connections to the ignition barrel are clean and well connected. The ignition coil doesn't need the battery to make the engine run as it runs from the stator.
     
  8. Charlieboy1985

    Charlieboy1985 Member

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    hi thanks for your reply. does that mean that this isn't the problem? I will check the clearance and all the wires connections and give them all a clean if needed.

    but while the magnets (raised bits on the wheel) are so rusty can this be enough to weaken the spark alone? to the point where it dosnt start or starts but won't rev?

    thanks for your help.
     
  9. Merlin

    Merlin Old School Biker

    Messages:
    2,305
    Rides:
    2007 TKR WRC 50
    Even rusty magnets should generate enough inductance for the CDI loop to pick up the signal and generate a spark. My money is more on dirty electrical contacts, either at the coil end (underneath the seat bucket) or anywhere between the generator/stator and the ignition barrel. I'd also check that the spark plug cap is securely fastened to the HT lead, as some of them screw onto the cable and can work loose.
     
  10. Charlieboy1985

    Charlieboy1985 Member

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    31
    there is a small spark sometimes which is why I wondered if the rust could weaken the spark. I've tried a new plug, coil and lead including cap so it may be a connection as you say. I will have to have a good look and check all the wiring although it all looks like it's been cleaned recently possibly whoever put the new cdi on. the stator may have had it I'm thinking now. the leads connecting to the coil are showing 7 volts when cranking. not sure if this helps,

    thanks guys
     
  11. Charlieboy1985

    Charlieboy1985 Member

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    31
    hi guys I still need help. I've cleaned the magnet housing and the stator looks ok. I've checked and cleaned all the wires from the back to the front of the bike. I've tried a new coil and spark plug and the bike dies not have an immobliser. the bike ran perfectly up until last week.

    I'm sometimes getting a weak spark which will stop sparking even as I hold the start button. sometimes no spark at all.

    I'm lost now. new stator? or pick up?

    does the regulator effect the spark?

    thanks
     
  12. Tamiyacowboy

    Tamiyacowboy Pippa's Owner

    Messages:
    1,850
    Rides:
    Piaggio Skipper
    CDI is the possible fault then, BUT you need to ohms check the stator to make sure its not shorting out, you can look at a stator and it may seem all well and good but if that coating on the copper wire wears away and it touches the motor, or another worn copper wind in the coil it shorts out.

    you may need to find a buddy with a speedy and just pop his cdi out, plug it into your and test, if you find it runs up fine then the problem lays with a borked cdi unit .

    regulator takes the high voltage from the stator and converts it to a low voltage dc output. your stator produces an AC voltage and that voltage can be as high as 100+volts , that is way to much for a 12v system. the regulator is really two devices one is a bridge rectifier, it converts the AC voltage into a DC voltage, the next is a regulator it takes the new dc voltage and drops it to do a voltage we can use, in this sence a 12v supply. from here its sent to your running lights, dashboard and sometimes the cdi to power it , it also keeps your battery topped up via charging it .
     
  13. Charlieboy1985

    Charlieboy1985 Member

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    31
    I'm thinking about ordering a new stator first however I'm finding it hard to find my one as all the ones online have an extra black wire and mine only has 3 wires going to a connector. so in looking online to find one.

    I don't know anyone with a speedfight so may have to buy a new cdi as well.
     
  14. Merlin

    Merlin Old School Biker

    Messages:
    2,305
    Rides:
    2007 TKR WRC 50
    Check all connections, especially to earth (green wires) and the connections to the socket pins of the CDI unit. Replacement CDI units aren't expensive if yours is the little black unit with the white socket like my machine has. The stator generates an induction signal that gets amplified by the CDI and that pulse is what generates the low tension to the coil. If you try disconnecting the low tension wire to the coil and send 12v to it from the battery for a split second, as you remove the 12v the coil should send a spark to the plug. If you get that, the coil is OK. My guess is that the CDI is suspect.
     
  15. Charlieboy1985

    Charlieboy1985 Member

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    31
    thanks for your reply. for ease now I've ordered a new stator set and cdi to see if that solves the issue. I'm sure it will. it's a shame because the immobliser bypass cdi I have on the bike cost £80 so if its given up that's not great. the new one is a Chinese copy one just to see if it works if it does I will order a better one.

    I will keep you all updated. it's a nice little project although annoying at times
     
  16. Charlieboy1985

    Charlieboy1985 Member

    Messages:
    31
    hi guys. tried a new stator today and again sometimes no spark and rarely some weak looking spark. new chipkey cdi has been ordered so might solve the issue although I'm not holding my breath.

    If cdi dosnt solve it I may have to fully take the bike apart and split the whole wiring loom from top to bottom.
     
  17. Charlieboy1985

    Charlieboy1985 Member

    Messages:
    31
    hi guys. a new CDI solved my no spark issues. I started the bike yesterday and it cut out. I took the spark out and it had metal on it. I had no idea where it was coming from and after removing the head and checking the barrel and cleaning the metal away a few times I realised that the exhaust gasket was in terrible condition and crumbling which was being sucked into the engine. so I've scrapped of the old exhaust gasket and put a new copper one on and fingers crossed the bike is ready to go. I will be testing it later. I've got brand new panels for it too so it should look great aswell.

    thanks for your help and I'll post pictures at some point.
     
  18. Charlieboy1985

    Charlieboy1985 Member

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    pic 1
     

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  19. Charlieboy1985

    Charlieboy1985 Member

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    pic 2
     

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  20. Charlieboy1985

    Charlieboy1985 Member

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    pic3
     

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