hows it going chaps? picked up an et2 earlier was tossing some ideas around here: http://modernvespa.com/forum/topic56851 so i reckon ill start it and end up with somthing close enough to whats in the youtube video. then ill tune it. I have a DR evo 70 kit for it but it wont be going on for a while. planning to run it with a laser x pro and work from there but thats a while away yet. It will be a slow enough project with the cash flow i can put in and the fact ive never gone further then changing a variator before. so twill also be fun for me. look forward to giving updates
focused on a crack and a spot of rust today and i have to say im quiet happy witht he results. the rust as it was after wed attacked it with the dremels wirebrush and sandpaper. ryan dremelling the rust off the underside of it. the finished product. I really like how this turned out as when i get some paint on it, you wont be able to tell anything ever happened to it
could have spent an hour nocking that back to shape so you only needed a tiny skim of filler.. ive done many of these on my frame now.. horible twisted mess of dents (and i keep finding more) ah well, nearly there.. keep it up m8.
boith my side pans were an inch further in than they should have been (as in full of filler) the front indicator corner was inside out (that was a fucking pain) and the entire front was rippled, the sides/belly are rippled and thew rear had a dent.. nearly smooth gotta love metal scoots.. the plastic boys have no idea what body work is LOL i could have had this bike painted and built months ago if it wernt for the metalwork (well, and the weather)
I know what you mean minor, the front right legsheild has a very deep 5-6 inch dent and ive not been able to get it out so far, as long as it is done by marchish in time for the scooter rally season ill be happy.
big hammer and a cheapo dolly set from machine mart (Around a score) will SERIOUSLY come in handy.. cant just hammer it back to shape, you need to support the opposit side.. also heating and quickly cooling metal will make it shrink/grow if done correctly get on google and type "pannel beating" (obvious i know~) theres a wealtho of old knowledge out there thats just not taught anymore.. i was taught by my dad from a verry young age luckily.. cant even go and learn the trade in college anymore as they just dump new pannels on things and smack them full of filler (nothing like the old days where if you could spend 5 min's filling somthing with lead or 4 hours beating it to shape you would fucking well beat it to shape!!) the longer you spend on it and the less filler in there the better, yes the finnished product will be the same inevitably but 1, you will know its bodged and 2, it wont come back to haunt you in a year or two when shit starts cracking or rusting like mad.. remember filler CAUSES rust underneith, it only makes things worse!! oh and whatever you do dont forget the zink primer on any bare metal befor ANY othe primer/paint.
that might be a problem so because my mate who was helping me out with it just slapped the filler straight onto the bare metal, is there any way to rectify this or would i just be better leaving it as it is until it cracks off and then doing it right or what?
nononononono,,,, bear metal, then filler (as youve done) then cover all the exposed metal areas with etch primer, you should really skim the entire bike in filler and remove 99% of it to leave a NICE flat, better than showroom smooth pannel to paint. stock piggy paint REALLY is shit when you look at it (as is most oem paint, look at the orang epeal in any car...) no pride these days.
Parents have provided me a budget of about €300 to tune this for christmas. (bout £270) Will a laser x pro fit onto an et2 with the sideskirt removed?
hey bud... et2s are the shit.... ive got a gianelli reverse... i had to remove the plastic skirt for it to fit... occasionally it hits... bit only if i hit a big bump hehe... not sure what the lazer looks like... but im guessing at minimum youll have to remove the skirt. good luck mate... if you get it looking good (and it goes fast) then youll def turn a lot of heads btw... ive done a bit of painting in the past... i agree with minor... youll need an etch primer on bare metal before painting... this means the primer will bite into the metal, and will also stop it rusting.
so ive gone and priced bits online from a couple of retailers and basically outlined all the money im going to spend on tuning the engine. kit - DR evolution (bought) exhaust - €140 laser x pro variator - €60 Malossi mul-tivar Gear up - €60 Stage 6 jets - €15 stage 6 jet box rollers - €30 3 sets, malossi total cost bar the DR kit: €305 is there anything wrong with this setup or anything i should be changing before i go ahead with ordering this stuff?
to update the project, bodywork is going very slow and i havent done much to warrant an update or pictures, pulled the carb today and unfortunately its only a weber 12mm, so add a 17.5 carb to the shopping list should be ordering shit this week.