Elyseo 125 Carb

As some will know been havin issues with my Elyseo brother fixed it for me but after riding it around today it cut out, It would restart but only if you are heavy on the throttle and if you went off the throttle it would die.. It has a bigger carb with a manual choke. Brother just says to go back to a standard carb with auto choke. Ive looked around and cant find a Elyseo carb only Peugeot Sum Up carbs.. Does anybody know if the Elyseo 125 carb and the Sum Up 125 carb is the same or could somebody point me to where i can get a new carb?

 

found one here ( france ) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/1220...=1006964&device=c&campaignid=707291931&crdt=0
also could try here again its stating mikuni carb and yeah looks just like the sum up carb to :http://www.peugeotscooterspares.co.uk/spareparts/7661/peugeot elyseo 125 1998-2004?uid=0


looks like a mikuni type flat top was used on those 4t motors

 

The more I look at other carbs, The more I think the one that is on there is standard with a manual choke on but the choke cable is welded! The one thats on there is a Mikuni, If I can somehow confirm the Sum Up carb is the same, I can get a carb for £20 instead of paying the high prices lol

 

Dont know where you pulled tha price from Peugeot dealership said a new carb would be £140 + 30 days to get one in. Ive stripped the carb though and cleaned it all out, The diaphram thingy isnt split and seats properly, the jets have been cleaned out, The float is working as it should so Im just going to try find a petcock and replace the fuel lines, change the spark plug and cap and do a service to see if that helps. Theres no air leaks on the manifold and the air box is on proper. It starts up but you have to rev it high to keep it running, it wont idle at all and if revs get too low it just dies

 

check that foam filter buddy could be really clogged up ?

maybe see if the idle screw is not leaking or bust. sounds unusual to have to have throttle opened just to get it to run. and sounds like its getting starved some where maybe and i would go direct to the airfilter being highly clogged ( some folks just never clean them so years of dirt n grime just build up to a point they are fully caked up, i would drop it out wash that sucker n re-oil it)

with airbox off check what sorta gapping you have on that throttle slide and see if it opens and closes, check the slide for scratches showing its binding up some where

maybe see if an idle adjustment while running will allow throttle to close down and then idle over

 

Could be the air filter I guess last week half a tank of petrol leaked out of the airbox so im guessing that petrol could be clogging the filter up? Ill take it out and clean it anyway or ill see if the car spares place has any foam element stuff so i can make a new one for it. Ill try get a video of what its doing when the battery is charged as video will be better than tryin to explain whats going on

 

just wash it buddy.

very warm water with a double helping of fairy liquid, give it a real good scrunching wash to get all the crap out of it ( you be suprized of the colour that comes out ) then give it a couple good rinses in cold water to get the left over soap out, pop it in the airing cupboard for a good day and night , make sure its totally dry fella.

if you aint got no foam filter oil the usual two stroke mixing oil will do till you can get your mits on some , give it a half decent splug of oil ( wear gloves) then work it into the sponge filter and fit into place...... jobs a goodun and ready to try out. no mixing oil ? you can run it dry but i would try get hold of some oil in the long run then keep ontop of the filtering and give it a good clean every couple to four months

i see it like this, its a possible saviour of a shelling out £25 quid for a new carb at this point and if its the filter your gonna be £25 quid up in pocket and not having all that shizzle that comes getting carb fitted and then re-tuned to more again

 

changed the air filter while I was doing the plug (foam element + oil is only £10 from car spares place) its not the air filter. I took a video of what its doing ill upload it in a bit but I think im just going to shell out the money for a carb and hope for the best if that doent fix it im scrapping it and calling it quits

 

Video of what is happening -

 

recheck that diaphram fella , its got the oomph to fire over just struggling hard, i would nail it round the carb and possible diaphram damage

did the diaphram look nipped or pinched when you checked it , did you really look hard for any tiny splits in the crease lines round the seals area .

did you blow through all the passages in carb possible the choke passage is blocked from gunk ? choke is not seating fully or sticking, if diaphragm was ok in your eyes i would do a passage clean thin straw and a good lung full of air ( wear safey goggles so you dont shoot crap in your eye and end up in A&E ) blow all the passages clear ie pilot jet - main jet - choke loop )

 

Diaphram looked fine, brother walked me through that bit on facetime ive cleaned it all out properly the only thing i noticed was that the black tubular slide? that is under the diaphram doesnt move when throttle or choke is moved, only the slide where the inlet is.. Ill probably just get a cheap carb with autochoke tbh this is beyond what i can do and if i carry on ill end up putting a rag in the tank and liting it up lol

 

that diaphragm slide only opens when engine is running buddy. you can see this happen if you have someone else start the bike and throttle up and you view the slider through the open airbox side ( airbox removed )

forget a normal carb where you twist throttle and a cable lifts the slide up. in your carb ( we call em CV carbs ) the idle and pilot jets are the same. but the diffrence is the butterfly valve.

when you pull the thottle to open the butterfly it uncovers a small hole, the vacuum in the carb draws through this little hole and as it does this the main jet needle and slide move upwards, the more you open the butterfly valve the more vacuum is made and the higher the needle slide raises sound all techincal but its a very simple way and uses just the vacuum created in the carb to open the main jet needle and the rpm to raise

have a gander at this video buddy to get an idea whats happening in your carb as you start bike on choke, then close choke and pilot jet activates, then you roll on the throttle to create a vacuum pressure to lift the diaphragm and engage main jet, notice how the diaphragm is a sealed area, if theres a leak here the main jet needle will not lift as effectively unless a higher more powerful vacuum is created ie full throttle ( the syndrome your bike is having )

 

yes carbs are a pain in the rear a CV carb can confuse someone thats so used to a spring n cable slide carb, but once you know how they work everthing sorta clicks into place hence why i keep mentioning the pots blowing out and that seal is perfect on the diaphragm

you could just check on a cable slide carb but its more money buddy, lets try fix what you have and get you back on the road again without spending an arm and leg and having to install a slider and jet it to motors need

 

cut the stupid choke cable off so you can have the carb away from the bike completely. Strip it completely down and clean it THOROUGHLY as @Tamiyacowboy has already told you. There should be some of those small straws in the top draw of my black toolbox in my workshop.

Drill a new whole where the dickhead before you welded that cable on and thread a bolt through from the brakes of your push bike, get a cable from wilko for £1 and bobs your uncle youve got a new choke cable that will actually work.

 

you could go and grab a manual choke leaver kit for the carb, dump that cable yank job and fit the manual leaver style , or do as big bro says cut and drill a new hole fit new cable and route it to the bar leaver.

never come to my mind the bodge choke job on your carb could be on key factor, but as big bro says, give it a really really good blow through with the straw ( you can also use canned air if need) , dont forget the vacuum line in top of the diaphragm section to a really good blow out.

when seating it all make sure 100% the diaphragm is seating nice , double/triple check. if you need wait till big bro comes back to uk soil and sit and watch him yank the carb and do his wonder work, ask questions and soak up all that he teaches you ( sometimes it better to see things deconstructed by another while you watch , you learn more that way and pick up plenty of little tips and hints ).

he may seem like a big black bear just wanting to tear you a new Ahole but deep down you both have something in common and thats motorcycles and you can learn a lot just watching him do his thing and always ask a question to why he does it that way or another and the difference in the methods he uses. ( found giving the black bear a bacon butty just before work starts a good ice breaker lol but my blackbear was my very very good best mate )

 

Brother fitted another carb from a Elystar today and its doing exactly the same thing still

 

may wanna give it a leakdown test / compression test see if your loosing a bit and thats why it needs the high fuel rate flow to keep it running.

 

Just finished doing just that not good news 50psi looking at parts its going to cost more to rebuild it than it would to replace engine with a used one so look like im going that route now

 

drop an elystar in it buddy

 

thats the plan if i can find one that is carb model and isnt £400+ every engine we found so far is £400+ and thats with 30,000km or more on them either way its got to wait now until end of january until i get paid sick of not having my own bike to ride now