Front brake not working on a Honda XR125 L3

Discussion in 'Bike Chat' started by JamesNRG, Feb 26, 2010.

  1. JamesNRG

    JamesNRG New Member

    Messages:
    201
    Rides:
    Piaggio NRG Extreme
    Hi there,

    We've had problems recently with the front disc being semi-locked on. The bike would be suddenly hard to wheel, and then it would sometimes be fine, mostly after riding, Today, the bike would'nt go past 20-30mph even in 4th when it should be doing 60+ after a 2 minute ride (literally) you could hold your hand 5-10cm from the disc and it was HOT.

    Today, we drained all the old fluid and put some new Dot4 in the Resivior or w/e it's called. and now when we tried to bleed/drain the liquid ot just stayed in the resiviour thing, and the brake lever has no restrain on it AT ALL! as like a mountain bike brake was unclipped, hard to explain, and obviously the brake doesn't work, When riding it today the acceleration was ALOT better, using only the gearbox and rear brake to slow down so when the bike was first bought it was obviously locked on now and again.

    Has anyone got an idea what this could be?

    Info:

    Bike: Honda XR125 L3
    Year: 2003
    Mileage: 44,000km :yahoo:
     
  2. MiNoR cOnFuSiOn

    MiNoR cOnFuSiOn Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,276
    Rides:
    et2 monster
    well, you dont know how to bleed brakes obviously... the resivoir could be at fault (possibly why it wont bleed) but more than likely its got fucked pads and there sticking on.

    get a pipe (about a foot long) put it on the bleed nipple.. holdit vertically. now loosen the bleed nipple and GENTALLY squeeze the brake lever about a quarter of the way in in rapisd sucession.... should make lots of bubbles appear in the rez from the bottom and eventually fluid will come out of the pipe at the top. the EASY way of doing this is to have a length of pipe all the way from the nipple up to the resivoir... then fill the res (keep it topped up) and just leave the bike wiht a cable tie round the break... the fluid wont come out of the pipe as its higher than the res.. self bleeding system
     
  3. cheap vespa

    cheap vespa New Member

    Messages:
    68
    Befour anything,check the piston and bore for scoreing and corrosion.It should be a nice silver colour with no corrosion.As to bleeding do as Minor says.If that dosent work then lock the bleed nipple off,make sure theres enough level in the resovior and pump the brake til pressure is felt,hold the brake in and open the nipple(you will feel the lever go slack,thats normal)keep the lever down and lock off the nipple.then repeat.If it still dosent pressure up then the master cyl is goosed or you have a leak.

    Paul
     
  4. JamesNRG

    JamesNRG New Member

    Messages:
    201
    Rides:
    Piaggio NRG Extreme
    No pressure is building up and nothing is coming out of the bleed valve or even the brake line at the caliper if disconnected so im guessing the master cylinder is a gonner?
     
  5. MiNoR cOnFuSiOn

    MiNoR cOnFuSiOn Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,276
    Rides:
    et2 monster
    no, you need to fill the line befor it will squirt anything out.. fluid wont travel down a pipe that small if its blocked at one end (weve all held a straw full of drink wiht our finger on the top) this is what the rez doesm then as you pump the piston inside the rez pumps some fluid down.. if theres no fluid there or partially fluid it will just compress the air and do nothing.

    put the brake line back on... cable tie the brake lever on and loosen the bleed nippe... go make a tea and watch some simpsons, then come back and check on the res level, top up if ness.... you should have some fluid out of the nipple by this point. if not replace the res...
     
  6. JamesNRG

    JamesNRG New Member

    Messages:
    201
    Rides:
    Piaggio NRG Extreme
    Thanks for your info, sorted it now, Squirted aload of WD40 in the Caliper piston thing (Behind the pads) but alll back together and seems all good. :yahoo:
     
  7. cheap vespa

    cheap vespa New Member

    Messages:
    68
    You still need to dismantel the piston and clean it,the problem will reoccur.

    Paul
     
  8. JamesNRG

    JamesNRG New Member

    Messages:
    201
    Rides:
    Piaggio NRG Extreme
    The thing was a barn find, was sitting in a barn for a few years, was the Vauxhall garage owner W.J Kings bike. If its working which it is, we'll leave it for the time being, no point trying to rectify a problem if its all a-okay. When it comes back we'll strip it :good:
     
  9. MiNoR cOnFuSiOn

    MiNoR cOnFuSiOn Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,276
    Rides:
    et2 monster
    no, youve had a tool set 5 mins and are already giving out duff advice and ptting peoples lives at risk.

    brakes are the only thing's that keep you alive on a bike. youve basicly got a set to bleed out and not up to the same pressure as befor. if they siezed on once and all youve done is get out the fluid and re bleed them they WILL sieze again.. it didnt happen for no reason... why are you now messing wiht other peoples bikes?
     
  10. Stig

    Stig Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,462
    Rides:
    EXUP1000
    as said, it needs a total strip. Once the piston is out remove the piston seal and give the recess a proper clean behind the seal. Usually grime accumulates behind the seal and pushes the piston out. Over time it stops the piston returning a bit at a time and slowly makes the piston bind on the disk....slowly getting worse.
    AND if the discs been as hot as you say due to binding (reduced speed), theres a good chance that the disc may be slightly warped. You'll feel this as a pulsing when you feather the lever after the calipers been rebuilt. Thats one that'll need replacing
     
  11. Ciaran

    Ciaran Active Member

    Messages:
    1,804
    Whilst your at it get a master cylinder repair kit, get the caliper seals and pistons, new disc and new pads.

    It's probably scored to shit and half way throught he caliper.
     

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