Elystar 150 EFI / Immobilizer Bypass?

Hi all,
A very rare owner of a 2003 Peugeot Elystar 150 EFI here in the United States. Apparently soon after I bought it way back in 2003 the company that imported them was banned from selling any more in the USA, so I'm stuck with sort of an odd-ball scooter and no place that knows how to service them.

This has only 540 miles on it (yeah, really) and it's just been sitting in the garage because it never ran quite right, but at least it ran. Now it will not spark. It does turn over, but I've checked for spark and nothing (I assume if the red 'lock' light is on, it will never spark, correct?)

Now I'm facing the issue that the immobilizer (I think) is shot. I've went through all of the diagnostics I can, new battery, spark plug, coil, checked the wiring for any cracks.

I've read through so many forums, always hoping that maybe it was some easier issue to address, but I've tried it all and have had zero results.

Referring to the manual I find at:
https://scootergrisen.dk/scooterhjemmeside/download/peugeot_elystar_servicemanual.pdf

The LED diagnostic signal results in:
"Refit the diagnostic plug loop or check the interface wire between the immobiliser and the ECU"

Well I've unplugged and plugged it a number of times. I've checked the resistance on the antenna. The Red-key LED diagnostic indicates it recognizes two keys (the only two I have)

I really don't want to throw this looks-like-new scooter in the trash, but I may just have to.

My immobilizer is marked:
Magneti Marelli
IMM006.02
242 02
12V =

But I cannot find any bypass devices available online that would replace this IMM006.02.

If you are aware if such a thing exists and can point me in the right direction I would be very grateful.

Thank you so much!

-John

 

Hi john and welcome to the scooter shack.

aye peugeot immobilsers are known to be fiddley buggers ......... to what i have heard on the grape vine ( interweb ) the 125cc immobo bypass unit also works with the 150cc its not gods word but a lot of other mentions push the 125 bypasser as the best bet

 

Thank you so much for the reply!

I think the bypass units I've seen for the 125 all say "not for injection" models. I can't quite understand why there would be a difference on the immobilizer on a fuel injected model.

I'll look closer at those, thank you!

hank

 

You're going to have to be meticulous here.
You need to go through every multi-plug connector on the bike.
Clean every brass terminal pin you can get to.
I'm betting that due to the fact that it has been sitting for years (inside a garage hopefully?) some of the terminals have started to corrode, enough to give a false connection, regardless of appearance.
If you have a dremmel type of tool, grab a small wire brush fitment and start by cleaning the cdi connector pins both in the cdi side and plug connector side.
The bike hasn't done the mileage for the components to start failing, unless of course it's been stored outside in all weathers.
I'm wondering if the "loop" connector is just a piece of wire, no other resistors in the cap.
Do a continuity test on it, just the loop, not connected to anything, maybe just those pins need cleaning or tightening up.
But either way, I'd start at the front and work my way back through the bike.

 

@Stevep Thank you for taking the time to reply, I greatly appreciate it.

I will take the time to go through every connector and clean it like you recommend. It has been covered, in a garage, but yes, given the amount of dust it still collected, having corrosion on some of the connectors is certainly a possibility.

I will try that in the next days and hold out hope that maybe, just maybe this will help and I'll follow back up with the results.

And the "loop"/diagnostic connector looks to be just that, a piece of wire. I've tested that for continuity as well but will have a close look at all of the multi wire connectors.

Thanks!!

-John

 

Might also be the fact that because it's stood for so long, and I'm only presuming the battery went flatter than flat?, the system might need re-programming completely.
The manual you linked to shows how to do that, if I read it correctly.
Problem with diagnostics is that when one part throws up a fault, it can lead to others when that bit is corrected again. It can be a vicious circle.
Interface wire between the immobiliser and ecu......................hmmmm..................wiring diagram......................

 

@Stevep Oh yes the battery has been dead for years. About 5 or so years ago I bought a new battery, spark plug, it wouldn't spark and I just didn't get the time to look into it further so it was shoved into the corner of the garage.

The only "reprogramming" I see is to program the keys. I did that with the red, black, red thing, and the LED indicator when using the red key does flash twice to indicate it has two keys programmed.

I couldn't find any info on how (if possible) to sort of "reset" the entire thing. Is that a thing?

I was just out in the garage and started to clean the wiring connectors, I'll take my time, still hopeful!

The results I have been seeing are:

Phase 1: System Status
Lights for 2 seconds: Immobiliser not programmed
Lights for 0.5 seconds (Immobiliser programmed) <-- this happens, seems promising.

Phase 2: Diagnostic
Does not light: No fault detected
Lights 1 to 4 times for 0.5 seconds Fault detected <-- lights up 1 time

Phase 3: Starting enabled
Does not light: Starting enabled <- the goal
Light stays on Starting not enabled <- what it's doing right now

End result is:
No diagnostic plug loop or faulty immobiliser/ECU link.
Refit the diagnostic plug loop or check the interface wire between the immobiliser and the ECU.

So if it really is just a wiring/connection issue, I'll keep at this and pull the whole thing apart to check every inch of the wiring. I certainly can't make things any worse

 

Don't know if this old post will help but it does mention the need for the loop in the diagnostic plug. See last post by Snappaz
http://www.scooterhulp.com/general-...eprogram-reset-peugeot-elystar-efi-print.html

 

Also check the 15a fuse for continuity and cleanliness.
https://scootergrisen.dk/scooterhjemmeside/download/peugeot_elystar_servicemanual.pdf

 

Thank you for the replies @gilburton!
So far I have:
- Taken apart all of the connectors to clean them as best as I can. They all look in great shape but still sanded them a bit to be sure.
- Tested for continuity between wire connectors by looking at the wiring diagrams and what wires go between the CDI and the Immobilizer
- Confirmed that the ground connections to the CDI and Immobilizer are indeed grounded
- Checked the resistance of the antenna, double checked/tested the fuses.
- Confirmed the loop connector is fine as it has continuity between the two points that it connects to.
- Verified that when the key is turned on it completes the circuit that would power the immobilizer so that I know the immobilizer is getting power.

Argh!

I'll keep at it for a little longer, it just feels like the immobilizer might be dead, and not sending any signal back to the CDI.

Who knew this stuff could be so complicated.

Thanks to all that have replied before, it gives me some hope still, but I'm running out of things to try.

 

Thank you again to everyone for their assistance. I've tried everything possible, cleaned and checked over every wire, tested continuity and still the same result.

If the ECU/Immobilizer are bad and I replace both of these, would there be anything special to do once these new components are installed?

Simply insert the master key and try to start it?

 

this is the problem it'S still actual ?