HELP APRILIA SR50R!!!

Hi ive got an Aprilia SR50R, carb model, 2009. worked absolutely perfect apart from one of the exhaust studs ended up snappin, so instead of drilling it out we replaced the standard cylinder with a Stage6 Streetrace 70cc Cylinder kit. Changed the spark plug. and when we got it back up and running there was a message on the dash reading... "Err 0006"

Has anyone seen this before or know what might cause something like that?

 

Although I must mention the bike runs fine as it should, but it does seem like its a bit "mis-firey" at low revs but when the revs build up it stops

 

thermostat connected/in properly?

 

I should imagine so but why would that caudmse this

 

From an Aprilia Forum...

It seems to be a speedometer error.

Also:-

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?212992-ECU-Error-Codes-explained

It could also be a throttle position sensor malfunction. What I suggest to try is this. Turn the ignition on and don't touch the throttle at all, leave it for about 20 seconds, so that the ECU learns where no throttle is. Turn off the ignition and open the throttle fully then turn on the ignition for another 20 seconds, then turn the ignition off. The ECU should know where the throttle stops are then and the error should clear. That's what I had to do on my Peugeot 1007 when I had this problem and I don't think your Aprilia is much different with a 'fly by wire' throttle with sensors.

Check that the battery is fully charged too, as that can cause strange things with ECUs when a battery is going flat.

 

Thats Merlin, I will give this a go tomorrow, the main thing is the bike runs perfect regardless but I still want my dash working hahah

 

*Thanks

 

Cheers Merlin tried that but no luck, you are right tho according to the aprilia manual err 0006 is a tps connection problem, do you know where I could find the tps connections?

 

The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) on the Ditech SR50 is a dual track unit for safety purposes. Loss of a single track TPS on a fuel injected engine in traffic would result in no fuel delivery which could slow the scooter very quickly resulting in a dangerous situation.

If one of the tracks fails in a dual track TPS the engine will continue to receive fuel delivery but the dash will display a fault and a code will be stored in the ECU’s memory. You may also experience times where the engine will not want to come off of idle even with throttle movement. This is programmed into the ECU as a warning to get your attention as you are apparently ignoring the service light.


How it operates

The TPS receives 5v DC on the top pin (#1) from the ECU and a ground on the bottom pin (#4). The 3 alignment tabs should face to the back of the SR50, the 2 alignment taps face toward the front. The center 2 pins (2 and 3) are return voltages back to the ECU. 1 signal rises in voltage as the other falls in voltage with TPS / throttle rotation.

The way this occurs is the TPS has 2 resistive carbon tracks (shown in red blending to black to represent the voltage drops from 5v to 0v) one for each return voltage that have 1200 (1.2k) ohms of resistance. Also housed in the TPS assembly are 2 brush assemblies that continuously connect the varying 5v signal out to pins 2 and 3 (signal 1 and 2) shown as the blue and green track. There is virtually no resistance in either of those tracks but before the tracks connect to pins 2 and 3 they pass through 1000 (1k) ohms of resistance shown as yellow.

Because the TPS has a limited rotation, the brushes will never send 5v or 0v out to the return pins. 5v and 0v returning to the ECU is an indication of a shorted or open circuit which will also set a TPS code.

There is virtually no current flow in this circuit so the TPS doesn’t “burn up”. It is just a changing voltage signal for the ECU to use for fuel and ignition timing delivery. The carbon track should last a life time as they generally do in today’s automotive TPS units but where the pins connect to the carbon tracks in the SR50 TPS they easily fracture from vibration caused by harness movement. The harness when shipped from Aprilia is wire tied back to help with this failure but is not a cure. Any additional improvements to avoid harness vibration will lengthen the life of your TPS unit.

Associated TPS failure codes are as follows.

ECU 03 Wrong signal from throttle position sensors
ECU 04 Wrong signal from throttle position sensor 1
ECU 05 Wrong signal from throttle position sensor 2
ECU 06 Throttle position sensor 1 malfunction
ECU 07 Throttle position sensor 2 malfunction
ECU 08 Throttle position sensors malfunction

TPS Reset procedure

If the TPS or ECU is replaced, the TPS should be reset so the ECU can record the closed throttle return voltage as 0% opening.

1. Turn on the ignition.
2. Unplug the 4 wire TPS wiring connector for atleast 10 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition off.
4. Plug the TPS connector back in.
5. Turn the ignition back on, wait until the dash has booted up completely.
6. Firmly open the throttle from the handgrip all the way and release to a closed position.
7. leave the ignition on and initiate diagnostics and clear codes.
8. Turn off the ignition.
9. Turn the ignition back on, enter diagnostics and check for any TPS codes.


is that any help to you mate found site with more info on it than that if you want it . unless you have already searched and found it yourself

 

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?189636-Understanding-the-inside-of-the-TPS

 

Right this has been running fine for two days all of a sudden it started spluttering then cut out, started up again was spluttering but not going anywhere atall then it cut out again... Then wouldnt start again?

 

is there fuel getting there m8 has it got a spark?

 

Ye fuel there think coil is the problem, ey sub the thermostat has got a loose connection what would this cause?

 

not sure, was just a guess cause that's the only electrical thing you touch when putting a new cylinder on

 

Its pissing me off now after leaving it over night it kicked up first time but tried to take it for a ride and started spluttering/missing again then cut out and wouldnt start again, anybody got any ideas?

 

sounds like your mixture is weak? or there's crap in your carb.. check the plug colour and drain the float bowl into a small container, see if any shit comes out

 

It could be that but if it was crap stuck in the carb/pipes it wouldnt of started again after leaving it, it cant be a jetting issue because it was running fine for two days after fitting the new cylinder

 

The engine could be flooding with an over-rich mixture, like leaving the choke on all the time - this can cause it to bog down and stall. If the engine floods, then leaving it allows the fuel to evaporate then it will start up again.

Does this sound anything like your problem and is the spark plug blacker than a black thing, with black things sprinkled on top?

Edit: just a thought, I wonder if the thermostat connection controls the choke on this bike, as the dash is all digital wizardry, so the ECU may be using the thermostat sensor to control the choke. You said that connection was loose so that may be a clue.

 

Yes this sounds like the exact problem, this is what I thought but I could not get my head around why it would suddenly start flooding? It can not be the jetting because it was running fine previously, I did unplug the choke and plug it back in about 10 minutes before this first happened, do you think the choke could be sticking on?

 

It's certainly possible. Check and repair the thermostat electrical connection then turn your attention to the choke. If it's the electrical variety, I would take it off, make sure that the choke jet is clear and clean, then dab a tiny touch of oil onto the choke slide before putting it back in. Then check the electrical connections to the choke as they may not be making a clean connection.

It may be that the ECU needs to be reset, as yours is an all singing, all dancing one and un-plugging the choke may have confused it or mucked up the settings.